I'd let it sufficiently cure then sand it down, reprime (you did prime before painting, right?) and then topcoat again. Depending on your skills, you may be able to use a wood chisel to shave the drippy runs off, as well as shaving some of the thicker sections off as well. But you need to not gouge the underlaying wood. What type of ply did you use? for paint grade, I use birch ply. Lesser face grades of ply (BC and below) and rougher wood types (fir, pine, etc) can result in uneveness in the final coat due to the poorer quality veneer telegraphing through film finishes. Don't overload the brush when you paint. Dip it about 1/2" to 1" into the paint, then touch the brush to both sides of the container to take some of the excess paint off the brush. Remember that painting is several thin layers (primer/paint/paint) appplied on top of one another, not one thick coat. Mongo

We bought a very expensive cover from a company in Nevada specifically designed for these long swim spas that was supposed to roll up from one side to the other, and occupy a relatively small footprint at one end when rolled up. It had fiberglass or similar arches built in to it that were supposed to created a mounded cover that would shed water. Almost immediately the cover's layers began to separate down the middle and reveal that they were not sewn together at all; the main mechanism of heat capture was revealed as a very thin piece of space blanket like material, which would have been ok if all the layers had stayed together; the hoops, instead of standing up horizontally in curves across the width of the pool (8.5') along the length of it (15'), laid down almost immediately and when rained upon collected many heavy gallons of water that had to be broomed off before the cover could be removed; and each time it collected standing water it got more and more waterlogged, until it was a sodden mess and could barely be removed by two adults. I sent the company pictures of the problems within six months, but they had left off their website the guarantee instructions which were included in the shipping container--- which was so large four men had to open it and get the cover out---- that stated the guarantee was void unless the owner cleaned the vinyl-permeated canvas top monthly with saddle soap of a certain brand! They later did add that to their website, but by then the company had changed names and was selling the covers under a different llc. Obviously I would not have purchased the cover if that requirement had been mentioned on their site at the time! Our deck was designed to accommodate this particular swim spa and we did not plan for a motorized safety cover because of the way the sides curved. I wish we had tried harder with that manufacturer to devise a custom solution (as my DH suggested), but this failed cover had just come on the market and at $2300 it was a better buy than trying to devise custom runners for the safety cover. When it go to the point that I could not get the cover off myself and use the swimming function for rehab post shoulder surgery, I decided to design a cover myself. The upholsterer in town makes custom boat covers, so we got together several times to work out a design that could be easily removed both to use and to get off the standing water that is inevitable with anything of that length of span.

nidnay - That is another good idea! A partially closed cabinet. As I thought about it more, I realized that if I was doing formal entertaining then I'd clean out the lockers anyway and put the coats and shoes where they actually belong, so maybe having doors on the lockers really isn't necessary at all. herbflavor - Oh he's going to be very busy very soon! lol, though this will have to wait until the rest of the kitchen is done because my fridge is currently in this spot. I have to figure it out before I can finalize the island plan though. I'm really liking your freestanding chair/bench idea and lockers on the door side wall, because I could stack them and put two wide lower ones for the kids and two high ones for the grownups and get that bench out of the way if we had some kind of gathering where we didn't want congestion there. Maybe some high wall storage on the 4' wall for other gear that seems to end up on my kitchen floors periodically like soccer and swim bags, or my husbands bow because if he's going to practice with it, it MUST be kept by the back door. {insert eye-roll}

Ask and you shall receive.... The Kitchen and stairs are located as follows: For reference, the garage would go to the left of this, past the back of the house, and pick up that door to the "north" of the stairs (not shown, but labeled, top left) The stairs and kitchen are an exterior wall. No windows until you get to the kitchen sink. 3D Overview: That wall running through the refrigerator is the existing pantry area and would be beamed at about 9'. to match heights with the back room. The opening in the kitchen wall is new also--currently just two 30" doors on either end. It has a post in the middle due to a steam line that can't move. Plumbing in the back area does not need to stay. All can move. Current 6x9 bathroom is where the proposed laundry is, if that makes sense. Current wall location does not matter--it's already stripped and ready to pull. I just didn't feel 6' wide was enough for a laundry. The mudroom is basically the space that was left over after trying to accommodate both rear doors, and fit in the walk in pantry, laundry, and a half bath. All of those elements need to be in here in some respect. For scale, the entire house is almost 5000 square feet above grade. This 15.5x21.5 back room is just open, disorganized space (apart from the tiny 6x6 laundry).