Despite crashboombang's interesting idea (and fabulous name!), I think you will never get anything to work with your lovely old brick, and it sounds like a huge messy task. The baseboard, in my view, would make the space more residential in feeling than leaving it out, but I think it's a fine idea to wait until you've done everything else, and see how you feel then. As to the wall, I'd think about painting it the color of the ceiling, and then I'd hang a whacking big mirror in a dull gold frame on it for sparkle, drama, and relief from the darkness. Assuming you can find one without having to sell one of your children....

It's the case that in order to understand the particulars, it's necessary to understand the overall, which I cannot do from your picture. At first, I thought the wall was extending to the left (as facing the slope) and continuing on below the fence, where you have "planters" marked on the plan. Now I'm thinking it is at the right where you have an elevation differential ...?? In order to understand this better, you need to show the whole back yard from the view point of back of house at center of wall, using a series of slightly overlapping photos that pan from left to right. Now I think I understand why you were speaking about such a large wall for the proposed portion. From my perspective, still without knowing much, this seems like an inefficient plan. Maybe I'll find out I'm wrong, but that's where it seems like it's going as of now. I don't know how true to the plan you intend to be, but there are errors in the way you are designing the patio edge, both in the way the edge intersects with the wall and in the surplus of tight radius curves along one side. It's going to be better to simplify/smooth that line.

You can hard wire (in a suitable for the purpose box) so long as a safe disconnection means is supplied. Wire and connector temperature ratings have to be observed. Most modern higher current oven stacks and induction cooktops are intended to be hard wired. If the range comes with a cord and plug, then this should be used depending on what the installation instructions allow. I would also seriously consider recessing the [a replacement] receptacle box into the floor but would want to review the Code in case it was prohibited in kitchens due to liquid spill hazard (as it is on countertops). A wall recess may also work.

There isn’t enough tile left over, and there are 5 sconces in the room, so it would involve quite a bit to tile work. My project manager, who is a carpenter, suggest a wood piece to match the window frames & medicine cabinet but I think it would look too clunky. I spoke to a glass and mirror shop and they suggested custom acrylic mirror instead of a glass mirror (less fragile). I’m leaning towards this option. How large should the mirror plate surrounding the sconce’s backplate be. Will one inch around the perimeter work or should I go biggger?? Pencil polish edge or beveled? Acrylic MIrror