Thank you so much for the great advice. The GC has his own crew. We thought he would be using them; however, he sub'd out to brother, who we know also. (It's a small town). We met with the GC yesterday. When we asked why the framers weren't following plans, he told us that is how they normally frame headers and that they were actually better than what plans call for - except the windows won't fit and transoms above doors and windows won't line up at the top across the front and side of the house. To be honest, I think the framers were rushing, just did what they always do, weren't reading the plans, and didn't think it would make a difference or that we would know the difference. When getting bids, one contractor told us we didn't need to waste money on plans - that they could go by the very basic floor plan you can print off the internet. And he is the other contractor that comes highly recommended in the area. I trust the plans drawn by the architect. Researching him online, he is very reputable. We put in a call to him this morning and he was very extremely helpful. After your responses and speaking with architect, my husband & I have decided to have him redo the headers to plan and have emphasized that they are to actually use the plans we purchased instead of for decoration for his truck dashboard. I didn't really say that last part, but am learning that I have got to be a lot more assertive even though I really like the GC personally. He is pulling his crew on the job and has apologized. My question now is who pays for mistakes? When they poured 5 yards too much concrete for porch that is sitting out in the yard, shouldn't the framer who made the mistake have to eat that concrete cost? And if they need more lumber to correct headers, shouldn't they have to pay for that or at least rip down the 2x10's they used to 2x8's instead of us paying for more lumber? Should we deduct that as we are paying him now for materials or when we pay his cost plus payment at the end? The contract specifies to be built to plans provided and I even had contract retyped with the architect's name and plan number before we started any work. Thanks again for the advice!

Just a general note for spray foamers. It's best to drill at least two holes for an application, the size of the dispensing tube. Inject in one hole, the other vents. There is a degree of judgement on the spacing- more pairs of holes may be required, say for under a tub (large area). A small amount of oozing through the vent is desirable, but provide surface protection for overflow. If the visible area around the holes are to be finished or meet cosmetic requirements, masking should be used. The foam residue is pervasive & entrenched-speaking of urethanes. For the OP, you need to know what's behind the door skin.

another_linda - Both good points to consider. Thank you! ideefixe - I never said that I thought the print was an original. It was sold as VINTAGE (not an antique or "the real thing.") As I said, the print is probably from an older Temple of Flora book and was then framed in the 60's or 70's. While older prints from books can be worth a little money, the new reproduction poster prints (that are mass produced and sold these days,) are not worth the paper they are stamped on. I occasionally check eBay for Thornton listings. I bid on this print, because I liked the way it looked in the photos, and thought it would make a nice addition to our home. Plus, the price was reasonable! I really didn't expect it to have any more value than I paid for it. The reason that I am not happy, is simply because it is not in the shape that seller suggested. A Print is the correct word to use for a reproduction. The originals are called original paintings, oils,water color, engravings, plates, etc..) We had original plates. From the dictionary Print - A design or picture transferred from an engraved plate, wood block, lithographic stone, or other medium.

You need to check with your housing authority - they may have a minimum - R10 or R15. I'm in Minneapolis - zone 4 - I went with a total of R15. Installed top/bottom plate. Bottom plate pressure treated, with tar paper on basement floor - no direct contact with cement. I went with 1.5" x 48" wide XPS (pink stuff) against the wall - no studs yet (this makes a thermal break). Used PL300 to glue it to the wall - don't need a lot - one tube does 3 - 4 - 48" sheets. Then put 2x4's flat, 16" OC (you can get XPS scored 16", use a serrated bread knife to finish the cut), with 1.5" XPS between them - for a total of 3" XPS - R15. Take your time to make sure that the studs will fall in the center of the drywall joints. You may have to add additional 1x2's or 2x4's for the dry wall butt joints. Basement Insulation Basics Just an aside: my 1950's home had the old style basement windows. Replaced them with glass block - a lot more light once you get rid of the window frame and storm window. I found the glass block windows come pre-made. I ripped the windows out, including the frame. Installed the glass block windows with shims. Used a little foam to hold it in place. Next day, removed the shims, and foamed the rest of the opening. I framed around the window, before insulating, so I could do sheet rock 'returns'. Also what gives more light, is if you angle the bottom of the window 3" or 4" rather then make a right angle window sill.