>I want something that is hardy and somewhat resistant to disease- Maybe Crepuscule and new dawn?? Hi vlodom, I was just going through some similar decisions recently and rhonda in upstate SC convinced me to go with Crepuscle. She posted a picture of it growing at one year old that is incredibly enticing. Plus, it will do that well in less than ideal sunlight. And it has few thorns. Just a really nice rose, I think. I've been interested in New Dawn too. Someone has been working on me towards one of New Dawn's seedlings: Penny Lane. That one has really good shade tolerance, she said, and she loved its fragrance. I assume it will grow as well in the Piedmont as New Dawn will, though she was writing from Kansas. Some other rambling or climbing roses you might take an interest in: Madame Alfred Carriere, Dublin Bay, Red Fountain, Quadra, Laguna, Reve d'Or, Jaune Desprez, William Allen Richardson, Sympathie, Goldfinch, Creme de la Creme, Climbing Pinkie (especially the cultivar at the Antique Rose Emporium). If you'd really like a lot of bushiness as well as the ability to put out some long canes, then take a look at Ghislaine de Feligonde. It ought to mix well with Crepuscle too. Avoid Iceberg, including climbing Iceberg, if you want to try to avoid having to spray for blackspot on the east coast. I wanted Iceberg so much that I decided to give it a try anyway... but sure enough, all I'd read about it being more of a problem on this side of the country turned out to be correct. The best resource on the internet for investigating roses is HelpMeFind.com: http://www.helpmefind.com/rose/plants.php Good luck with your new house and yard! Best wishes, Mary Here is a link that might be useful: Crepuscle photo appears in this thread within Antique Roses Forum

You could. The only thing is that with slide bar showers, the water outlet is usually low on the wall (roughly waist high), where with no plumbing changes, yours will be up high. With the high outlet, your hose will attach to the outlet up high, then loop down, then back up to the shower head on the bar. You'd want to get as long of a hose that is practical. I can't think of seeing one longer than 7'. I'd recommend getting a 7' long piece of rope or string, tie or tape one end to the nipple up on the wall, and see how much range you get out of the 7' length. With a long hose, one other consideration is the low end of the vertical bar. In a worse-case scenario, if the main bather is short and only used the shower as a body wash, meaning the spray head was normally slid down low on the vertical bar, then I wouldn't want the hose to be so long that it came in contact with the floor tile. You shouldn't have that problem with the outlet up so high. If you go with a vertical bar, I prefer to mount the bar a few inches to the left or right of the water outlet. That allows the long hose to droop in a nice "U"-shape right up and flat against the wall.

I have two recipes myself - one with eggs and one without. I've only ever made the ones without egg, because that was how I was taught to make them. Has anyone made theirs with eggs who can tell us what the difference between them is? Tracey - the time before last that I went to make scones, I went in the fridge and saw that the kids had used up the last of the milk after I had gone to bed. So I took a chance and used evaporated milk and they came out fine! In fact, I'm going to make sure I keep it on hand just in case the mood strikes to make scones and the same thing happens. I usually use milk in mine because I'm trying to stay away from saturated fats, so I avoid cream whenever I can, altho I absolutely love it! I'm going to experiment and try using the fat free evap milk and see how they come out in comparison. Lisa

Please, elaborate a little more on how everything is tied in if you don't mind. Not questioning you just want to learn something I'm not familiar with. I'm assuming these are 5 ton coils and I see 3 on each side they are 7 1/2 ton coils, 3 per 20 ton condenser. so, 22.5 tons worth of evap capacity per 20 ton condenser. two 20 ton condensers total. condensers have a 6 cylinder semi-hermetic recip compressor in each with electric unloaders on one bank of cylinders. On the back wall in the pic is a junction box with a control transformer and relays in it. a.k.a my homemade twinning kit. I guess you could call this system twinned triplets. used one 2 stage heat, 2 stage cool digital stat. all fans run simultaneously on call for heat or cool. (set stat to energize G on call for heat as well as cool) fans run same speed for heat and cool by design so needing a lower fan speed for heat wasnt an issue. I would have to draw a schematic to explain how i wired it all up so ill just describe the sequence of operation... 1st stage cool energizes all fans, both condensers unloaded and opens 4 solenoid valves. (roughly 27ish tons feeding 30 tons of evap capacity) 2nd stage cool opens remaining two solenoid valves and loads remaining 2 cylinder heads. (40 tons feeding 45 ton total evap capacity) 1st stage heat energizes all fans first then back two furnace's burners. 2nd stage heat energizes front 2 furnace's burners. Supply duct runs thru ceiling above each coil and manifolds into a single large trunk duct in the attic above it. trunk duct runs into chapel attic to large round diffusers. Guys in our sheetmetal shop fabricated the duct. there is a normally closed sail switch in each supply duct just above the coils. R circuit from main control transformer is wired in series thru all the sail switches then to the stat. it was set up like this to sense reverse airflow. if one fan fails the sail switch on the failed unit will trip on backflow of air, shut the whole system down and energize a red LED on the stat's subbase. And did you say 2 have the heat exchangers removed? The heating load didnt require the use of the center furnaces but identical blowers are required for twinning so we just needed the fans and coils. they're basically just dummy furnaces. Church full of people in the mild central texas winters doesnt need much heat lol. the church's maintenance guy asked me to remove the heat exchangers and such so he could have spare parts readily available if needed. so we removed the HXs, gas valves and inducers out of em. we then patched the holes with insulated sheetmetal.