Thanks you guys so much for weighing in. It is very helpful. Raehelen, the reason was to give myself some hard durable surfaces to put towel hooks on and not worry about the finish when wet towels hang on the wall. And as Lotteryticket mentions about stopping point, I found it difficult to find one. The other side of the partition wall seemed like a good quitting place, terminating at the cabinets. I also thought that it would connect the shower into the room more. But it looks too cold, when I put tiles up on that wall. Now, it seems logical to keep the tile in the shower area itself, contained. Thanks Lottery for the comment on the doors, I really like them a lot. The room is painted BM Horizon and it goes with the floor and the wood both. My neighbor liked the tan I had up better, but to me it had an aged Pepto Bismol tint. She didn't see it. My sample board showed none of that pink tinge, not at all. I was so bummed that I had to find a new color. QUESTION: With this bathroom I had trouble finding wall space for towels, so I purchased hooks and will plan on putting them just outside the shower door at the plumbing end. Do you think the finish will wear off the walls or damage the paint? It is BM Aura Bath and Spa paint.

Dedicated W/D closet is finished and yet provides emergency access: -45 degree angle hot/cold ball valve lever faucets replaced known-to-not turn-when- needed gated facets and all installed in Oatey wall faucet box -main house water intake pressure reducer added to lessen any whole house hammering. Water main ball valve lever placed in yellow placed for easy ID. -hot water heater drained and filled; water temp adjusted for hot -one closet water pipe replaced and both hot and cold pipes insulated well -new insulation placed between wall studs -fire-rated 5/8" dry wall cut with appropriate apertures and installed all the way to side walls then attached via screws to vertical studs inside floor trim - entire interior of closet (102"h x 36" w x 32"d) prepped and painted as well as closet door -fluorescent light bulb in ceiling light for longevity -new 4" diameter semi-rigid aluminum ducting (-new rigid wall duct for brief run to outside to new exhaust vent with (verified) louvered damper well above snow line -foam insulation around small areas of new exhaust vent to help secure it in masonry in addition to mason nails as well as add further weather insulation - existing 3 wire Grounded Neutral 120/240 volt electrical receptacle as well accessible dedicated 30 Amp circuit for ease of turn off Aside from plumbing, this was a DIY job. Our quote for a finished closet was $1000 excluding materials and painting (in addition to plumber charges). Main goals were to have finished back closet wall with water pipes as well as washer discharge pipe accessible without having to tear apart the wall. Electrical panel easily accessible. Also to provide better winterization for overall W/D function, fire wall retardant, proper dryer venting all appearing seamless with the adjacent closet walls. Thanks for your tip weedmeister. It led to an eventual solution.

Flymom, I know we all have budget constraints, but lamps are worth a little extra to get good ones. Anything of real quality under $175-200 is very hard to find. I'm constantly nagging everyone to spend a little more on two things that they want to cheap out on - light fixtures, and picture framing. It's like buying a beautiful dress at Saks, and wearing it with junk jewelry and cheap shoes. Do it the other way 'round. A black T-shirt dress from Marshall's and shoes from Saks with one really good gold bracelet is far better. Think of those lamps as the good gold bracelet.

Thanks guys :) Here's a photo of the dresser: (wi-sailorgirl, can you believe I'm doing something so vintage?!?!?!? It's so not my usual style... but this is the second bath: it's the general household-use bath but ALSO my teen daughter's bathroom. And she REALLY didn't want sleek and modern!) I don't have a photo of the sides of the drawers, but they are mostly still raw wood, except the person who painted it last slopped the maroon paint around the edge onto the dovetail joint. I guess I will try to sand that off and then just paint the fronts. sailorgirl, the lower two drawers won't have glides, they'll remain as-is, with just old-fashioned wooden guide rails. The top two drawers need to be cut back pretty severely, and their center rail removed for the sink, so those two WILL have new, undermount glides installed. I'll try to take some pics of the drawer insides and sides, too... I have a gorgeous piece of Vermont White quartzite (pretty grey, actually) that's been cut to fit the top, with the curvy front, and a white Kohler undermount sink. I'm thinking about doing faceted crystal knobs, too. it's a real departure from my normal style :) I've just laid the radiant floor heat wiring last night and will be pouring the self-levelling compound today. Can't wait to start tiling! Stacey