My potting soil is becoming too acidic
kalika
16 years ago
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jean001
16 years agosqueeze
16 years agoRelated Discussions
soil too acidic
Comments (2)definitely a good idea to do a soil test to see where you're at. Wood ashes work faster than lime, so you could use some of both, for short term ammendment and then the longer term fix. (do they also make "quick acting" lime? For some reason I think I've seen it.) I started with a PH of 5.4 and put down regular dolomitic lime in March, and had a fine garden that year. Even if it takes 3 years to complete its job, it does start acting right away. The normal time to add is in the fall, but just do it asap. And if you still have too low a ph you can choose low ph veggies like potatoes to grow :)...See MoreMulch under soil too acidic?
Comments (5)Some of the best posters in these forums have already given you excellent advice, let me add my 0.02. As they say, you have to add N and raise the pH, but by no means pull the mulch out. The wood chips have no N, but they have significant amounts of P and K, that will be helpful over the long term. They will also provide plenty of organic matter. Let me also add that many plants will go deeper than 4 (or 8) inches, so that the lower pH zone will not affect them. You could also instruct the gardeners to plant sensitive vegetables deeper for a couple of years. These include greens, brassica, and peas. Your site will probably not be great for the first two years for some small-rooted greens, things like lettuce and tatsoi. But the tomatoes, potatoes, cucurbitas, carrots or radicchio, will be unaffected. My guess is that the beans will be unaffected also. Now, how to raise pH and nitrogen on the cheap. For one acre, I think you are looking at 1-2 tons of lime or the same weight in wood ash. You might find it cheaper to simply give trash cans to people who heat with wood (I save and use all my wood ash), collect the cans in March, and spread right away. One good rain and you are good to go. Spread it everywhere as all plants will benefit. Wood ash is a significantly better fertilizer than lime. For the N, you are looking at either 10 tons of chicken manure or some 400 lbs of urea (I think that would be $160). Spread it only where needed. It will not be needed under the beans or carrots, for example. Long term wood chips make soil as good as other compost, and as neutral. Even clover will grow vigorously in it. I plant in wood chips all the time, following a succession rule (first potatoes, then squashes and cukes, then tomatoes or beans). I sprinkle urea on top. I get to compost, mulch and garden in one shot, at the expense of slightly reduced yields. For cabbage, chard, beets, tell your gardeners to put more lime for all and more urea for all except beets at the base of the plant....See MoreSoil too acid
Comments (10)Since you have acid soil over a large area, changing it will be an on-going, long-term and possibly futile process. If you can't put in raised beds, with "imported" top soil, for your veggies and flowers that don't like acid soil, can you just learn to appreciate the acid-loving plants and shrubs, and grow them for the most part? You could then concentrate the pH changing efforts on the areas where you HAVE to change to grow certain plants. Did you have a soil test done, sending samples away, or did you use one of the home-tests? The home-tests can be inaccurate, so if it wasn't done in a lab, go to your county Extension office and get a free test kit and send it off. You might be surprised at the results - still acid but not horrible. Do tell the lab that you are using organic methods, as this would change their recommendations. Of course, if you DID send away for your testing, my apologies for doubting you. As the above posters implied, the test sheet you get back should say how much lime to add to change the pH. Since the lime acts reasonably quickly, and dolomitic lime works slowly, a mix of the two would last longer....See MoreNeed Acidic Potting Soil
Comments (6)Thanks for the tips. I think I might be over watering. I've got to get a handle on that. I do my best with sticking my finger in the soil the first few inches and if it feels dry then I water. Maybe the "way" I water is no good? I put them in shallow pots to catch the water flow from the bottom and then totally soak the plant for about 20 minutes then I lift them out to drain. They drain well, I also have screen to cover the drain holes so no soil runs out. Halime...See Morebpgreen
16 years agocurtludwig
16 years agokalika
16 years agokalika
16 years agojdwhitaker
16 years agojean001
16 years agobpgreen
16 years agoesther_opal
16 years agokalika
16 years ago
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