Read the can of B-I-N. If I recall correctly it is not supposed to be used for painting entire walls. Zinsser makes good primers. They are the maker of B-I-N. I called them and asked which primer to use for each project (Walls, bare wood, etc.). They were helpful and I was happy with the result. You know the first question anyone will want to know is " What are you painting?" Makes a big difference in which primer will work...BIG difference. Yes, I used the wrong primer for a specific project once, horrible results. Incidentally call any manufacturer; they should help. Not so necessarily with the local paint person at HD or Lowes.

Hey Sooz! First things first... * Did you get rid of all the wallpaper glue/residue?? * If not, I'd wait a couple days for the primer to "lock-in" any glue that may be trying to ooze it's way through the new primer. * "Full adhesion & hardness" plays more towards if you're painting a REAL slick surface like tile or glass. If takes a little more time to form the bond to tile, etc. * If you need to sand your primer, like for doors/trim, a day or two wait is appropriate. * Take a GOOD look at your dried primer film. If your walls are unusually thirsty, and it seems your primer has "disappeared", do a second full coat. * You MAY notice areas to repair at this point...check carefully! Example-there may be rough spots that are more visible now. Feather-sand/repair, and re-prime. * After (possible) 2nd coat of primer, let it dry 2-3 hrs. and paint away!! >>> Nothing wrong with either brand. I'd use a Satin or Semi-gloss in a main bath. Do you have/use a bath-fan?! >>> TWO FULL coats of paint though!!! Primer doesn't substitute for a coat of paint!! >>> Use good tools too. Cheap-o rollers/brushes sabotauge a good paint. Also: The word "Enamel" is meaningless. All it means is "any coating that forms a hard surface...". But it "sounds" good! Faron

Hi Bosun, It's not mandatory, but it can help if you're fussy...BECAUSE it'll give you a chance to "smooth-sand" the primer. (think of auto-body prep here....prime, sand, prime, etc.) Water-based primers can "fuzz" the grain some, particularly on softer woods. Soooo, letting primer dry for 1/2 a day or more (so it can harden-off and sand nicely), gives you a chance to re-smooth at this stage. >>> You'll need a "good full coat" of primer-but not so it sags obviously! >>> This'll provide a "sanding-cushion" layer. >>> I'd use a sanding-sponge in the 220-range. C2 has a nice SAP-primer (Sandable Acrylic Primer), but other top brands are sandable too. What types of wood are your trims? Faron

I'm interested to hear what the pros say. As a frequent DIYer, my opinion is the Zinser BIN is something of a specialty product. It works extremely well as a primer, and will work well in situations where other primers just plain won't work. Such as covering troublesome stains that will bleed through other primers, covering and sealing smoke/nicotine odors, adhering to surfaces that other primers will just peel off of. On the other hand, it is somewhat hard to apply (it is drippy and splatters quite a bit) It doesn't do much in the way of smoothing out the surface, it is somewhat hard to clean up, and the smell as you are applying it can be overpowering (while applying it over paneling in a closet I literally got tipsy from breathing the alcohol vapors) Plus it costs about three times as much as the more general purpose primers.