Technicolor - After reading your original post again, I never thought about porch and floor paint but that would make sense. What brand (Ace?) were you talking about? Oh, and wouldn't you still need to sand - at least scuff sand and use a (bonding) primer like Zinsser first? *NOTE - Just a general heads up, I don't recommend anyone using SW Porch and Floor paint. Total crap. I supposedly got a 'bad batch' (it never got past tacky and I went above and beyond to do that job right.) and had to redo my stair project which was MISERABLE. They gave me a new gallon of paint and threw in some tape and sandpaper but that still didn't fix my stairs. I was told they were discontinuing the product but I believe it's still available. Your kitchen sounds really pretty. And I like red - have a bathroom painted BM Moroccan Red. You think bb around my DR side too? "My senses tell me it is the dining room that is making this so difficult for you. I know you don't want to change it, but the styles are clashing regardless of color." I almost hate to ask, but can you be more specific? I look at it everyday and I'm sure can't 'see' it like someone else. I'm assuming it's too formal/stuffy for the kitchen side? I've been trying to get away from that a bit, tho the rug didn't bother me enough to make it a replacing priority right now. I figured I'd have a better chance of stumbling across art I liked first. Even if I had more money, I don't know what I'd pick or replace first. Ha, it's a little tough to change anything if you don't have a clear game plan. It's interesting, in the past when I had a project, I'd throw ideas out and go back and forth, back and forth with what I wanted to do and I always have to WAIT, sometimes months, until I figure out what's going to work for me. I wish I knew how to speed the process up. I'll post a photo with the new hardware on when it comes.

My experience is “DON’T USE MINWAX FOR ANYTHING, ESPECIALLY THEIR POLYSTAIN”!!!!! I sat around for 2 weeks trying to stain everything and having issues with stain dripping or being uneven and stripping it back off to do it again. I knew it must be the stain because I was doing everything according to what I’ve seen on YouTube by Bruce for the Minwax products. The only problem was that that was the only color in the stores that I liked (Bombay Mahogany) When I started reading reviews I saw that everyone was having same issues. I finally got in touch w/ painter friend who said that’s why he didn’t use Minwax products anymore. He hooked my up with Old Master Gel Stain in Rich Mahogany and wow what a difference. Bad news is I had to strip all the old stuff off so it’s like I did my cabinets 2x. Still not quite done but I’ll post pics off my progress and the Minwax nightmare vs what Old General looks like. My cabinets are pine and with gel stain you don’t have to condition wood but with regular stain always use wood conditioner first or it will be a blotchy job. Also you need to make sure any scratches or flaws in wood are sanded out or stain will highlight them big time. The last piece of advice is that when you’re sanding to get scratches out, you must sand through the grits. For example: if you’re using 80 grit to get out a deeper scratch, you’ll want to follow up with a 150 grit then a 180 grit or 240 grit. You can’t just jump from 80 grit to 180 or 240, trust me I tried. 240 can remove scratches 80 grit leaves, by sanding through the grits you’re leaving smaller scratches until with the last grit the eye can’t see any scratch. To check if scratches are gone hold wood horizontal while shine light from the bottom of wood piece, with eyes just above eye level peer down wood toward light and any flaws should be visible. Also when using oil based stains if you wipe wood down with mineral spirits first any scratches will show up right away. Let the mineral spirits dry and then sand out.

Thank you for the help. Sombreuil_mongrel, do you use powdered or premixed dyes? Do you use oil or water based dyes? I will look up the Old Masters products as well. I would like to go to the nearest Woodcraft store (or other quality store) I don't drive, so I would have to convince a friend to drive me or haul cans of stuff on the bus. I am tempted to do the latter, I am already probably known as the crazy woman who bought a pitchfork and rose plants on the bus. I push the boundaries of the "thee bag limit". I'll try to take pictures. I have a bit of veneer to reglue and a small spot near the base of the piece to make a cosmetic patch. It is at toe level, My little dog would be the only one who would see the patch, but I will be happier with it repaired. The pieces in question are quality pieces which I got on freecycle or craiglslist. I just moved to a place with room to work on finishing projects. I am excited to be able to finally refinish the beautiful furniture I have been collecting. The same pieces in mint condition are beyond my budget. I think it is a great idea to have a couple of colors of complementary dyes and stains. I am a fiberartist and am fussy about color. I don't expect my furniture to "match" but I want the tones to blend, not clash. My first project is brown mahogany and I am concerned about having the "right " amount of red. A similarly toned dresser is the next project. This piece needs a slightly larger cosmetic patch. If I am happy with my results on the brown mahogany pieces, another piece is a fruit wood mid century entertainment credenza from a dear friend. It will be a different stain color - the original color looks like gf candlelight. The original finish is nitrocellulose lacquer according the friend who helped me move it. I respect the opinion of using "quality" refinishing techniques on "quality" pieces. Another way of looking at it is that the gel stain is easier to strip/remove than dye. I don't want to start an argument. I am concerned that the gel finish may look too opaque. Therefore, I want to try gel stains on small non valued pieces like a dark wood stool before touching my special pieces. (I realize that the colors won't be exact matches on different pieces). I will eventually get around to dealing with my kitchen. The cabinets don't even match and the countertop is a disaster. That will be a winter project perfectly suited to gel stains. I am trolling craigslist for a tall pantry cabinet to add to the mix. Off to the library, I will check in with everyone later and read more of the fabulous threads on kitchen and other refinishing.

Envelope- assuming you mean the skeleton/groundwork? Envelope meaning the color of the floor, walls, ceiling and trim. That makes up the color envelope of the room in to which you put the contents. Contents being rugs, furniture, accessories, art -- all your stuff. If you keep it neutral and cohesive, then you have a flexible envelope. That way the space can evolve over time as you add and/or change the contents. With this strategy you don't need a bold accent wall or to boldly accent mediocre architectural elements like the ceiling beams. Mediocre not in a bad way, but they're just beams kinda way. Because the more bells and whistles you add to the envelope, the less your special contents will stand out. If everything is special, than nothing is. Keep the envelope simple so your stuff like the guitars have some room to shine.