Gosh, I wish I knew your first name. I hate calling you ajsmama all the time. LOL. Anyway, look for invisable thread. I can't remember what it's called anymore, but a clerk at a fabric store will know. It's fine and clear just for projects like this. Think it's made out of nylon maybe?

Decided I may as well look it up. I was right on both counts. Name and what it's made of. Guess I can trust my brain after a good nights sleep and a hand full of Hershey's dark chocolate chips. LOL.

Here is a link that might be useful: Nylon thread @ Joann.com

I used the stripes to determine how many tabs I used. I determined which stripe I wanted on the leading edge of the panel (in your picture it's the red/tan stripe) and placed a tab at each stripe of that color. It gives a nice even look to the pleats when it's on the rod. I'm sure you could space the tabs a certain distance apart and that would work out also, it would just give a different look to the finished curtain. You might try pinning the tabs in place and putting it on the rod to see which way you like it best before you begin sewing. I know I spent a lot of time experimenting before I decided how I wanted to do mine.

Totally Confused

AJ, 'totally' is right. You need to experiment with your fabric before you commit to anything.

Your fabric is light and silky - the opposite of my heavy cotton. It's going to hang differently once you line it or get the back facing on, so that may also help determine the number of tabs you put on. Fabric glue would bleed right through that light fabric and show on the front.

If I were you, I'd first see if you can find enough of that fabric to make all the treatments you need. If you can't you're doing all this planning for your stripes, etc for nothing.

Then if you DO find enough, I'd line it, as it adds weight to the WTs and make them look much better and hang better. I'd also put drapery weights (Joann's) in the bottom side of each panel inside the hem.

'Just' had a nice suggestion if you don't want the thread to show. Personally, I just match the background, or the color that is most apparent in it and use that, as I have not had good luck with the invisible thread. It break so often that I don't use it.

Since you asked me if I'd make panels for you, (and I work so many hours I can barely make them for myself) I'd try to find someone local who can make them for you or help guide you. If you can find more of that striped fabric inexpensively, you're ahead of the game, and maybe can have someone make it up beautifully for you for not too much $$.

I spent hours yesterday cutting my fabric evenly to start the process, and then carefully measuring the repeats and making sure I have them matched from panel to panel, and have the same design at the top for the valances I'll make for the back bay window where I can't use panels. I probably planned and cut and measured for 4 hours before I sewed a stitch.

I can tell that you are excited and anxious to get going, but spending the 'up front' time that you need to planning them will make for a much better outcome in the end. Take the time and you can make something you'll be proud of and will look great for a long time.

I would not use glue. It might affect the way the fabric drapes. Do you know where the blind stitch is on your machine? On mine the picture looks like a zig zag with 3 straight stitches in between. You fold and press your hem. Basting it in place is easier than hemming. But baste about an inch down from the "top" of the hem as seen from the back.

Oh, heck: here's something I found that explains it all better....!

Here is a link that might be useful: blind hemming tutorial

totally - 'd like to see pics of your curtains when you can post them.

Becky - I've got some invisible thread, forget what I used it on but it is hard to work with. BTW, I just created new email account for GW members to contact me, I've given so many details of my life and builder that I really don't want to give my name, but you can call me Shelly ;-)

my3dogs - thanks, DH is looking in another JL today (took DD to swim lessons) for more fabric, and I did email my dad's cousin in RI to see if she'd look for me. I may see if my aunt is up to making panels for me - she gave me a bunch of dress patterns for DD last year so I think she's given up on sewing, but panels should be easier than the dresses she was always making for her granddaughter. If not, as you said, $2/yd instead of $18/yd goes a long way in hiring someone.

linnea - I know where the blind stitch setting is, there is no special foot on my $100 machine. It was the folding that I didn't understand when I was trying to blindstitch DH's dark brown cords, so I just used matching thread. The fabric in the link you showed was a little dark so I'm not sure I saw clearly how to do it, but I'll try on some scrap fabric. Or maybe just finish the hem so it doesn't fray, then try blind-stitching by hand?

