Are your doors flat, or raised panel? If they are flat, you can roll with a foam roller to get a more even finish. Raised panel requires more work and brushing. If you can remove the doors and lay them flat, you can get a better finish. If you overbrush the paint, it will show brush marks. Also, use a soft bristle brush. I prefer High Gloss myself. I would not use Pro Classic. I would use a better grade of high gloss finish. I would not use a poly over the paint because it will affect the color sometimes. I did my old cabinets in Polyurethane Oil Gloss White. It looked great, but because of the oil, it began to yellow over time.

A while ago my mom stripped the mirrored tiles off her hallway wall - really dirty yellow oil-based(?) gloss paint from the 70's. I primed the ripped paper with Kilz and then skimmed with pre-mixed joint compound. I really didn't want to sand (lead?) so planned on skimming the entire hall (it's only 10ft long or so by 7'6" or 7'9" high, the other walls have lots of doors). Now I'm thinking I really don't want to skim around doors, though I think I'll have to skim the blank wall just to feather out all the patches. So, what should I do and in what order? Skim over the old dirty wall on Sat, let her handyman paint the ceiling Monday (she doesn't want him painting the walls "since he's not a painter", though why she's hiring him to paint kitchen/FR/hallway ceilings I don't know)? Wash the other walls with TSP substitute or DW detergent powder to degloss, then prime and paitn all the walls after the ceilings are done? Or should I try to clean the bare wall before skimming (afraid of getting patches wet)? Or do I spot-prime the patches, then clean the wall - by then, will it be deglossed so I can prime over it? BTW, we still have some adhesive from some kind of tape stuck to the wall, so I was thinking skimming was the way to go - I tried scraping and this stuff is not coming off. I used Kilz to prime the bare paper from the ripped drywall before I patched. She only has a quart, I don't think it'll do the whole hallway, so what should we buy a gallon of? I was telling her about Aura but 1) I don't know if it'll stick to the gloss paint even if I try to degloss it by washing with DW powder 2) would it be less $$ to buy a separate primer to go over with Regal (hopefully I can talk her into Matte or Eggshell not semigloss or gloss) if I end up skimcoating? How many coats of primer over joint compound if I skim? I'm hoping for 1 coat of light green paint over white or green-tinted primer. I'm not looking forward to doing this, wish she'd had one of my brothers do it when they were visiting last year, or hire someone (she's hiring a painter to do trim and interior doors later this year, don't know why she's have "nonpainter" do ceilings now). But I didn't think it was a good idea to have skimmed wall when grandkids came to visit next month - I think we should at least get primer on before then (but after ceilings are painted). Would it be best to paint (only have a couple of weeks to let it cure b4 visit) or just prime (and then touchup and spot prime again b4 painting if needed) before the visit? Any/all help greatly appreciated!

With a stain that dark, ambering is not going to be an issue for you but I would not use an oil based product regardless. Brain cells are too important! My personal preference is minimal sheen so I use matte finish top coat or low luster. As mentioned, the names and sheen will vary among manufacturers. With any of them there are certain things to remember - never shake the can, do not stir vigorously so as to create bubbles but DO continually stir gently as you are working. the solids settle out very quickly with low luster products especially and what you are left with on top is going to dry improperly and give you inconsistent sheen levels. This is a big project and needs to be approached with the long term goal in mind regardless of the time it takes which will be longer than you think - it always is. When you get tired of it and try to rush it, you'll see the result of that in the finished product. This is hard for me because if you were a friend of mine here in flesh and blood I'd do anything to talk you out of it. Of course it can be done and many people show their beautiful results but for every one of those there's probably 2 people who got part way into it and wondered why in the heck they ever started. But I'm going to be a cheerleader and say go Shee go! - you can do this, take your time and don't ever work on it when you're tired.

Renovation of our kitchen going on ... Opted with acrylic high gloss cabinets and plywood boxes, Quartz countertops... I was advised to use acrylic flat doors on top cabinets and pvc on down cabinets as pvc can take better abuse ... google about it... and also don’t use wet cloths when wiping down the acrylic flat doors apparently not good for them.. according to google...