Kitchen Cabinet Repaint with Cabinet Coat
funwithpaint
5 years ago
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rob333 (zone 7a)
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Cabinet Coat vs. Oil Based for kitchen cabinets
Comments (5)I am a total novice and just bought a quart of CC to try out b/c I too was afraid of it after hearing that it is hard to work with. Big mistake! I should have just bought the gallon. I LOVE how it goes on and how it levels. I got the high quality Corona brushes so maybe that has something to do with it but I swear it goes on easier than anything else I've applied and levels beautifully when dry. I have not applied it to vertical surfaces yet, just to my doors while laying flat -the doors, that is ;) Hopefully I won't have any trouble with the vertical parts. My Paint store was able to tint it to match the Ben Moore Paintcolor White Sand. I was pleasantly surprised b/c I thought I read that it only comes in white or off white. Good luck!...See MoreHelp with re-painting oak kitchen cabinets
Comments (4)I filled holes with wood filler and sanding. Actually I don't think the putty is intended for painting over. I'm not sure what type of BM paint you painted with, but Satin Impervo Waterbourne should last many years and is specifically for cabinets and woodwork. If you didn't use that type before, I'd recommend using that this time. It has a gentle gloss, glossier than a typical satin. My cabinets have a semi gloss type of sheen and feel smooth, not chalky. Latex is acrylic just like oil is alkyd. My opinion, and I've seen this opinion expressed on other forums, is that there is no reason to use oil paint inside with the high quality latex out there today. Also, oil yellows with time while latex does not. So, if you are worried about yellowing, definitely don't go with oil. If you use Satin Impervo , you do not need a clear coat over it unless you use a glaze treatment. If you glaze the cabinets, clear coat with polycrylic, not polyurethane to avoid yellowing. With satin impervo, it worked best for me to load it up with a lot of paint quickly with a roller, then use a brush or foam stick to gently smooth it out. That particular type of paint does not lend well to overbrushing. However, I've seen professional painters on this forum say they prefer brushing it all on. We non professionals like the roller first.) The roller by itself leaves the orange peel affect. I think I've covered all your questions with the exception of paint color. I think chantilly lace might work for you, but I'm not as familiar with all the choices as are others on these forums....See MoreHow do you re-paint kitchen cabinets?
Comments (4)Start by sanding the cabinets to give you a smooth surface (particularly important in areas where the paint may be chipped or peeling). Use a vacuum and tack cloth to wipe off the dust. If you are not going to remove all of the current paint, you will need to use a latex-based primer and paint to get the new paint to adhere to the door. But make sure you at least remove all flaking, chipped, peeling areas and use a light grit sandpaper to rough up the surface. Then clean the door with tack cloth and vacuum. The paint forum has recommendations for specific kinds of paint that are particularly good for cabinets. I did ours before I found GW so I used regular ole latex paint from Lowes and applied several thick coats of poly on top, but I also sanded our cabs down to bare wood before I started. Make sure you have a really good brush. I prefer Purdy. For flat surfaces, I used a 2 1/2" straight edge, but for the grooves, corners, and edges I used a small angled 1 1/2" brush. Don't thin the paint, but use small amounts of paint on the tip of the brush only (helps control drips). Do one side at a time. Let that side dry several days before doing the second side. Make sure you flip the doors between coats: Do the first side, let it dry for several days, then do the opposite side, let it dry for several days, put the second coat on the first side, etc. This way you can make sure you get an even color saturation on the whole door. Make sure you sand any drips, lumps or bumps and use the tack cloth to clean between coats. If you want a poly on top (I did that in order to make it a truly scrubbable surface, but I was using red paint, so color saturation was an issue), use fairly thick coats of poly -- that helps blend any brush strokes that might be visible and gives it a factory-look finish. Good luck. It took us 3 months to complete our cabs, but it was worth it!...See MoreLive in a condo. Where to repaint kitchen cabinets
Comments (3)You know, we just finished painting 2 sets of bathroom cabinets. We didn't spray them, but I have to say, you cannot see any brush marks at all. What we used - BIN primer, (smells a bit but hightly recommended on GW) 2 coats of Cabinet Coat paint. This paint got rave reviews on GW and I must say, I was not disappointed. Also - got a good quality Purdy brush (can't over state the importance of a good brush) and a small foam roller. We could have used the brush on everything, that paint levels so nicely and the Purdy brush really is great. But we did do the final coat with a foam roller made for smooth surfaces. No drips, no brush marks, looks great and we didn't have the hassle of masking off the whole room for spraying. We took the doors off but left the cabinets in place. If you are limited on space, I'd take the doors off and put them aside. Do the boxes, then a couple of doors at a time. I set my doors on my kitchen table, up on some canned goods. If you have an extra bedroom and a table you can do it without too big a disruption. I realize a kitchen is a lot more cabinets than a bathroom, but if you are patient and dont mind doing a few doors at a time you can do it without a lot of space....See Moregraywings123
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