Plants wilt and die slowly when their roots become compromised. There are several causes of this: 1) Root strangulation. This is best prevented by proper root pruning when planting. If the plant is not too far gone, it might be rescued by digging and removing the soil. Then cutting any circling roots that may be strangling other roots. The roots need to be opened up. On larger plants, some of the top must be removed to compensate for the weak state of the roots. Any time the roots are exposed, they must be kept moistened. Roots that dry out will die. 2) Phytophthora Root Rot or wilt. This root rot is the major killer of rhododendrons and azaleas. It develops when roots are growing in wet conditions. The rot is more prevalent in warm summer conditions. Plants infected with crown rot caused by the oomycete, or water mold, Phytophthora have roots which become clogged with brown oomycete, or water mold, internally. The roots get blocked and the plant wilts and dies. There is not much of any cure for crown rot. Some varieties of rhododendrons are vulnerable (Chionoides, Catawbiense Album, Nova Zembla) and some are resistant (Roseum Elegans, Scintillation, PJM). Sphagnum moss and bark dust combined with good drainage seem to prevent crown rot, but do not cure it. 3) Drought. It may have simply dried out. If you plant rhododendrons or azaleas in late spring, it is very important to give them some extra water while they are growing new roots. Never let the soil completely dry out' it's best to keep the soil evenly moist. Too much water or poorly drained soil might be another explanation of sudden rhododendron or azalea death. Rhododendrons and azaleas have very fine, fibrous roots that are easily damaged by waterlogging, even for short periods of time. 4) Voles. Voles, also known as meadow mice, may have chewed on the bark and roots near the crown of the plant. Sometimes they chew all the way around the trunk and kill the inner bark, resulting in death of the whole plant. Keep mulch away from the trunk to discourage voles. 5) Bark Split. The bark may also split when there are wide fluctuations in temperature in the winter. Rhododendrons and azaleas may begin to come out of dormancy if late winter weather is warm; if a cold snap follows, bark injury is likely, especially in sunny, exposed sites. 6) Wilt and slow death can also be caused by juglone poisoning from walnuts. Plants wilt and die suddenly is usually caused by roots which are girdled by larvae of the Black Vine Weevil, Otiorhynchus sulcatus, Strawberry Root Weevil, Otiorhynchus ovatus, or Twobanded Japanese Weevil, Callirhopalus bifasciatus. Adult weevils feed on the leaves at night except the Twobanded Japanese Weevil which feed during the day. Specimens may be collected during the day or at night for identification depending upon the weevil. The major damage is caused by weevil larvae which girdle the roots and kill the plant. Larvacidal drenches may be used to kill them but are of limited effectiveness. Foliar sprays are very effective at controlling adult weevils when leaf notching starts. Foliar sprays are very effective at controlling adult weevils when leaf notching starts. Foliar sprays must be repeated until no adults emerge. Twobanded Japanese weevils are apparently resistant to carbaryl (Sevin), diazinon, and malathion. Orthene gives good control when applied as a foliar spray and drench. Since weevils can't fly and spend part of each day in the soil and part of each day feeding, you can paint the trunks with Tanglefoot to stop them, but make sure no branches are touching the ground. To answer your question, I think the plant is terminally ill, but would still hold out hope a little longer. You seem to understand the basics very well. Here is a link that might be useful: Rhododendron and Azalea Problems

