I agree with paintguy. Acrylics increase their adhesion with time. What scraps off after 2 hours may well be adhered after 2 days. As to Behr paints, I have personally made test samples of Behr Ultra, Marquee and WB Alkyd over sections of hard, slick, high gloss oil paint. I hand these to customers and defy them to scratch it off with their fingernails. They are wearing thin with literally hundreds of tries, but they are still intact! Wanting to see the worst case scenario, I did not sand or de-gloss the oil paint. I am an old school painter, raised on oil pains and somewhat of a doubting Thomas. I have become a believer. If someone's paint is "balling up", I would wonder what is on that surface? Was it cleaned of oils from hands or other pollutants?

Thanks, Faron. I truly appreciate all your help. I called around and found a local store that will order it for me. I should have done that before, thanks for the kick in the pants. I am usually pretty good about things like this, but I guess I got set on finding it in stock and plum forgot to just order it. If you don't mind, I have two more questions. 1) I am going to use either Benjamin Moore Waterborne Ceiling Paint Ultra Flat Finish #508 or Benjamin Moore Muresco #258. Do you recommend I prime with the Odorless before I paint the ceiling too? The ceiling is popcorn finish. 2) Do you mean I should sand each coat of Primer, or once after the second coat?

1. No it doesn't matter, but ensure the primer you use is for metal. Particularly if you are sanding down the old. If you get any areas that are bare, you don't want the primer to rust. 2. No, I like to take them off and paint flat as well. Less potential to run. 3. For 2 doors, I'd probably use a small roller, with either a sponge roller attachment, or the smoothest mohair roller. You might dip it a bit more, but it will help minimize stippling. 4. Not so sure on Superpaint. If these are not heavily used, it might be ok. I think you might do better with a metalastic or other enamel finish designed for doors. I know you have it left over, but to me it makes sense to use the right finish, versus what you 'have'. It would be like putting 2 stroke fuel in your 4 stroke lawn mower 'to use it up' because you have some extra from the weed eater. If you're going to the trouble of painting, don't try to save a few $$. A quart of the right paint should be around $10-15.

Gardz is an awesome product as well, but I’ve never used it on oil trim. It’s more for troublesome walls and ceilings especially after removing wallpaper. I’ll warn you, Guardz stinks as well... covering oil trim is going to require a stinky product, no getting around that, no latex based primer will work. Oil Kilz will work, oil and very stinky and you need thinner for clean up, Stix will work, probably the least stinky, and easier to clean up. You could try Gardz on a section and see if it works, it’s water clean up but it’s clear... it goes on whiteish but dries clear which is not great if you are looking for a primer with coverage over an old color that you want to change. I hope this helps😊