Help. My chili is too acidic. What to do?
18 years ago
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- 18 years ago
- 18 years ago
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My potting soil is becoming too acidic
Comments (12)Those leaves look like they're suffering from iron chlorosis. The soil could be iron deficient, but iron chlorosis is often caused by alkalinity. I think it's far more likely that your potting soil is getting less acidic, not more acidic. Why do you think it's becoming more acidic? Have you had tests that show it, or is it because the leaves are turning yellow with green veins. If the former, I'll bet you're using a home test kit and I suspect it's not very accurate. If the latter, you've misdiagnosed alkaline conditions as acidic conditions. Get a small amount of fertilizer that says something like "for acid loving plants" or "rhododendron fertilizer" or "azalea fertilizer" (if it has some iron in it, that's even better). you probably want to get something that is water soluble/fast acting. If you're still thinking it's due to acidity, test it with one plant and see if it makes a difference. I really think you need to lower the pH of the soil, not raise it. One other thing to note is that you should make sure you're not over watering. Too much water can also cause chlorosis....See MoreDo my hydregenas need acid for their soil
Comments (3)Yes and no, you can grow hydrangeas in our Dallas/Fort Worth alkaline soil. I live in Hurst, just west of D/FW Airport, and planted mine with organic compost mixed with the local soil. I also add ammendments once a year to keep the alkalinity from getting too high. By the way, "assorted" hydrangeas generally are macrophyllas. Otherwise, hydrangea leaves develop iron chlorosis (the leaves turn yellow except for the leaf veins which remain green). Adding iron chelated liquid products or acidifying the soil with Hi-Yield Soil Sulphur, ammonium sulphate or aluminum sulphate (if you do not have azaleas) will also work. You can get these products at Calloway's, The Plant Shade, Redentas, Blooming Colors, Monday Landscape, HD Landscape, etc Some acidity is also needed to change the color of pink/blue macrophyllas but that is a difficult thing to do and monitor. Whites, of course, will not change color. Most colored hydrangeas will be pink here due to our alkalinity. Purchased blue/purple, they will revert to a shade of pink in time. The withering problem is an indication that (1) summer is approaching and our temperatures have reached into the mid to high 80s some days and (2) more water will be needed as June aproaches. Make sure that the plant has 3-4 inches of mulch past the drip line. Also make sure that it gets dappled shade (3-4 hours of sun) and is not planted in a windy location. Plants that get sun after 10-11am will show signs of sun burn. About 1 gallon of water twice a week is ok in spring but make it three days a week as summer arrives. Because you are not used to the watering requirements of hydrangeas, I suggest that you check it daily for 2-3 weeks until you see a pattern developing. Insert a finger to a depth of 3-4 inches. If it feels wet, the plant is getting too much water (this can cause root rot and fungal infections in the leaves). If the soil feels moist, take no action. If it feels dry or almost dry then water. As soon as you notice how often you are having to water, you can continue watering every "x" days. If you hear of a wind advisory during summer, water the night before if you can; wind causes unexpected wilting here in July and August. Wilting is a fact of life here for large leaf plants here in the summer. However, watered well, the plants recover on their own by bed time or next morning. I keep an eye on them daily as soon as we get into the mid 90s to 110s. If the plant looks VERY wilted, I water immediately; otherwise I wait... I increase the amount of water on a regular basis (to three days a week) when wilting persists past next morning or when plants show to be in VERY wilted conditions when I get home in the afternoons. This is where checking manually with a finger helps prevent watering too much. In the fall, reduce the amnount of water. And since the ground here does not freeze, remember to water during winter too. The plant will be semi-dormant and drop leaves but I still water them 1/2 gallon to 1 gallon weekly during those times. Sunscald is easy to identify & indicates that the plant is getting too much sun. You will notice the leaves in direct contact with the sun turning yellowish and later, affected areas dry/brown out. Fertilize in May and July with about 1/4 to 1/2 cup of cottonseed meal. If you have to prune, do it before July as flower buds for 2008 will begin developing then and you do not want to cut them off. Good luck barbie26, Luis...See Morea little help with my chili?
Comments (7)I would dump a couple teaspoons of that chili powder into the beans as they cook. I don't find it true that seasonings toughen beans, and they will pick up the flavor. Sautee the chicken in a little olive oil, add the onion, peppers and garlic as they are cooking.....then the tomatoes and cook about half an hour and by then the beans should be cooked..... But I think a pound of beans will be too much for 4 chicken breasts and a little over 4 cups of tomatoes. Just add beans and some of the cooking liquid until it looks to ba as "beany" as you like and reserve the rest of the beans for another day.... Mashed black bean dip is awesome....or that stuff they call cowboy caviar... Linda C...See MoreChili too hot....help
Comments (15)I've never been able to get up the nerve to put chocolate or cocoa into chili. Yes, I know it's not going to taste like a Snickers bar when used sparingly but never quite found it to be an appealing seasoning. Also, my experience is when I leave things like chili and sloppys sit the seasonings seem to build rather than diminish so I know if I overdid it from the start, it won't be better for me the next day. After tossing a few batches over the years, I've learned to try to hold back on seasonings, even on coleslaw and potato salad. You can always add more. I've heard of using potatoes to tone things down if overly salty and I'd imagine they'd absorb spices too. I thought about mentioning it but have never tried it so I don't know how well it works. I'm not so sure potatoes would be bad in chili anyway so I'd probably try it first. Taters, meat, potatoes? Nothing wrong with that. Makings of many a "casserole" or as we say in the nort'land "hotdish". I had perfected a chili recipe decades ago after years of trial and error and tweaking. It was fabulous. And I was making it so often I had it memorized... never wrote it down. Need I say more? Yep, I got all chilied out, didn't make it for a long time and if I did write it down, I never found where I put the recipe. :( So when I do make it now it's back to experiment. In my old age, I've found that I use less seasoning than years back. I like things a bit more mild. I've always used beer in chili and have quit with packets of seasoning. Just too much salt in there for me these days. I like to get a lot of the seasoning from things like different sausage. I'll use a "hot" pork sausage, some pepperoni even use jarred/canned spaghetti sauce and things like that rather than the packets or "kits", and of course lots of onion, some garlic, Worcestershire, and things like that spice it up without being overpowering. And though unsolicited, I'm a thick chili person. Don't like it soupy and watery. That's soup, not chili. I like it so I can scoop it up with crackers and have very little juice in the bottom of the bowl. Yeah, I'm a carnivore, give me meat!...See More- 18 years ago
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