Growing Tomatoes FAQ: What is blossom-end rot? How can I prevent it? Blossom-end rot is a disorder of tomato, squash, pepper, and all other fruiting vegetables. You notice that a dry sunken decay has developed on the blossom end (opposite the stem) of many fruit, especially the first fruit of the season. This is not a pest, parasite or disease process but is a physiological problem caused by a low level of calcium in the fruit itself. Symptoms BER, or blossom-end rot usually begins as a small "water-soaked looking" area at the blossom end of the fruit while still green. As the lesion develops, it enlarges, becomes sunken and turns tan to dark brown to black and leathery. In severe cases, it may completely cover the lower half of the fruit, becoming flat or concave, often resulting in complete destruction of the infected fruit. Cause Calcium is required in relatively large concentrations for normal cell growth. When a rapidly growing fruit is deprived of calcium, the tissues break down, leaving the characteristic lesion at the blossom end. Blossom-end rot develops when the fruit's demand for calcium exceeds the supply in the soil. This may result from low calcium levels in the soil, drought stress, excessive soil moisture, and/or fluctuations due to rain or overwatering . These conditions reduce the uptake and movement of calcium into the plant, or rapid, vegetative growth due to excessive nitrogen fertilization. Management Adequate preparation of the garden bed prior to planting is the key to preventing BER. Insure adequately draining soil in the bed by adding needed ammendments, maintain the soil pH around 6.5 - a pH out of this range limits the uptake of calcium. Lime (unless the soil is already alkaline), composted manures or bone meal will supply calcium but take time to work so must be applied prior to planting. Excess ammonial types of nitrogen in the soil can reduce calcium uptake as can a depleted level of phosphorus. After planting, avoid deep cultivation that can damage the plant roots, use mulch to help stabilize soil moisture levels and help avoid drought stress, avoid overwatering as plants generally need about one inch of moisture per week from rain or irrigation for proper growth and development. Once the problem develops, quick fixes are difficult. Stabilize the moisture level as much as possible, feeding with manure or compost tea is recommended by many, foliar applications of calcium are of questionable value according to research because of poor absorption and movement to fruit where it is needed but many have reported that foliar application of magnesium (epsom salts) can effect added calcium uptake. Other various suggestions consist of powdered milk, crushed egg shells tea, bone meal tea, Tums tablets, etc. but prevention is the key. Some recommend removing affected fruit from to reduce stress in the plant. BER should not be confused with fruit abortion or inadequate pollination although the symptoms may appear similar. The onset of BER occurs only after the fruit is well on it's way to development while insufficient pollination problems terminate the fruit while still quite small. Here is a link that might be useful: BER FAQ

Hornworms do not make a plant unusable. They reduce the foliage and the fruit. A plant can grow more and resume making food for humans. Trim off any areas that are really "eat up". This will reduce the number of open ended damaged areas where disease can enter. I would spray with Daconil to help with any disease organisms. You might want to add a bit of fertilizer with extra nitrogen (one time shot) to help add some foliage.

Green Tomato Hot Dog Relish Flavorful green tomato relish is the perfect relish for hot dogs and hamburgers, or stir some into your dressing for pasta or potato salad. Ingredients: •8 cups finely chopped (processed or ground) cored green tomatoes •2 cups finely chopped (processed or ground) peeled onions •4 bell peppers, part red, finely chopped (processed or ground) •1/3 cup pickling salt •2 tablespoons mixed pickling spices •1/2 teaspoon celery seed •1 clove garlic, chopped •2 1/4 cups white vinegar •1 2/3 cups packed light brown sugar Preparation: Combine the chopped vegetables and salt in a large stainless steel pan. Cover and let stand in a cool place (about 65° tF to 70° F) for 10 to 12 hours, or overnight. Pour the vegetables in a colander over the sink and let drain. Rinse with cool water and use your hands to squeeze out any excess liquids. Tie the pickling spices and celery seeds in a cheesecloth spice bag. In a large stainless steel or enamel-lined pan, combine the vinegar, the spice bag, chopped garlic, and the vinegar. Put the vinegar mixture over high heat and bring to a boil, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Add the drained green tomato mixture and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and boil gently, stirring often, for 1 hour. While the mixture is cooking, prepare the work area, canner, jars, and lids. See Preparing Jars for Canning and Boiling Water Processing. Fill hot, prepared jars and remove any air bubbles with a small plastic spatula, leaving 1/2-inch headspace. Clean jar rims and fit with lids and rings. Process in a covered boiling-water bath canner for 10 minutes. Turn off heat, remove the cover, and let jars stand in the hot water for 5 minutes. Remove to a rack to cool completely. Makes about 7 half-pint jars of relish. http://southernfood.about.com/od/picklesrelishes/r/r90712a.htm