I haven't used Satin Impervo Waterborne for some time, but when I did, it seemed to go on like any premium acrylic brand of paint. It dries fast and you will struggle with fast drying paint when you are painting doors. Sure, use a conditioner as that will help it to dry slower. When you paint a door, you have to do it in sections and you have to make a plan. When you paint a section, you cannot go back into that section with your brush after 30 seconds. What I usually do is paint all panels first and when I paint a panel, I do not get any paint outside of that panel. If I am painting several doors at once, I may even paint all the panels on all the doors first and then come back and hit the flats.....horizontal areas first and then the left and right sides. Also, you have to put the paint on heavy...the only way for a paint to dry with a minimal amount of brushmarks is if the paint can settle down into itself as it dries. I'm not saying to put it on so heavy so that it sags of course...you want to find that perfect medium in between too heavy and too light and this takes practice. All that said, a lot of pros these days have just accepted that the modern day paints dry too fast to be brushed, so we just roll them. It's what I do. If you are using a self levelling paint, you can almost get a rolled door to dry with very little stipple from the roller. I use a small 4" roller, 3/8" nap that fits inside all of the panels. Other guys will roll and then backbrush...this way, the roller is just being used as a tool to get the paint on faster. Brushing a door, you will waste a lot of time actually travelling your brush to and from the can to get dips of paint. Using the roller helps to simply apply the paint much quicker. After it is rolled, you can choose to backbrush or not which is really just a matter of personal preference. Some people just don't like any stipple from the roller at all.

Following my dad's advice (he's an old hardware man who's done his share of mixing paint), I bought some black, oil-based paint and started mixing little bits at a time into a small amount of the burgundy. As I added black, I painted patches onto my test board...from the bright to darker. About the time it was done and dry, I also came across a sample of Ralph Lauren's Picture Gallery Red. I would never have guessed from the little square, but when matched up, it seemed to match one of my favorite darkened patches. So today I took the paint chip, had it color matched, and made into Satin Impervo. The first coat looks quite promising. (I don't have the can in front of me, but the mix was mostly magenta, some black, some red oxide, and some kind of white...I argued against the white, but the mixing guy insisted it was needed for balance and wouldn't muddy the color, as I feared. He was right.) Thanks for your time and help.

The shower in my bathroom has white tile that has gotten very stained over the last few year. There is a green haze (probably copper in my well water), plus a general grunge on the tile surface. I can scrub off some of it with steel wool, but it takes forever! Any suggestions/products that can really clean the tile up?

We have Satin Impervo oil-based on our old cabinets (but newish paint). It definitely looks more like paint than conversion varnishes (if that makes sense) but it also performs more like paint too, and has chipped in a few spots. Easy to fill in, but my understanding is that conversion varnish doesn't do that to the same degree. Down side to conversion varnish is that it will look less hand-painted, if you care about that. Generally I like the Satin Impervo, though--wipes down easily, relatively rugged given the use the cabinets get, looks pretty smooth. Ours is also on top of many layers of old paint, which I imagine affects how much it chips, so may perform much better as the first and only layer.