removing lathe and plaster, insulating, drywalling
billtron
17 years ago
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housekeeping
17 years agoRelated Discussions
Lathe and plaster removal for rotten wood
Comments (1)"the studs are 90% eaten" How are you checking studs in an attic? "termite droppings" Are you shure you are even seeing termite damage? Carpenter ants are the ones that usually leave visible droppings....See Moreplaster ceiling: remove before drywall?
Comments (2)Old plaster is extremely heavy. One fairly small section of our ceiling fell down during demolition and when it hit a window sill it broke the sill right off the window. Adding some 2x4s furring strips may not support and keep the ceiling level very long if the weight of the plaster is pulling it away from the joists above. It also limits your ability to adjust the height up and down to get rid of swales or uneven areas. We had the our dining room/kitchen plaster ceiling removed (1st floor) and they ran a level line across the room to find the lowest point in the joists. The joists were in good shape (no cracks or major spots cut away), so they sistered 2x4's to the side of each joist and made the bottom of the 2x4's level. The new drywall was attached to the level 2x4's. The original wall height was about 8'4" and the plaster was 1" thick, so they were able to even it out without getting the ceiling too low. Bruce...See Moreremove plaster and lath on exterior to add insulation?
Comments (9)Cellulose insulation will settle to some degree, but the R-value retained even after settling is far superior to what you have now. In addition, cellulose adds some measure of air sealing as well; you will notice the difference as you do each room, especially if you are replacing the windows. Whether you have windows replaced professionally or doing it yourself, make sure that the window sashes are caulked properly after installation ensure proper sealing. A poorly installed window will negate your investment in the product. Also, it is not impossible to match textured plaster finishes. Look for someone in your area skilled at plaster work, review them carefully, ask to see their previous work, ask for references -- and CALL THEM. I've hired plaster finishers to to patching when we've remodeled areas that have sand or other texture and a good one is worth his/her weight in gold. It is not impossible, but it takes skill. Don't destroy your original plaster if it is in good condition, it will provide a durable and unique finish and I would say that its uniqueness has historic value. Oyster shells in the finish are pretty darn unique I'd say and you should be proud to have such a treasure....See Moredrywalling over old drywall and plaster lathe
Comments (1)You say that the drywall is breaking down. It normally won't break down unless it has gotten damp or wet. I think before you cover anything up you should determine if there is a problem. If there is correct if first. The plaster loosening up is fairly common. It could be for a number of reason, but I think you should still be sure that there isn't moisture problem there too. As far as covering the existing walls without removing the old stuff.....I have personlly covered I would guess 40 or 50 rooms and ceilings over the years without tearing out the old stuff. Is there insulation in the walls and will you ever need it there? Celulose can be blown in from the inside and, of course, that would be done first. If the walls aren't in too bad of shape I go over everything with 3/8" drywall and use lots of screws. Where you are going over plaster and lathe you will sometimes hit studs, but often just the lathe. The screws into the lathe will hold as long as you use lots of screws. Over the drywall you will have to locate and hit the studs with screws. Also on going over the drywall, you will have to end the pieces over a stud just as if you were applying it to bare studded walls. If you end it between studs there will be nothing to hold the edges and the job will be ruined. When I go over existing walls I make sure that any wiring that might be needed is done first. If necessary I make holes to run wire. If there are any real uneven spots on the wall I shim out the low spots with scrap pieces of 1/4" or 1/8" luan or paneling. I don't remove the door and window casings or the baseboards. I run the drywall right up against the casing and fill in any gaps with mud when I am taping. Now a lot of remodelers won't agree with going ovre the existing, but I've never had a problem as long as I've used plenty of screws that are long enough to penetrate the drywall or the plaster. If the walls or ceilings are terribly uneven you might have to use 1/2", but I've always used 3/8"....See Moretryinbrian
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