If I can't find enough for panels for the whole LR I think I'll either do inside-mount roman blinds with this material and my current blind HW, and maybe add a valance for the height though I don't think it gives the nice long line of floor-length panels, or maybe I'll go with my original curtains in the LR and use the striped fabric for the DR. The DR wall color is just 1 lighter on the BM strip than the LR. I'm also trying to make that a more "formal" room than the LR, though I don't know how formal I can get with oak furniture and open to the stairs/foyer.

(That's the green panel that is same pattern as the beige panels I was going to use in LR hung over the chair)

Yes, the back wall is draker (same color as LR) than the rest of the DR. I was thinking it would make the room look bigger by making that wall recede.

This is the valance I'm thinking about making - more formal for DR, I may just go with panels in LR if I find enough fabric.

my3dogs, interesting what you said about your 4 hours planning! I am starting to get back into sewing again (I did it long ago and was a complete amateur back then), but was intimidated by the machine, even though I used to use it w/o issue. My mom told me it's a lot like painting-- the prep work is the hardest part. After messing with the machine, I decided she was right! I spend much longer measuring/cutting straight/planning than I do actually sewing.

I donÂt use a special foot for this. As long as you have one that will take zig zag it will work.

OK, a picture is better, but try this. Practicing is a good idea anyway. Mark where you want your hem fold to be with chalk. Zig zag the bottom edge, serge, or turn a small amount under, like 3/8s to half an inch, and stitch it flat. I do the last one. Fold on your hem line and press. Turn panel over so wrong side faces up. Most of panel is to your left. Hem is on the right side. Pin down your folded hem or baste. I would hand baste: just a quick long running stitch. Do it about 1 inch down from the top edge on the folded over hem. Now, fold the hem fabric back again, to the RIGHT. If you looked at it sideways (cross section) it would look like a backwards "S". The first small hem you stitched down should be on your right. Adjust the fold you just made (Not the ironed one) so just a small amount of the fabric peeks out on the right, like ¼ to 3/8". Panel is still turned WRONG SIDE up.

The blind stitch has single zig zags (looking like a single sideways "V") separated by several plain straight stitches. Like one V to 5 plain straight stitches. You want the PLAIN stitches going onto the small hem you folded and stitched down. You want the POINT of the zig zag V to just catch a few threads of the fold that is to the left. Just like hand blind hemming, you donÂt need to catch more than a few threads of that fold to secure it. If the V point penetrates too far into that fold, the stitch will be visible on the other side. If some of the Vs fall short and donÂt catch, thatÂs ok. You donÂt need every inch tacked down.

I hope this helps.

Right now I have no idea how to post pictures, or any pictures to post for that matter. Maybe when DD is home for spring break in a couple weeks she can help me.

Sorry to be so little help,
Totally Confused

FYI, hand stitched hems are the gold standard in draperies. That blind hem stitch on your machine looks nothing like the blind hem stitch on professional treatments. I'd go with hand stitched hems. Much easier and the look is beautiful.

Good luck!

Ellen

Well, still looking for more fabric b/c DH struck out yesterday (he's so sweet sometimes, this week was one of them, he went to 3 different places and one of them twice looking for this fabric for me). I may just have to use the stripes in the DR.

Thanks Ellen - I was thinking to have it look professional I needed to use the machine, and I will for the side seams just b/c they're so long and to finish the hems so they don't fray, but I think I could very easily blind-stitch the top and bottom hems so they don't show. Not that my grandma called it a blind stitch, that was just the way she hemmed things. I never did learn to "sew" (from a pattern) from her but she did teach me how to mend things. Plus I do embroidery and hand-quilting so a straight 5ft hem isn't too hard. Now an 8ft side seam....

ajsmama, I really like the way the valance is gathered on the rod on the pic of the set-up you like. I'd never seen one done that way before. With most of the gathers done on each end.

I'm going to need help (or hire someone) to do that - see how it's tapered? It's in the new Country Curtains catalog, but the pic that I posted from their website is better. I like that it will hide the brackets - and I probably have 2 Continental rods in the basement, or can buy them inexpensively. Do you think that's a look that's more suited to the DR than my LR/media room?