We spent an eon agonizing over how to incorporate a computer into the kitchen -- the computer is where we get all of our recipes, all of our music, as well as all of our news/movies/info/entertainment. We came _this close_ to buying an i-mac and putting it on an articulating arm mounted to the side of the pantry (which is next to the prep area). Our thinking was that it could face someone seated at the island for t.v. or could be used for recipe sites in the prep area, while also being able to play music or podcasts over the in-ceiling speakers. In the end after visiting the Apple store and talking at length with an APple guy (who happens to be a lawyer by day and about to embark on his own kitchen renovation), with his help we went an altogether different route, although the new i-macs are beautiful, we realized that we'd rather search for recipies (and music, and everything else) on our individual laptops while seated in the living room and then carry the laptop into the kitchen as opposed to doing this while sitting or standing in the kitchen. By our way of thinking, the hours that the kitchen computer would get used would not be enough to justify buying a new computer for the job, and most of what we wanted it to do could be better done on a laptop (and I'd argue even better done on a brand spankin' new i-book, but so far no dice). Thus this is the route we chose instead: 1 - speakers installed in the kitchen ceiling (and living room ceiling too)and wired to the back of the pantry, we had our electrician put an outlet inside it 2 - a shelf installed in the pantry that holds the following: 2- powered amps (0ne for each set of speakers), and an Airport Express that my laptop (or any computer in the household) that allows me to opt to play through the in-ceiling speakers (I-tunes, or Pandora mostly, but could play anything the computer can get to). 3 - a slate lazy susan (ordered from Amazon) to hold a laptop on the island while cooking, the thought here is that it keeps it up out of spills, and also turns as the cook changes positions while cooking. 4 - as for the t.v., there are lots of small, high-res lcd t.v.'s at Sam's Club/Costco that would do the job and fit nicely in a small space for less than $300, it didn't seem to make sense to buy a dedicated computer to primarily be a t.v. (at 3x the cost of the t.v.). We don't actually watch t.v.(just Netflix, I-tunes t.v. shows and Hulu) so it hasn't been an issue, but if we did, say want t.v. going while in the kitchen, II think I'd buy an inexpensive one rather than buying another/dedicated computer to be a t.v. (though that could be done as well). 5 I'd till like to add a wireless keyboard and mouse tothe laptop because they're under $100, cute as a button and would allow me to not worry about having messy hands on the keyboard while cooking. Although the island is still under construction, the speakers, amps and airport extreme are up and running, and we're...

Many guys hate GE. I think they are fine. I like the layout of things and I think they are decent quality. Breakers are proprietary, but Culter CL Series "classifed" fit. Sq D HOM Series, I like the layout of things and I think they are good quality. Breakers are proprietary, but Culter CL Series "classifed" fit. Cutler BR series is my go to, but not nearly my favorite. Fit and finish is not top quality and I don't like the neutral bar layout. They are simply what my supply house stock and there are more of them around here than others. C-H CH Series is very good quality, but are much more expensive and I don't see too many of them. Breakers are proprietary. Sq D QO Series is very good quality, but are much more expensive. I do see quite a few of them, mostly older. Breakers are proprietary. I absolutely HATE the neutral/ground bar layout. This is s last resort panel for me. I really like Siemens, with a copper buss. More expensive, but great quality. I love the neutral bar layout. Hard to find around here though.

I did replace the GFCI breaker with a normal one. I added a GFCI receptacle to the left of the kitchen sink. And I found out the master bath receptacle on the wall with the light switch, feeds the kitchen receptacle to the right of the sink. So I put a GFCI in the master bath and a GFCI label on the kitchen receptacle to the right of the sink. The oddball receptacle in the master bath down by the floor, got swapped for a GFCI. And the lower bath got a GFCI as well. So the main panel is all normal breakers now. I was busy painting the garage OSB and drywall. Finally getting around to the sub panel again. Found one on Ebay for a decent price. And it had all the breakers installed. The last guy was going to use it for a sub panel but decided to go with something else. This sub panel has screw down breakers. (see photos below) So I got 50ft 6/3 w/g NM-B cable. It is still wrapped up. The current sub panel "feed" is 12/2 romex coming out of the wall just a tad under the radon exhaust pvc.(see photo) Prior owners handy work. That exit hole is right by the out wall of the house. That 12-2 feed is routed through the double rim joist into the house lower level bedroom. The joists are perpendicular to that wall and run straight back to the utility room which has an open ceiling. The rest of the lower level is dropped ceiling tiles. The 12-2 feeder was routed diagonally across that lower room through all the 2x12 joists, across the doorway, and where the stairs are, and then 90 degrees to the right into the room with the main panel. In routing it, it was snaked through holes being used for other larger cables. I have my doubts about being able to route 6/3 through the same path. Many of those holes are going up on an angle. So I probably will wind up drilling new holes in the joists to run the 6/3. Another option presented itself today as far as the exit hole into the garage for the 6/3 feed. I removed the hose biib connection that was in the garage. See photo where drywall needs to be patched. (The hose biib was left there after the garage was put on. That wall was formerly the front of the house.) So that hose biib hole is closer to the main panel by a good 11 feet. The hole size is just under 1 inch. If I route the 6/3 cable through that spot, it would require less drilling of joists. But it would require me to run the cable to the right along the garage wall to get to the new sub panel. I have not decided if I am going to mount it just above the radon pipe in the corner, or the adjacent wall. They are both outside walls of the garage. So the question then is, if I route the 6/3 along the wall, can I enclose it in some leftover schedule 40 pvc conduit I have for protection? It would be about 51 inches off the floor and head to the right about 12 feet. Or do I need a different cable altogether since it is in a damp location? New sub panel Screw down breakers The romex with the horse shoe loop is the current sub panel feed New panel will mount either above the radon pipe exit on the right, or on the adjacent wall. Current sub panel up high to the right of door Former hose biib location. Can route 6/3 through the hole and save a lot of joist hole drilling versus the current 12-2 feed exit location.

Just bought 3/3 cable, so will go with 4 wire option. I do want to run a 2 way light switch into the house to run o/s lights @ garage when expected or unexpected guests arrive. My big problem is I don't have good access to house panel as the existing conduit is full. I'll get creative & find a way to the neutral, but for the ground- I'll connect to factory ground lug @ steel frame. It is a drop of 4' from house box. I'll bring the Hilti hammer drill home to drive the ground rods at the garage. Thanks for help-all of you. I'll try to return help at plumbing & gas fitting board.