One more CC fan here, though I realize you asked for a comparison. Just finished painting a raw wood bathroom vanity that my husband built, with CC tinted Benjamin Moore Simply White. Agree with other posters that the prep and sanding between coats is critical. I used a 4" purdy angled brush to cut in and a foam roller for the flat surfaces. The first coat soaked it up like a sponge (and a very expensive way to prime I might add). Next time I might use a less expensive product for the priming stage. I sanded with 220 between coats, tacked off dust and ultimately gave it 3 coats . I plan on using it for the matching linen cabinet he made us as well as the board and batten trim in our bathroom. I live in NC (near Raleigh) and was able to purchase this at a local store that carries Benjamin Moore paints (BM now owns Cabinet Coat/Insl-x products). Hope this helps - good luck!

Welcome back Chloe! It's fun to hear updates...even if someone's having a little struggle. I would use a wider brush...preferably on the wider areas. * With a 1.5", you're stroking forever to cover the same area as a 3" would do in a half-dozen strokes. * Plus, all the loading-time is a drag on time too. * With a 3" or wider brush, the long, light "tipping-off" strokes tend to level a wider area better. * Think of trying to level a drywall mud seam with a 1.5" knife...wouldn't be very easy, fast, OR even! There is kind of a "delicate balance" of how thick the coats need to be! >>> Horizontal surfaces: The coats can be slightly thicker. >>> Vertical surface: Little trickier here. Coats usually have to be thinner; therefore 3 lighter coats are often warranted. I believe Michael has this view too. >>> Don't apply coats as thin as a "drybrush" layer. The product needs "the weight of itself" to level properly. If coat is too thin, no leveling will happen, and strokes will dry into the film too fast. >>> You could do a light sanding with a 220-grit sponge b4 a 3rd coat. >>> On my test boards, I used the C2 SAP Primer, waited a day, and sanded smooth b4 2 coats of CC a day apart. This was on crappy pallet boards! The "swail" of the graining-bands is still visible, but I can't detect any brushstrokes. >>> Decorative-detail areas. Yes, I'd use thinner coats here, and your 1.5" brush. It doesn't take much paint to "fill" a sharp edge & losing its definition! 60 seconds tends to be the "Red-alert" time! Then, get away 'till the next days' coat! Faron

Thanks, FC. It was a lot of work, but worth it. As a side note, there is a white I used on one of my vanities mixed in Pittsburgh's Manor Hall line 15 years ago. That was some primo paint! (I tend to think PBG paint gets overlooked sometimes.) Perfect color and still in pristine shape today (so I didn't repaint that one). That was just before my days of meticulously documenting colors + formula on paint sticks, so I don't know what I used now. :/ sheryl8185, Zinsser does have a lot of primers, but they serve specific purposes or address specific problems. From standard priming to covering something icky. ;) I used Bullseye 123 (a latex so easy cleanup with water) on so many surfaces in our house back when we bought it. We had to repaint interior top to bottom. Drywall, wood, concrete block walls in utility room. Zinsser didn't have as many choices back then as I recall, and 1-2-3 served me well so I've remained loyal. (I used it on my kitchen cabs and it's my only regret. I suspect during their lifetime oil based polishes might have been used for cleaning, if I had a do-over opportunity -or the stamina, ha! - I'd use an oil-based primer because of oils in the wood.) If you suspect or know your bath vanity has had some oils applied (lemon oil, pledge, etc.) you might be safer with an oil-based primer. If there are no issues like that, imho Bullseye 1-2-3 should be just fine. Nor have I ever had noteworthy tannin bleed through from oak. But different woods of the same species can behave differently. (Did get some tannin bleed on a cedar chest stained dark that I painted white, but 1-2-3 still did the job even tho a couple areas 'yellowed' just a bit. Once I got a couple coats of Cab Coat on it, it's been fine.) If you're unsure and to want to play it a bit safer, use an oil-based primer like Cover Stain on the oak, or one of Zinsser's newer amped up latex primers (Bullseye 1-2-3 Plus). I've not used Plus, but did use their oil-based Cover Stain in an older house that had drywall water stains from an old leaking window. It's been two years, so far, so good. Stain is still hidden, paint it still clinging. ;)

@Laura Holland Thanks so much for the update. I am very glad you found someone to do a post-catalyzed conversion varnish on your cabinetry. That's the standard for finish longevity. How utterly horrible that the contractors have already messed it up. Yes, repairs are very difficult with the 2-part coatings. They absolutely should have been much more cautious. It's somewhat hard to mar a 2-part finish, so they must have been really careless. It sounds like you may have gotten the satin finish of the INSL-X. I have heard the semi-gloss is significantly more durable. If you do have it re-done, I wouldn't go with any Benjamin Moore products again. Find someone who can do Milesi, Renner, or ICA-Ilva. All three of those would be superior, but they may need to be sprayed as most formulations from those companies dry fast, and the 2-part formulas provide the most hardness and chemical resistance. Many people have reported finish failures with Advance even with a Stix Primer. INSL-X is a step above Advance based on my research. In fact, INSL-X is actually made by the same people who make Stix. Benjamin Moore bought the company.