Thank you ja-gardener. That is pretty similar to where my very uneducated eye was going too; I know that the one branch is too low and has to come off, but I figured the stuff in the middle was more critical as it could effect the integrity of the tree. I'll let the lower branch on for another year or two. I am thinking that if it is carefully pruned as it matures it will end up with two to three main branches coming off the trunk. It was not perfect when we bought it, but not nearly so crowded! Other than taking off too very thin low limbs I've mostly let it go. It went in the ground nearly four years ago, but the first year ended up being terribly dry. We watered it diligently but it was stressed so I wanted to give it several years to make food for roots before taking anything off the top. This will help me start the conversation with the arborist and I'll see what he says. I might have him out to look at it before it leafs so he can get a good idea of the structure, then have him prune it this summer.

hand trowel ... dig 3 or 4.. 6 inch holes... AND FIND OUT IF THERE IS ANY MOISTURE AT DEPTH ... when i run irrigation on trees... i run it 6 to 8 hours on my sand ... because that is what is required with my engineered system of x gallons per hour... taking into account my sand... how did you come up with your number of hours??? and the way to find out.. is to dig the holes.. and discover how its working... you dont say how large the transplants are ... but if they are over 6 feet... you need to have the entire root mass planted dampish ... but not sodden.. for up to 3 years ... and it isnt surprising.. it appeared.. when the heat hit ... it has absolutely nothing to do with fert ... and as far as i am concerned.. you NEVER fert trees ... especially if you fert your lawn ... the tree will get/steal all it ever needs ... one might suggest that a soil test will tell you if anything is lacking.. i feel its much simpler to look around and see if trees... shrubs.. plants.. are thriving.. in general.. and if they are.. then the soil is good enough for your trees ... pic is you want more info ... ken

If you are are looking for a particular fall color go with a cultivator, but if you want a maple that is one of a kind and not a clone, go with a seed grown red maple. I have both and bought my seed grown red maple before i knew the difference and it took a few years before i realized it was not defective because of its yellow fall leaves :) As you may know, many/most red maples will not have red leaves in the fall. They are red maples because of their red flowers in the Spring. Both are good options in my opinion depending on what you want in a tree.

I will check... It's too early and cant remember last year's color change! The sugar maples are abundant here so you have to look carefully into the canopy to make sure you're not mistaking them. I will say that a red maple (no idea of the cultivar) is planted on a home down the street from me and it doesn't look that hearty/heathy... not a thick canopy of leaves and the color is not great (in the 3 years I've been here) - it's pale reddish/yellow color... nothing I'd want to plant. Anyhow, all this fuss over the a. Rubrum and i might end up planting something else altogether! Now I am thinking black gum, particularly Nyssa Tupelo Tower as it seems to be cold hardy and the narrower growth habit might actually be less overwhelming down the road... plus, the colors are supposedly very reliably beautiful every year... The spot is periodically wet (close to water table) and even in dry summers it's a moist spot. My understanding is that the Nyssa like moist (even wet) sites