This is odd, there are similarities to soo many in this one. You are right Jodi and I sure most have better conditions for their babies. I try to keep them happy...haha! Would the actual size of the bloom have any indication? These blooms are pretty petite I would say...not mini, but not huge like my previous 'Red Lions'. Larissa, I've never had a Red Lion with streaks either, but Kristi has a beautiful one up there...this is so odd isn't it? Maybe I just want so much for it to not be just another Lion...haha! I wish I could capture the deep coloring because my camera makes it look so much lighter than it really is. If it will ever stop raining, I am going to try to snap it outside. Maybe I will just take Ryans advice and call it an original Frank Production...I like that! Thanks for all the input ya'll. :-) -Frank

Sounds like, if I'm hearing you right, we're talking about two different things here. A shallow well (Also called a dug well, or a groundwater or watertable well) is actually dug. Literally a lined hole in the ground, usually about 30' to 50' deep. The quality of the water is sometimes not so good. A drilled well is another thing entirely. A drilled well is drilled down by a big rig they bring out to your property, several hundred feet deep, below bedrock. Their prices usually are so much per foot until they hit bedrock, and another price per foot after. A friend who recently had a new well drilled paid $4000, another friend payed $6000. There is no way to know how much you will spend, because there is no way to predict at what depth they will hit water. The friend I mentioned, they had to drill to 600'. Unfortunately, in many (if not all) states, shallow dug wells are no longer permitted legally. All wells have to be deep-drilled. (However, I know plenty of people who still have their shallow dug wells. Grandfathered-in, as it were.) We have a old dug well in our new old house, still functioning. The water isn't great, but we don't drink it.

1) Technically, after the third mow...which will be a while. That'll be too late for most pre-emergents to catch spring weeds. You could use Tupersan (Siduron) in spring when the forsythia bloom, however. It won't impact the grass, but it only lasts about a month and doesn't have an extremely wide umbrella of what it stops from sprouting. 2) March or April 2016 is great if you want. Done much later, any adjustments will generally have to wait for fall (I really dislike stressing summer lawns). 3) It depends on your locale. That's not completely unreasonable, but I would continue to look around to see if I can find it cheaper. See 4 and 5 below. 4) I paid $14.25 per 50 pounds this year...in eastern Pennsylvania, which is soybean and corn country (as in there's acres of soybean and corn within spitting distance of my house). I also use a grain mill way out in the boondocks, so prices tend to be a little cheaper just because of that. 5) Not necessarily. While corn once a year is a help in terms of a gentle fungus protection (and to diversify the microbes a bit), sticking with Milo isn't a problem if it's cheaper for you. My heavy hitter is soybean meal due to the low cost locally--it beats Milo's price by a mile. If it were the other way around, I'd use Milo instead. Rough app levels are as follows (#/K = pounds per thousand square feet because I'm lazy): Alfalfa: 10-20#/K (the limiter here is the growth hormones, not the nitrogen...this is a weak nitrogen feed, but a good addition in early September to encourage root growth). Corn: 10-65#/K. The lower end helps with fungal protection, the upper end actually provides a feeding for the lawn, and there's no problem using corn at this level--except for the expense, of course. 65#/K delivers about 1 pound of nitrogen. Cottonseed Meal: 15#/K. It's difficult to get up north, but the southerner's equivalent to soybean meal. Milorganite: 20#/K. This is higher than bag rate, but will provide 1#/K of N. This is also rich in iron and contains both fast and slow nitrogen, making it a great pick-me-up for the lawn in addition to feeding it over the long term. Oats, Rice Hulls, Most Other Random Grainy Stuff: 50#/K. Most grains will be around 2% nitrogen (about 14% protein) and are applied at 50#/K to feed at 1#/K of N. They can certainly be applied at lower rates to help organically condition a soil if you wish. Soybean Meal: 15#/K. My personal staple. This provides 1#/K of N.

I just don't see any warning signals at all for a scam. I am not sure many Americans are experienced with buying bank owned property but it certainly sounds like she has a realtor and a family that has some familiarity with home pitfalls. Dealing with a bank owned property is simply an odd situation. The realtor may not know the answers because the answers may follow no real pattern. She has toured the house several times and inspected the property that she is buying as is. Which is a far greater concern to me than a real estate attorney in a $35k transaction. While I will always advise someone to get an attorney, the time to get an attorney involved is before making the offer. At this point she is bound by the terms of the offer and the attorney isn't going to add significantly more value than a proper inspection and title insurance will (and will probably add less). Admittedly, I am not familiar with all real estate scams but setting up a title company, getting a realtor involved, forging documents to make yourself look like Bank of America and all the other things that need to happen for this kind of fraud, seem a little much for a $35k scam.