Forgive me if this wouldn't apply in your situation (I'm a bit fuzzy-headed with a cold!). We replaced two double hung Andersen windows (that we had put in a few years prior to the reno!) that extended below counter height. We replaced those with a 3-window Andersen Bow window. We stayed within the width of the original opening, had some lee-way with regards to height placement (we opted against counter height--the space between the faucet and window would be filled with water puddles on a regular basis in our home). Our windows are vinyl clad (Terratone) on the outside, pine on the inside (oak interior might have been an option?). We had the pine stained to match our cherry cabs (which abut the window), and had our cab manuf supply stained/finished cherry molding to match the cabs as well. In addition, we "upgraded" to the Tru-scene insect screens partially because the frames (for casement type windows) are are clad in wood on the inside, rather than metal, and therefore blend in with the window frames when stained to match. "Old" windows/old kitchen: New windows/new kitchen: HTH!

I met with the Kinetico rep this evening who also performed some tests on our tap water. He found the pH to be 5.8, the hardness to be 31 grains and checked the iron which I forgot to write down, but it wasn't as bad as before. He told me the possible reason the iron wasn't as bad is because, for the first test the water hadn't been used past the pressure tank (the source) so the acidic water had been sitting in the well accumulating iron from the pipe. He recommended the first & most important thing is to install a neutralizing filter which he recommends we rent for the two years until we switch to city water. Unfortunately that filter will actually add hardness so he wants to use the 2100s softener. Finally, I want to add the K5 drinking water RO filter which will attach to the refrigerator ice maker and have a spigot at the sink. Should we go ahead with this? Any comments will be appreciated.

Ahhh...so you've used Baquacil for the last 6 years until now? Yes? You didnt' say that in your first post. And right now you're using chlorine tabs in your skimmer and shocking the pool with a chlorine or non-chlorine based product for sanitizer instead of the Baquacil peroxide "shock"? Just trying to get this all straight. Are you in the middle of a Baquacil to chlorine conversion? That is a specific process, and it takes some patience to do, during which you'll see different water colors and clarity as you convert. Of course, as you already probably know using an OTO test (which shows yellow in the presence of chlorine and tests up to 5 ppm of Total Chlorine only)...a brownish red color means that you have a much higher level of Total Chlorine (Free Chlorine plus Combined Chloramines)in the water. You'd need to use an FAS/DPD drop test to very accurately determine up to 50 ppm how much Free Chlorine, Combined Chlorine and Total Chlorine you have. I use this test on my own pool frequently and it's very easy to use. I still stand by my advice. There are detailed instructions and help on TFP for Baquacil users who need/want to convert to a less expensive product, as well as immediate help with your specific issues. Cheers and I hope you get your problem solved and get back to enjoying your pool!

Embothrium I think it should be fine and if it dies I wouldn't loose any sleep over it because the scent of the flower is over rated in my opinion. Wish I got to smell the flower before I bought it. Oh well...ill just stick to fruit trees next time lol. Rhizo a lot of people have that assumption about sugarcane but no it grows in clumps and don't send out runner roots that spread like crazy. The ginger might have been a problem but I moved the tree, I don't want a headache down the road when the trunk get too big. It's now 3 feet from the fence.. Hopefully that's enough room for the trunk to grow.