I currently have partial overlay cabinets with a breadboard. I think the same thing would work with full overlay. The drawer front is split. The top few inches are attached to the breadboard and the remainder of the drawer face attaches to the real drawer. The board and drawer operate independently. The doors in this kitchen all have that undercut finger pull space which full overlay won't, so you'd need a handle, but it should work. I wouldn't do it with light colored cabinets, though. Mine are light and it looks like the drawer front is split (which of course it IS). I don't think it'd be very visible with darker cabinetry.

Please pardon my posting this again. This shows 3 of my 4 breadboards. Yes, short drawers in the top tier are a byproduct; if the kitchen were smaller, I'd just have all the drawers at a shorter height, but we have some of each. I've arranged it so that drawers can be pulled out below edge of breadboards so that I can put compost-catchers in place. I just today washed and cut up a bushel of tomatoes for the deyhydrator on the unseen board in the photo, and let the juice drool into a compost catcher tray positioned below it, then dumped the tray once in a while into compost bin. This allowed me to stay seated for a longer time than previously and I felt that the work surface was more efficient and cleaner, since I could immediately deal with the rotten hunks. I would not like to have removable wooden cutting board that gets set on regular countertop for all usage; I need to get my feet and knees under the work surface whenever possible. And I like sitting on a stool whenever possible. I'm old. With a pullout board, you can instantly have a work space with one hand. Can you do that with a concealed one that needs to be lifted out? Here is a link that might be useful: three of four breadboards in photo

One other thing: I originally wanted butterfly hinges. After my contractor brought home the new cabinet doors, he seemed a bit disappointed when I said I'd like to switch to the hidden kind of hinges. He said he'd ordered ones that would fit in pretty tightly because he expected butterfly hinges and that he wasn't sure the hidden kind would work as easily (though he said they might). I don't really understand what he meant but I thought I'd mention it here since it may factor in somehow (?). Thank you.

My only experience is with Loba products, so I won't comment much on the Bona except to say that if you have read reviews of any product yellowing over time, then I would say no, there is nothing you can add to prevent that. Be very cautious of any product containing oil, as it will yellow in time, and even some products claiming to be "waterborne" can dry down to an oil base, so read up on each product before committing. In terms of the Loba 2K Invisible Protect AT (which stands for "Advanced Technology" versus Loba's non-AT version of the same product which is still sold, so make sure you get the AT as it is more durable), the company does claim that it can be used alone to help create a natural finish that is a little lighter than other products in the lineup, but I have followed the stories of people here at Houzz who have tried to use it alone in that manner, and it generally has not worked well. In one case, someone even had to sand down a first coat of 2K Invisible AT and start over using Loba's WS EasyPrime first. The WS EasyPrime will not only prevent side bonding of the wood which could be an issue for you, but it will also help that first layer of 2K Invisible AT to go on much more smoothly. Knowing what I know about how Loba products work, I would never personally recommend anyone using the waterborne products without the WS EastPrime underneath. Is it going to darken your wood? Yes, faintly, but the wood itself is going to darken as it ages over time, and that is your REAL problem more so than which brand of finish you use. Oak, including white oak, will turn amber as it ages, and it will never be the same as it when it was first sanded and installed, regardless of coating type. If you want a lighter look permanently, you need to use a bleaching product or a whitewash product before you even start putting a top coat on to help maintain that lighter color. Another issue with any Loba product is that it has powerful self-leveling compounds which can induce dripping on the vertical stairwell risers. You need to talk to whomever your coating application serviceperson is and make certain that they have experience working with stairways with these flooring products to prevent dripping and other issues. The "2K" in the Invisible Protect AT means it is catalyzed using two parts combined right before applying. Loba claims a 10-minute working window for that catalyzed coating before it starts to set up, but I found it to be more like a 5-minute window once you lay it on, so if your provider is not familiar with working with 2K products, you could end up with a huge mess if they keep trying to go back and work that product. You have to touch it twice and move on--roll it once against the grain, then roll it with the grain and move on. For larger areas like floors, a 2K product ideally requires 2 people to keep the job moving before the edges start curing. Some contractors will be accustomed to using flooring coatings with a squeegee, t-bar type of implement to move it around, and that's just not the best approach with Loba's water-based products. You preferably need to use their specified roller to get the proper coverage. On a stairwell you could probably do some brush work, but you need a really super soft brush like a Purdy Extra Soft to avoid leaving brush marks. You can message me through my profile, and I'd be happy to talk with you in person more about your situation. I would also advise against going with the super-matte finishes. Everyone seems to want that these days, but I can tell you that a bit of sheen or even gloss is going to hold up better for you in terms of the longevity. Loba is a really strong flooring coating that should give you around 30 years of durability, but the semi-gloss or gloss may look better longer as the flooring is used, and that is true of virtually any coating brand. Also with matte, most coating specialists recommend to wait and put that on as the last coat with the gloss underneath or else you could end up with a cloudy finish. These coatings are all made to be clear, and the way that they make them matte is they add a diffusing particle in there to make it more cloudy.