Kitchen Cabinet Repaint with Cabinet Coat
8 years ago
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- 8 years ago
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Cabinet Coat vs. Oil Based for kitchen cabinets
Comments (5)I am a total novice and just bought a quart of CC to try out b/c I too was afraid of it after hearing that it is hard to work with. Big mistake! I should have just bought the gallon. I LOVE how it goes on and how it levels. I got the high quality Corona brushes so maybe that has something to do with it but I swear it goes on easier than anything else I've applied and levels beautifully when dry. I have not applied it to vertical surfaces yet, just to my doors while laying flat -the doors, that is ;) Hopefully I won't have any trouble with the vertical parts. My Paint store was able to tint it to match the Ben Moore Paintcolor White Sand. I was pleasantly surprised b/c I thought I read that it only comes in white or off white. Good luck!...See MoreHow to repaint kitchen cabinets ?
Comments (12)You know it's funny. I don't have a license to paint because it's not required in my state. I also do not have any references because I certainly do not want potential customers calling my previous customers and bothering them. I'm the best painter around. If you are looking for great painters, please try and find a friend that has used a painter and was happy. If you don't have any friends that have used painters then go into a real paint store and get some names. They will give you names of painters that have been around a while and pay their paint store bills. These are 2 good signs. Whether the cabinets should be stripped or removed and sprayed will depend on many factors. If the paint is in good condition, it may be okay to just paint over it. If there are brush marks on the cabinets that you want removed, then sanding down to raw wood may be a good idea, but this will be expensive. Two coats of high quality washable paint is standard, but painting over a green color may take a third coat....See MoreHow do you re-paint kitchen cabinets?
Comments (4)Start by sanding the cabinets to give you a smooth surface (particularly important in areas where the paint may be chipped or peeling). Use a vacuum and tack cloth to wipe off the dust. If you are not going to remove all of the current paint, you will need to use a latex-based primer and paint to get the new paint to adhere to the door. But make sure you at least remove all flaking, chipped, peeling areas and use a light grit sandpaper to rough up the surface. Then clean the door with tack cloth and vacuum. The paint forum has recommendations for specific kinds of paint that are particularly good for cabinets. I did ours before I found GW so I used regular ole latex paint from Lowes and applied several thick coats of poly on top, but I also sanded our cabs down to bare wood before I started. Make sure you have a really good brush. I prefer Purdy. For flat surfaces, I used a 2 1/2" straight edge, but for the grooves, corners, and edges I used a small angled 1 1/2" brush. Don't thin the paint, but use small amounts of paint on the tip of the brush only (helps control drips). Do one side at a time. Let that side dry several days before doing the second side. Make sure you flip the doors between coats: Do the first side, let it dry for several days, then do the opposite side, let it dry for several days, put the second coat on the first side, etc. This way you can make sure you get an even color saturation on the whole door. Make sure you sand any drips, lumps or bumps and use the tack cloth to clean between coats. If you want a poly on top (I did that in order to make it a truly scrubbable surface, but I was using red paint, so color saturation was an issue), use fairly thick coats of poly -- that helps blend any brush strokes that might be visible and gives it a factory-look finish. Good luck. It took us 3 months to complete our cabs, but it was worth it!...See Morerepainting kitchen cabinets
Comments (4)I'm in the process/purgatory of this project right now. blfenton is right - you don't need to sand down to the wood. Just scuff sanding with 120 grit paper to give the old finish tooth for the new finish to stick to. Due to some issues along the way (I foolishly stacked up some completed doors and they ended up sticking) I did sand some parts to completely remove some finished paint. When I did this I got down to bare wood in some places. Unfortunately, when I primed and painted again the sheen appears somewhat different where I got down to bare wood. Anyway, I'm just suggesting that it could be more headache/heartache than it's worth to sand so much. If you happen to find old streaks or runs I would make the effort to get those sanded out now. A few other words of advice that I've picked up from reading or wish someone had told me before I started - Don't use TSP to clean as it leaves a residue that can interfere with adhesion if not cleaned off properly. Vacuum off all dust and use a tack cloth. For dust in corners use a paintbrush to get small particles of dust out. Sometimes it's good to do two coats of primer. I wish I'd done this on my entire project - especially when I had some bare wood showing. Add flowtrol or penetrol to extend the open time and help enhance the leveling. Wipe up any paint that gets into areas that you're not currently working on - say you're working on the inset area and some paint gets onto a stile - wipe it off so that you're not painting into drying paint. Maintain a wet edge - I never really understood this one until I got started. I find rather than trying to stretch the brush strokes from one end to another it's better to lay down the paint in a couple of passes and then tip off and do one long brush stroke. Sometimes it's also easier to lay down paint with a roller and then tip off with a brush. Be careful not to thin too much or apply too much paint because you can experience runs or sags. When mistakes happen wipe up particles, remove hairs, etc. right away. If you wait too long it's my preference to actually wash off drying paint completely from the piece rather than trying to sand it out later (this is my personal preference). I also prefer to tape off and remove tape while paint is still very wet and then tape off again when I recoat. This has allowed me to catch bleed through on my hardwood floors. When I didn't do this for my drawer faces/boxes despite cutting the tape the tape did pull in some areas. If you're installing new hardware consider drilling holes before you paint to avoid damaging your finish coat. Also consider taping over where hinges go especially if they are inset hinges (probably not the correct term), I didn't do this and I'm dreading possibly scraping/sanding out such a small area. A dumb mistake I've made is not to move the paint closer to where I'm currently working and I've dripped on finished work - try not to move a wet brush over finished work. Don't paint out of the gallon but pour what you think you'll use into a smaller container. Your brush picks up dust as you go so it's best not to contaminate the whole gallon. Also, don't pour any remaining paint back into the container unless you strain it. Don't forget to stir well and close up the gallon asap. Another mistake I made was not to caulk the doors before I painted and paint has some microcracks where the inset panel is. Honestly I'm not great at caulking and I'm not positive how exactly you execute this properly but if you're doors are an inset style I'd look into it. Sorry if I dumped all of this here and you already know all of it. I've found this to be a really long and painstaking process so I'd write a book if I thought I could save anyone from some of my mistakes! Best of luck to you!!...See MoreRelated Professionals
Linton Hall Interior Designers & Decorators · Suisun City Interior Designers & Decorators · Midland Furniture & Accessories · North Bergen Furniture & Accessories · Tampa Furniture & Accessories · Walnut Creek Furniture & Accessories · Temple Terrace Furniture & Accessories · Gainesville Custom Artists · Pembroke Custom Artists · Saratoga Custom Artists · Seal Beach Custom Artists · Iowa City Lighting · Hanover Park Window Treatments · Rockford Window Treatments · La Jolla Window Treatments- 8 years ago
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