I don't think changing color would be an issue.

The primer that you have is meant for that color. You probably would only need one coat of that. With a different color, you may need two.

I use different color left over primers just to use them up. But again, two coats of paint is needed for a good cover.

SG

SG

On my SW fan deck, held under my Ott light I use for art work, I see hints of pink undertones in Reliable White, hints of gray>green undertones in Moderate White. Very subtle though. Regardless, those colors are so close, I would have no qualms about switching the top coat color. Always do two finish coats (even if you use a tinted primer that's an exact match). Just a thought, the tinted primer is going to look funky, not 100% 'true' to the paint swatch. So if you're seeing yellow it might be due to that, or your lighting. Try a full spectrum bulb or GE Reveal bulb, it takes the yellow out ;)

Change it. Just make sure to apply the correct number of mils the finish product calls for.

just chris:

Don't mean to sound dumb - BUT, what is mils? Have you had experience with Moderate White? I went and got three of the $5.00 sample jars from S.W. yesterday. The other color that was suggested using samples of my flooring,cabinets,counters,tile was Kilim Beige - any thoughts?

Hi Cherri,

Moonshadows' got it right here. The colors are so close that the primer color is immaterial. White primer would've been perfectly fine too.

Main point here...the colors are in the white tint-base, which has the most hiding-power. Tinted primers DO really start to help in the medium-dark to darkest colors.

*** The darker the color...the less "opacity" it has. Therefore, tinted primers for the darkest tinting-bases.
*** LIGHT colors dry to a thicker "mil-thickness", assuming the coats aren't pushed too thin.
*** DEEP tones dry to a thinner mil coating, are less opaque, & can take double the time to dry between coats.
*** TWO color-coats though!!! This is where the color-depth & durability are made.

Later,
Faron

Cherri - "mils" is a term in the painting industry that descibes the thinkness of an applied coating or the thinkness a manufacturer recommends is applied (wet mils) or what is left after the coating dries (dry mils). Mils are usually measured with a wet mil guage. The product data sheet provides this and worlds of other information on just about every aspect of the product for which it applies to.

Technical product data sheets (not MSDS) will tell the applicator how thick to apply the product per coat. It will tell you how many wet mils to apply it (mesured while still wet)and will give you a film thickness you can expect after the coating has dried (measured when dry). It will also give you the amount of solids by volumn.

This is important because if you have a caoting that is 50% solid by volumn and apply 4 mils of wet paint to your surface - when it fully cures it will leave you with a dry coating film of 50% of the number of wet mils applied. In this case you would have a dry film thickness of 2 mils/coat. If the manufacturer recommends 2 coats - what he is saying is that if you apply the coating with the correct thickness of mils, the finish will perform the way in which it was design. This will also show through when you have color issues. Building layers of color in the proper amount of applied mils will greatly affect the anticipated results of the finished product. You've heard many folks here and around talk about paint performance and about the product not doing what it was suppose to - this is, in some cases, due to poor or improper coating application either in the amount of wet mils applied or in the manner in which it was applied (brushed, rolled, or sprayed).

Deep colors (as was pointed out above) have little or no highing power becasue they lack a pigmented base. Deep or ultra deep bases are usually clear and rely on only the colorant that is added for color tone and matching powers - these colors have little or no power to cover or hide and are often coupled with a special primer color that helps the finish deep color tone to cover in three or more coats. Black would be an exception in some cases.

Lighter colors have pigmented base matrerials which is how the product gets its ability to cover over light or white primers. Of course there are many other factors but these are basic in nature and easy for most folks to understand.

It's like mixing skim milk in your coffee. try using the same amount of half and half or heavy cream in your coffee and see if you can tell the difference in the color of the coffee. Any coffee lovers out there...!

Colors that are close - like your whites - are not too much trouble because they have a pigmented base. Your issue was "could you change the color" in the last coat. For a true color match to your chip (and sheen if changing that too)- two coats would do it, one coat might be close but to get the proper color match - one would need to put the correct number of "mils" for the product and color being applied.

Hope this helps.

Here is a link that might be useful: Wet mil guage - round type

Chris:

Thank you so much, I get it. You have amazing knowledge and I thank you for taking the time for such an indepth explanation. I feel better about making a change - I plan on doing sample boards (primed first) this weekend and take to the house to see them in different rooms and different lighting. I need to double check my contract - I'm pretty sure they are applying two coats and I know they are using rollers. Again, you are much appreciate and thank you for sharing.

Are you a coffee drinker? I find that analogy works for coffee drinkers.

Keep an eye on things. Ask you painter if he has a wet mil gauge. If he does, ask him how many wet mils he supposed to be applying per coat and ask him to check it while you watch - its as fun as watching paint dry - haha. You'll get the idea as soon as he answers. He will either be glad to show you or he will dance around idea - not knowing what to do next.

Good luck with the project. Let us know how it turns out.

:-)