Pratt & Lambert paints and primers? And: oil-based enamel paints
fasola-shapenote
15 years ago
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paintguy22
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agoFaron79
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Help! Two questions on primers and C2 Paints, in particular.
Comments (21)I just wanted to pipe up and say that I am more convinced than ever that there was something off with the C2 paint I had gotten last year. I had C2-Icefog. Although I loved the color on the large "chip" (if a 2.5 foot sheet of paper can be called a chip), I did not like the color on the wall at all. Fortunately, with Pirula's help it is now gone (DKC24). But my disliking their color is probably not C2's fault :-). However, regarding paint quality: when I was applying the paint, the paint spattered like the dickens. I had previously painted my trim and I literally had to stop and wipe the trim and baseboards after rolling every wall I did because I got this fine mist *everywhere*. From what I understand, it should not have been like this. The paint store insisted I was doing something wrong and that there was nothing wrong with the paint. Perhaps so, but neither with Benjamin Moore before nor with Pratt & Lambert (Donald Kaufman) since, did I have that problem. Secondly, I'd gotten the paint in Eggshell since I'd read that C2's paints run quite flat and that their Eggshell would be a fairly flat. Well, this eggshell shone like the dickens. It was easily the shiniest room in the house - kitchen and bathroom included where I had used a satin finish (BM, not C2). I like my paints flat and I did not care for the shine I wound up with. I've heard generally good reviews about paint quality from the few folks who have used C2. I would imagine therefore that my experience (negative) is an aberration, but I've never before had an experience where something was painful both during and after the application....See MoreOil or water based primer
Comments (2)Really either will be fine. Most important is using a sandable product. I can't think of an interior oil product that is not sandable and they will kill any stains as well, if you go with water based make sure to check the can (wouldn't trust the guy at the counter on that one). Look for enamel undercoater and make sure it's sandable. Oh, remember to sand lightly after priming....See MoreIs primer necessary over oil-based paint when repainting?
Comments (16)I'm glad to know you guys don't like deglossers over sanding. I'm a professional decorative painter and always choose hand sanding on furniture pieces but have been tempted a few times to try a deglosser. I also agree that sanding and thoroughly cleaning trim in preparation is not a fun job, lol. A few years back I had a client who had a paint crew come on and put latex over oil painted trim...absolute disaster....ended in a lawsuit. I have pretty good luck with sanding and a bonding primer like 123 or C2... But a recently repainted a cabinet that had been done in oil and I did have some adhesion issues....I remember wishing I had just repainted the darn thing in oil. I believe one of the companies makes a non smelly oil based primer now, but I tried one and didn't care for the way it laid out...brush strokes. 123 levels out nicely, which is why I use that a lot. I would think using an oil based primer would be another way to eliminate sanding, though. Many of the oil primers say they can be topcoated with latex. Which always seems odd to me too! Maybe because they dry to a flatter sheen, gives the latex something to grip. I agree that the easiest thing is to thoroughly clean and repaint with oil like Ben Moore satin impervo, but aside for the yellowing factor, the op was considering a zero voc paint so oil is not gonna give you that....and the whole hassle of cleanup, of course. Oh, and when you see a primer that says it requires no sanding- ignore that. If you want to ENSURE latex sticks over oil, sand, and clean well. I was lazy painting over my own oil trim with 123 primer, and where I sanded it stuck well, and where I omitted the sanding, it didn't....See Moreprimer/paint failed-need help
Comments (3)The adhesion failed for some reason. Sand the door to smooth. Wash it with ammonia and water mix, rinse and dry with towel. Remove the door and lay it out or hang it through the bored hole. Spray prime it with at least two coats of rust preventative primer. After that is dry, two coats of 100% acrylic latex paint with a foam roller should produce a nice finish or you can spray paint it with an enamel of your choice. Make sure it's a quality enamel. Michael...See Morefasola-shapenote
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agopaintguy22
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agoLori A. Sawaya
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agodecorativewalls
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agofasola-shapenote
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agowryorwhite
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agopaintguy22
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agofasola-shapenote
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agoChristopher Nelson Wallcovering and Painting
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agoprotozoa_talktalk_net
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoHolly Stockley
4 years agoLori A. Sawaya
4 years ago
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