A few years ago, I purchased EasyClosets systems to increase the utility of closets in a 1950's-era ranch. It worked out pretty well. The systems are easy to install (the hardest part is probably finding your wall studs, followed by cutting the metal closet rods to length - or vice versa, if you're not comfortable with a hacksaw), and they provided a lot of extra hardware for putting the pieces together. One closet really fought me on the installation of the top shelf pieces, I suspect because the back wall was a bit bowed, but the other three units installed without problem. I didn't order any components with drawers, as I just don't trust cam locks and MDF to provide durable, long-lasting drawers. The biggest problem I've had was when disassembling and removing a unit to repaint the closet, a cam lock got stuck and ended up breaking a pretty large chip out of one of the shelves. It's at a bottom, back corner so with a bit of epoxy it's barely noticeable, but it's a reminder of one of the drawbacks of that type of assembly. In use, the closets have proved very durable, and they made the closets a lot more functional. My preference would be to have a similar system in solid wood for my current home; I now have walk-in closets that could use some TLC, but I would be reluctant to remove the (paint grade, pine) shelving that's currently in place to install something other than another solid wood product, and I wouldn't mind adding some drawers or cabinetry where I would want some quality joinery as opposed to screws or cam locks. If you're going for pure "bang for the buck", Rubbermaid closet kits are a lot cheaper - albeit more cumbersome to install and a lot less attractive. The EasyCloset systems proved to be a selling point when we moved; they looked pretty much as good as new, the hardware components (belt rack, tie rack) are quite solid, and while the closet systems are recognizably melamine they blended quite well with the natural oak in the house, including the closet trim.

Where vertical space matters and/or we don't care about being able to slide the clothes hung up, we just don't use the rod brackets or rod (we just put the clothes hangers right on the 'shelf.') If you have the 12" deep shelves, you could change them out to the 16" deep shelving if you want more depth for hanging things (i.e., when not using the rod brackets.) (We use this exact ClosetMaid ShelfTrack system in all our closets - our master closet looks alot like your photos.)

I too am trying to identify the customized closet systems in my new condo, so I can buy some additional shelves. I can't believe they don't put their name or logo somewhere ! I too have those oval hanging rods, but my shelves are on moveable pegs for support (thankfully).

The weight for that closet system should be supported solely by the header track. Its important to screw it into wood. The vertical shelf supports have to be anchored to the wall so the shelves can be attached. I have pocket doors and i saw them as they were framed in so i have a bit of an idea how the inside looks. The header should have no problem being screwed into the wall OVER the door. There should be a header over the door, probably transitioning to 18“ on center studs to the right of the door. The difficulty will be with the vertical supports. In my situation, theres a cage made with what looked like 1x3s that the open doors slides into. You can screw the vertical supports into that wood but you must be careful with the size screw. Too long screws will go into the door. Im not sure how you would secure it if there isnt a ’stud’ available to screw into. You would need support for a hollow wall, like a drywall anchor. You would need something super shallow as to not interfere with the door. I suggest you plan this while the wall is open for the door installation. Take pictures and measurements to use when youre ready to hang your shelves. Maybe ask the door hanger for advice. Good luck.