First I want to apologize for such a long post. But, this is something I have already experienced and thought I would share these ideas. One of the most overlooked losses of heat is through the floor. Check the skirting around the trailer to see if it is vented. If it is, consider putting mostly non vented skirting on the north side or plant wind blocking year round shrubbery. We have a trailer in Weatherford TX that was freezing us to death until I did this. Since you stated the insulation is falling off underneath, sounds like you have the same problems I had. I cut the plastic canvas and removed all old insulation. It was all settled to the middle. Then I went and got some barrier foil insulation (foil lined bubble wrap) and stapled it about an inch below the subfloor in each space between the floor joists. Next, I got some plastic mesh screen for holding cellulose insulation and stretched it tight and fir stripped it across the floor joists and blew in cellulose insulation in between each floor joists. It wasn't easy but the difference it made was unbelievable. Most lumber yards let you use the machine to blow in the insulation free if you buy the minimum amount of insulation. I had to buy 10 bales a 7.00 a bale. While you are under there, you will be able to see all the water lines and the old HVAC ducting. If the ducting is seperated, either reattach the pieces back together or tape the holes off with foil tape. I would just tape them off unless you intend on replacing the HVAC. Then consider replacing the entire duct with flex duct. The ducting on most older trailers I have seen are uninsulated metal, leak air and are not very efficient. Mine was channeling cold air up through the floor where the registers were. While under there, it would be a good time to check the water lines as well... Odds are, if you have a '78 model, the insulation in the ceiling is blown in. My '78 Breck had clear plastic stapled to the trusses and insulation blown on top of it. This was covered with 1/4" fiberboard. The interior walls were just paneling and thin fiberboard directly nailed to the the studs. We did take this out, rewire the entire trailer and go back with 7/16" OSB sheathing on the walls and ceiling. Then we blew regular drywall accoustics to the ceilings and walls and it looks like sheetrock inside. One last thing to note... If the water heater has a door outside for access, consider removing the door and attaching a piece of ductboard (foil lined fiberglass insulation board)to its entire inside surface. Be sure to cut out for the vents if it is a gas or propane water heater. James

DruidClark, While the advertised R-values for FG and cellulose may be fairly close, in application they are not. As people reading this thread are discovering, air infiltration is an absolute killer when it comes to the thermal efficiencies of the envelope of a house. The big "pro" for cells is that when blown in to a stud/joist/rafter bay and dense-packed, they knit together and do a fabulous job at eliminating air infiltration. The net effect is far superior to that achieved when using FG batts, even with a vabor barrier. The reason is that FG batts are never installed quite right. "Quite right" means NO GAPS between the batt face and the framing. Gaps in the corners of the framing bays allow convective loops to occur. Doesn't sound like a big deal, but it's a big negative. Any type of air washing over the surface of FG batts also decreases the efective R-value of the insulation. That's why Tyvek was first brought to market...trivia tidbit moment...Tyvek was designed to be laid over FG batts installed on attic floors to prevent winter air washes in the attic from penetrating into the batts and lowering the effective insulative value of the insulation. With vapor barriers on the interior side of the FG (heating climates) and housewraps on the exterior, we're seeing better building practices when it comes to thermal envelopes...but the true value lays in the fine detailing f the barriers. And that detailing still has a way to go. Things are better than they were, but they can get better yet again. Overall? Dense-packed cellulose far outperforms FG batts. Even blown in FG. It outperforms it in terms if air infiltration, sound deadening, absorbing radiant energy, and handling water vapor that may happen to get past whatever barrier there is and get into the framing bay. It's better at resisting/slowing the spread of fire. My only negative with cellulose is when remodeling. I'd much prefer to crack open a wall of FG during a remodel than open up a wall filled with cellulose. I guess I can't have it all.(g) Minimizing air infiltration is the most effective way for a homeowner to lower their energy use year-round. Rigid foam board is the homeowner's friend. However, tightening up a house must be done using the whole-house approach. Moisture sources (basement/cooking/bathing/HVAC) need to be addressed in conjunction with the air sealing.

Caroline I don't live in Rapid City. I live N of Pierre. Its even closer than you think. Someone mentioned a humidifier. I can tell you right now it makes a huge difference. My DH keeps telling me, he can't believe how much warmer it feels in the house when it is on. I think it is the moisture that makes it feel warmer. I can tell the difference right away. The minute I turn the heat on in the fall I start the humidifier. I used to have two of the gallon ones going at the same time. A few years ago I went to a yard sale and someone had one of the console ones. I think I paid about 5 dollars for it. for it. It runs all the time now. Every night I have to fill at least one of the 3 gallon tanks but it is worth it to me. WE have our thermostat on 57 at night and after I come home from work we turn it up but only about to 65

That was an incredible article! And describes exactly what my problem is. Thank you. I mentioned that there had been panelling or wainscoting. This was is one of the smaller rooms. Unfortunately it had been covered with materials that blocked any vapour movement. And it was also riddled with woodworm, so it had to go. The wood supports nailed into the bricks were fine at higher levels, but had rotted closer to the ground - capillary action with ground water which I can do nothing about. Even if I removed my current floor and waterproofed it, the fact that I have neighbours sharing both inside walls means that their water will just come over any barriers. And replacing the floor is also (currently) out of my budget. So far, the lime plaster I have has softened and crumbled in the areas where damp has come through because of the uncovered and currently unused chimney, near the single glazed and rotten windows and near the broken guttering. Only a small area has been affected by the groundwater. I might not need to replace all plastering. Where the wainscoting has been taken doen, there is bare brick. But replacing this wainscoting would be a great idea, especially if I can then plaster and paint with a breathable colour on top. It also means I can hide gas and water pipes behind them. I suppose the last layer lasted for 80 years, although the woodworm had a party for most of that time. Perhaps there are non-wood breathable materials I could use? Wood would be an expensive option for the square footage. And how clever would it be to add a layer of cellulose or sheepswool under this? Or an insulation material which can deal with damp? However, internal humidity will be a lot higher soon, due to the replacement of windows (they have trickle vents, but a trickle is nothing compared to the air movement I have now!), new and insulated roof, blocking the chimney opening with a gasfire flue and replacement of gaps in the mortar. That's my fear - that even by having a house that lets moisture in and out, it's still pretty airtight and keeps the inside too humid. And a complete ventilation system is quite expensive over here, although I'll have a unit placed in the bathroom. With the latest European EPC standards, my refusal to have damp proof chemicals, thick impermeable insulation and artificial ventilation means the value of my house suffers. But they can change what they want when I'm in a retirement home! Maybe the regulations will have accepted that most of their recommendations for older houses are incorrect unless they are knocked down and rebuilt which would be a real pity. Thanks for that article. Absolutely brilliant! So next question: is wooden wainscoting the only breathable option? Are there other products out there, both modern or traditional looking, that would work as wainscoting panels? And would I be adding to the problem by sticking a layer of hygroscopic insulation between it (might mean the dog barks less loudly!). And apart from leaving the windows open in summer and winter for 20 minutes a day (prefer to save the heat in the winter), what other ways might I increase ventilation/reduce condensation into the brickwork without burning a hole in my pocket? Thanks AGAIN!!! Photo shows the remnants of original wainscoting supports and brick underneath. Sarah.