Is this email about my walnut counter legit?
13 years ago
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- 13 years ago
- 13 years ago
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Question about black walnut countertops
Comments (5)The numbers in Tom999's post are the Janka hardness numbers for commercially available US hardwoods. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia The Janka hardness test measures the hardness of wood. It involves measuring the force required to embed an 11.28 mm (0.444 in) steel ball into wood to half its diameter. This method was chosen so that the result would leave an indention 100 mm² (0.16 sq in) in size. It is one of the best measures of the ability of a wood species to withstand denting and wear. It is also a good indicator of how hard a species is to saw or nail. As the numbers Tom999 posted shows Black Walnut is not much softer than Red Oak which is widely used for floors, which see much harder service than a kitchen counter. It might well be fine as a kitchen counter. Although hickory is listed as the hardest commercially available US hardwood, it doesn't even make the top 100 hardest woods from around the world. The wood I used in the vanity shown above has a Janka hardness of 3684....See MoreSOS my walnut countertop,did I ruin it?
Comments (19)Waterlox is food safe once cured I believe but you still wouldn't chop on it as it would ruin the finish. I've been going back and forth on oiling and Waterlox for quite some time and decided to try the mineral oil/wax route first... I figure if I don't like it I can always sand it down and put a finish on it. What I like about the oil is the look/feel. Also, you can always sand down with a little sanding block any marks and just re-oil. The downside would be there's more maintenance (monthly oiling) and you really need to keep it oiled to help resists stains, etc. With waterloo (or similar) water will always bead and it's easy to wipe down. You can choose their satin finish if you don't like glossy. The Craft Art website (or Waterlox site) gives detailed instructions on how to finish. There's a nice product called Clapham's Beeswax Salad bowl finish (Amazon.com) that rubs in well and got great reviews. I've tried various products on my walnut cutting board. Here are some discussions I've found VERY helpful regarding all of this. http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0116253024906.html?11 http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg012043375905.html?7 http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0913354730186.html?df796bfdf359db38a4b9594d4fad145aGq26I http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0211025631864.html http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg1214103427485.html http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0210344920885.html http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/wood/msg021053255637.html *Also, keep in mind if you decide to try another product you'd need to sand down what you already have on there.... Good luck!...See MoreCountertop transition (to whoever emailed me about quartz/bb)
Comments (12)gail - sorry I missed your question! My GC/carpenter installed the BB. Because I didn't get an IKEA kitchen, the cabinet makers would not install it. It is easy to work with if you have the right tools (big saws, I guess). They did cut and round over the edges where necessary. To save money, I sanded and finished the butcherblock myself with Watco Butcherblock oil and a few coats of mineral oil. I finished by rubbing it out with #0000 steel wool to make it nice and smooth. I pre-finished on all sides and then finished the top with a few more coats. I got IKEA numerar birch in 40" wide (for the peninsula) and standard 25.5" wide for the rest of the kitchen. I also found a local woodworker who makes hard maple butcherblock. I definitely would have loved to use him but he was just out of budget. next time I will! My GC also installed the quartz as that was the cheapest option (instead of getting the fabricator to do it). It was basically two 50"x25" pieces that they picked up at the shop and put in place before the BB. I had that slide in "appliance" sink so it made things pretty easy. I was REALLY worried about corners being out of square (something fabricator/installers with laser templates would take into account), but my contractor said it would be super easy to notch the drywall and backsplash would take care of the rest. So that's what happened and it's totally fine. rocksnroses, we have had no problems with the butcherblock around the stove. It's going on one year. I think stains could be a possibility. I did have a blueberry stain on one part of the counter. I soaked it in lemon juice and salt and it took it out pretty well. We use potholders/trivet and cutting boards. The advantage of butcherblock is it's fairly easy to repair -- just sand and oil. I actually need to do some repairs because my roommate has cut on the counters twice now. I asked him not to but cutting on wood seems to be irresistible for some people. If you have guests cooking in your kitchen they could pose a threat to your counters and you may wish to shove cutting boards in their direction. I don't consider this a huge downside because our alternative in that budget was laminate, which would have the same issues with cutting but be less repairable. Had we not found the appliance (slide in) sink on Kijiji I'm not sure what we would have done as it would have made using offcuts much more expensive (cost of sink cutout, longer offcut, need fabricator to install). Likely would have gone for the IKEA domsjo because it's one of the only reasonable full depth sink options. This post was edited by robotropolis on Thu, Jan 22, 15 at 13:47...See MoreHelp with kitchen counter-tops is really needed...
Comments (42)for the handles, may I suggest something to pick up on the hues in the flooring? A little more copper toned. you have light cabs, light floors. I think throwing in a dark ORB w/o actual copper highlights would be too much of a contrast. IMO. cypress park Sandra, I like the porcelain one better than the other one. Does the backsplash have to be done immediately? If the tones in the porcelain tile you picked clash w/the ivory tones in the counter, it could be a problem. However, I did find some copper toned ones that should be avail. these are porcelain/SS, and treated so as not to stain or tarnish. I LOVE these for your kitchen. timeless and gorgeous. They are probably not super cheap, but it would be worth it for me. http://www.miusartmosaics.com/arabesque-lantern-beacon-copper-tile-in these would also work. the site is here: maybe they have them in stock.http://www.westsidetile.com/arabesque-tiles/ i like this one too. notice the copper faucet. beautiful w/the glass mosaic. if you got the cream countertop, this would look amazing w/your floors. this last one is a copper colored slate/quartzite....See MoreRelated Professionals
Waianae Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · North Druid Hills Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Athens Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Brentwood Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Clovis Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Pico Rivera Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Schiller Park Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Forest Hills Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Prairie Village Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Holt Cabinets & Cabinetry · Livingston Cabinets & Cabinetry · Palos Verdes Estates Cabinets & Cabinetry · Ridgefield Cabinets & Cabinetry · Mililani Town Design-Build Firms · Oak Hills Design-Build Firms- 13 years ago
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