Hello Mike, thanks for responding.ÃÂ The pond will be at least 3" thick all around, I've pre molded the chicken wire so that I can just slip it on once I do my first layer of mix (about 1/2" to 1" thick) then finish it with another 2" of the mix (to ensure coverage of the wire), and for added strength. The pond will be above ground and on short squat "feet" made of concrete. The reason's for using hypertufa; I love the rustic charm of it, it would still be lighter than making it out of all cement, and using perlite instead of vermiculite will give me a "granite" kind of look. ÃÂ I did a test run using the sandy dirt from my yard to try and figure out how much of my 4 ingredients I will need. I don't have a problem re-sealing it but is there a clear coat "paint" to use instead of sealer? ÃÂ Can I add another fiber and which kind for added strength?? ÃÂ How long would you guessti ate for total curing time?? I will be pitching a tent over it to keep it from direct sun. Can one of those odjob concrete barrel mixers be used to mix the hypertufa? Thanks for any and all assistance.

I wouldn't toss your SuperThrive out just yet... Personally, it's done me a world of wonders in saving some of the worst cases of dying plants (carnivorous and non) I've ever been through. I bought a rather healthy looking mongrel of a nepenthe about a year and a half ago and it was doing really well. Then it almost overnight was invaded with a dark reddish-orange blotching. Rust. Extremely common with nepenthe purchased from your average large supermarket or garden centre type stores. I'd been given conflicting answers and a lot of people didn't know how to diagnose or treat it. I'd lost two plants to it already, so I went on what I could and actually contacted the owners of several large greenhouses, a biologist and a few semi-famous (in our circles) authors on the matter. Using a combination of neem oil and powered sulfur, I managed to stop the infection in all of them. I'll get a shot of my worst victim; it's literally a stick, and I am not kidding you. Using superthrive, I was able to entice tiny green and healthy buds out of this 'stick' and I'm seeing the beginnings of recovery. Granted, I used many different natural chemicals and remedies, but I fully believe all working together caused this complete turnaround. I fully agree with what you are saying about your 'working' plants, if they're doing 100% there is not really a need to go mucking about their surroundings and possibly harming one of them. And yes, S.T. does smell like a malty, yeasty mixture. Like something you'd use to start fermenting your own beer. :)

but that leaf shows no damage from the bug that is on it ... does it???? except maybe some poop ... i do mind repeated questions .. that are the same as a post 3 down .. that is not cool ... if you arent keeping up.. why should i waste my time with giving the same answer over and over again ... and i hate the questions that are something like this" i want to propagate hosta.. please discuss the entire process from start to finish.. i mean really.. and while i am at it.. why dont i do your homework.. and carry you to school on my back.. and stay to spoon feed you lunch while i am at it ... you get stuck on something.. i will help.. but if you are too lazy to even do some basic research.. pshaw ... it would take me 2 months.. to clean my kitchen.. to be proud enough to show you a pick of it .. lol .. its very deep dark blue.. and it works.. because with the sliding door .... plus a window over the sink.. and south facing.. any other light color.. is nearly the Apocalypse .. you nearly needed a welding mask to go in there when the sun was out because its so bright ... ken

Hi Imgch: I am running out of the house but checked gw and saw your *please asap* request and thought you could use some support. I am not an expert but just finished my lighting plan and I can tell you it was the. hardest. part. of our new build to date....except now I am on paint but that's another post. I haven't read every post and skimmed your post as I am in a rush, but here are my thoughts. Ceiling height makes a difference. My ceiling is 9 feet and my kitchen is 15 x 13 l-shaped with an island. I used six 6-inch cans around the L and then one more can on the outside corner of the island. I also have 2 4-inch cans over the sink My architect was most unhappy and wanted me to only have four cans total. He thinks I am over lit. I couldn't get the link to work so please google *honu3421 please help with kitchen lighting plan* I ended up using the plan shown on July 1 at 2:11 pm of the thread. Due to framing, my cans are centered over the walkway. however, the cans over the sink along with under counter lights will provide good light at the counter. I also have a pendant in the corner of the L (no overhead cabinets there). For dining room, I have four 4-inch cans in the corners of the room. Not really a room as FR/DR and kitchen are open to each other. but the cans are basically centered on the outside of the dining table. 1. I would center the cans on the outside of your dining table and consider 4-inch as they will only be for mood or augmented lighting. They will not light the table. Your chandy will be your main dining light. 2. looking at traffic pattern, the way you have your dining table now looks like the best layout. 3. Cans on the left side of your island look good. I would try to add cans to the right side of your island. I am not sure how to do that - play around with symmetry keeping in mind shadows. 4. 3 pendants over island sounds like the ticket. I understand your angst but I think you have a pretty good plan. If you want the cans over the edge of your counter top, just be firm and without drama. Also, if you haven't already posted on the lighting forum you might do a cross post there. There are some really knowledgeable and generous folks over there. I hope I've been helpful. good luck!