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Painting over Polyurethane

14 years ago

All the doors and baseboards and trim in this house are all done in Minwax Jacobeanstain with Minwax polyurethane over them However, the doors feel kind of rough and as if only one coat of poly was used. I would love to have white doors and trim. Can this be done and what do you suggest. My husband says it cannot be done and that we would have to replace all of it that is stained and polyed.

What say you??

Helen

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Comments (3)

paintguy22
14 years ago
Of course it can be done, but it will never be as durable as if you started with new wood. You will want to sand to dull the sheen of the poly which would give the primer a better chance at sticking well. I would suggest BIN as a primer followed by two topcoats of a 100 percent acrylic paint in satin or better sheen.
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brendainnj
14 years ago
OK, here's a question from someone who HATES the mess of sanding...could a deglosser be applied to the trim, then follow up w/BIN primer and good quality paint? I've seen some people recommend the deglosser to prep cabinets (on TV) for painting. Would it make that much difference in the end?

Thank you!
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To be fair, we are not questioning the allergic reaction. We are questioning the SOURCE of the allergic reaction. There are SOOOO many things that can create a reaction that causes hospitalization (which is my definition for "bad allergic reaction"). Things like latex allergies can be horribly debilitating. It can ruin your life...Latex is in everything...and I mean EVERYTHING (150,000 items and counting). This is just ONE example of a life-altering chemical reaction. Wood dust allergy (some of the South American hardwoods can have serious life threatening reactions to their dust) are not as rare as you would think. And they go "unnoticed" and "undiagnosed" until a renovation/new home build event occurs. And then there are the other chemicals in the build process. The adhesive industry is FULL of horror stories of life threatening events (black-outs, brain injury do to lack of 02, anaphylaxis, etc). Yes it is ENTIRELY possible that the chemicals in the wood finish are to blame. But it is also entirely possible that an adhesive used could be the culprit. Or the paint. Or the epoxy used to glue the counter tops down, or 'x, y, or z' chemical. Please tell us a bit more about the finishes used on the floor (stain, sealant, finish, glue-down install, floating floor, etc). We might be able to help with a bit more information.
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sombreuil_mongrel
14 years ago
Polyurethane varnish laughs at your de-glossing chemical.
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