Bart, I'll say that 'Pierre Notting' has a growth habit similar to 'Mme Isaac Pereire' and 'Souvenir du Dr. Jamain', but takes a bit longer to get there in size. It's above-average for me as far as blackspot resistance, but does get a bit of mildew when Spring comes in cool and slowly, as it is now. It has two big flushes before the heat sets in, then the odd flower or two, then a medium flush or two when it cools down again. Blooms can fry in midday sun when temperatures are high -- when I anticipate this, I cut them for the vase while they're closed but with open sepals. 'Mme de Sevigne' is like a stretched-out 'Mme Isaac Pereire' -- longer and more climbing, but can be grown free-standing with some staking, as I have mine. It's also above-average for disease resistance for me. Bloom cycles are as for 'Pierre Notting'. But please note that that's how they are for me here in central NJ. Your conditions would be different. :-) ~Christopher

HI Joe I'm popping into the discussion late, just to make some comments about relative hardiness. You're warmer than I am by a zone or two, so take that into account - still, when you're looking for hardy long-blooming roses having ones that are hardy a zone or two beyond you can help. Obviously Christopher and madgallica are going to have feedback more pertinent for your specific location. In my experience, Souvenir de la Malmaison is particularly winter tender and even in your zone will need some protection in the winter. Apparently SDLM has considerable tea rose in its heritage enough that it's a real wimp in cold. Consequently I put my last (maybe 5th) try at SDLM in my most protected and pampered spot along with 6 or 7 teas that I can overwinter in zone 5 with pampering. SDLM didn't even think about coming back with maximum protection in my virtual zone 6, so I'd put her marginal in even zone 7. She'll want protection even there. Kronprinzessin Viktoria, Marchesa Beccella, Rose du Roi (the one from Burling), and Clotilde Soupert are all winter hardy for me without much effort. I think La Reine might be in a better spot, though it failed to overwinter in a part shade spot once so far. For repeat bloom, the best is Marchesa Boccella - she's going to bloom with the frequency of the others you mention. For me, KV and CS are mostly spring and fall bloomers, and my Rose du Roi is too new to repeat much at all (just approaching its third year). Reine des Violettes laughs off the cold and is reliably hardy, just be sure to get the real version of this one (Burling has the real RdV for instance) as there's a once-bloomer sold under this name as well. As others mentioned, teas in your climate will take quite a bit of work but are marginally doable at a much reduced state. If you want to indulge for your own sake and fuss (as opposed to your mom's), the more hardy teas for me have been Maman Cochet (probably the most hardy), Mrs BR Cant, Duchesse de Brabant, and Madame Antoine Mari. Georgetown Tea made it several years as did Rainbow. None of them bloom profusely but they're a novelty in zone 5 and as such fun for me. Cynthia

Aww, so sweet, MetteBee. We love babies here. Katyajini, check with local gardeners before you plant Gooseneck Loosestrife, second pic. Purple Loosestrife can not be sold in some states. White Gooseneck Loosestrife is a little more mannerly, but if you're going to plant either one, plant them in a pot sunk into the ground to control the rhizomes. It's a shame such pretty plants can be invasive. Veronica is much safer. Sheila is right, they look almost identical. Physostegia, first pic, is less aggressive than loosestrife and easier to pull out. Or, maybe where you live, they're both easier to control. You can get a spiky white look with foxglove, delphinium, snapdragons, veronica, penstemon and verbascum. Here's a photo that has long inspired me that you might like. (Found on the web with no credit.) I believe the tall white spires are delphinium. I've had both Physostegia and Loosestrife in my garden. They spread like wildfire, especially the Loosestrife, and took years to get out. I learn the hard way, but you're being wise to do the research first.

I think some kind of trellis or screening structure near the HVAC equipment or at the front edge of the roof as others suggested, could obscure the view. This is required in my area for commercial buildings with rooftop equipment. . In the "improve curb appeal" area, I think a lot can be done with your front yard. The side photo showing a glimpse of the neighbor's iron fence shows a walkway, a green shrub, and some grass. Your front yard could use some attractive landscaping. Or, if time or money is limited, put in some hard scaping - cover the dead lawn with a rock or gravel pattern and have an interesting center piece or two in the middle. Just something to make it look not-abandoned. Also, I think what looks like a chain-link gate to the left of the garage could be spruced up. Compare how it looks to the neighbor's redwood (?) or redwood colored wood fence on the other side of the yard. The wood fence looks attractive, the chain link gate looks scruffy. Good luck.