I haven't grown Tess, but if my RdR is typical, it's a neat colored rose that might go with a lot of things. I haven't seen many pictures that do it justice. The outside seems more of a cool pink, but the heart of the bloom has almost some warm, fluorescent tones to it. This great picture from helpmefind is pretty close to what mine looks like--it seems to be a hard rose to photograph accurately. And WHAT a gorgeous plant--the foliage is beautiful (can you tell she's one of my favorites?) If your Tess has any underlying blue tones to it at all, they might go together well.

I don't find that the low e coating makes a big difference. on older windows you could tell easily but on newer ones the low e is a light blue or greenish tint. low e is a good savings as it keeps heat out in hot climates and keeps heat in in cold climates. the location of the low e coating determines which window is for which climate. here is a link that shows the nfrc sticker. lots of good info on this little tag. http://www.nfrc.org/label.aspx this org rates most all windows, if you are looking at windows that are not independently rated..shop a little more and get nfrc certified. if the windows have full screens you could do solar screens but these are always dark. solar screens can be 70% or 90% depending on what amount of light you want to block. maybe lower %..these are just common to my area. look for the nfrc sticker on windows. this shows the location for the window (see above) and the visible light that comes thru the window. as a retrofit...I'd look at both low e windows to determine if the slight tint is ok and solar screens. sometimes it is difficult to properly flash replacement windows. best of luck.

Sorry, I just saw your post! If you are still interested I can get the info on the manufacturer for you! It was a replacement for another bay window. It is framed with wood, the granite runs flat out to the window and is bordered by the backsplash material which I love! You probably found something by now, hope it all worked out! This forum is so active, messages get "buried" in a day! My apologies!

Are the other windows on the building arch-headed or more rectangular like your new ones will be? Are the sash and muntins on the other windows in the house similarly thick as the arch-headed window you want to replace? The proposed new windows have much more delicate look (Shingle style) about them. They might look odd with other windows built with thicker sash and separations like the arch-headed window. Will you be lowering the sill height on all the indows in the room ( i.e. below the dado)? How does that look with other windows on the sides of the house? Don't forget to consider how the fenestration pattern looks from outside the building. We're in a period of (unfortunate, IMO) of window willy-nilly-ness where not as much thought about exterior looks compared to interior desires is being taken. I regularly see some pretty awkward-looking window placements (off-centerness, out-of-proportion combinations, odd combinations of vertical and horizontally-oriented windows, muntins and non-muntins mixed together, etc.) on renovations around here. In general, buildings look best when there is a distinct rhythm or pattern to their windows; if all the windows have the same general shape (vertically/horizontally); if the windows are centered over each other from story to story and if the windows on the lower floors are larger, rather than smaller, than those on the upper floors. Exceptions like dormers, oriels, accents, etc., aside, the windows should be a unifying design regulator to the overall mass of a building. Don't mess with that strong force casually just because you want an opening at a certain place on the inside. Of the technical issues, just make sure your contractor is a good flasher. Read up on the types of flashing and water shielding and where it should, and should not, be in order to have leak-free windows. Make sure you have a good drip kerf on the underside of your windowsill. Also, from personal experience, try to get windows made with few if any fingerjointed wooden pieces. I think it's worth extra money to get clear wood. Don't rely on paint to keep those joints covered and intact for the long haul. I live in a mid-19th century house, with orginal window sash and framing. My 165 year old windows, though in need of restoration - a long, tedious job that should occupy the rest of my life! - are still in slavageable condition because they were made from solid, clear, pine. Machines capable of finger-jointing scraps into serviceable lengths hadn't been invented in 1850, thank God. OTOH, neither had Grace Watershield been invented. HTH, L.