You may have figured this out by now from the contracter, but countertop people should do plywood underlayer. It has to be to guarantee the right fit to the quartz - too many things can go wrong if someone else does it. They screw the plywood into the cabinet. They use a epoxy-like cement between the quartz and plywood - they will float the slab on a large amount of gooey glue, then while the glue starts to cure, they adjust the height with wood screws from below to level precisely. Then the glue sets within 10-20 minutes or so, then it's done.

Hmm. Read through the contract 3 times and not one word price changes pursuant to anything. Guess I'll have to see how it shakes out and deal with something if it arises. I was just wanting to educate myself a bit in advance. Thanks, jakuvall. Oops. Just found an email written by me that I had forgotten about. Guess I covered my bases last month after all? I put my questions in quotes and his answers are directly below each question. > Hi (KD name), > > Thanks for the quote. I do have a few questions: > > 1. "In which group is the Formica Luna Sand solid surface top?" Group C color, price would be $2922.92 plus tax for perimeter countertops > 2. "Does your estimate include installation of the plant on style splash?" Installation of all solid surface materials is included > 3. "I understand the full height up charge is the additional amount for the material only; or is that additional amount including installation?" T price includes installation > > 4."Where would a counter/splash of the same specs fall cost-wise in Wilsonart Antique White color? I am now also considering that as an option." It would be a group B color, the lowest price that I quoted you before ( $2516.28 + 209.43 for the full height splash) > > 5. "Is all of this 1/2" or is some of it 1/4" as we discussed?" It is all 1/2" as formica does not make a 1/4" panel in your color > > 6. "When I decide, how does payment proceed?" We request 1/2 down and balance upon installation completion > > 7. "What is the time frame for delivery of the slabs after ordering?" They would template and it would be about 2 weeks after that when the tops would be ready for installation > > "I think that's what I need to know at this point in time. > > > Looking forward to your reply, >(me)" > > This post was edited by deedles on Sat, Mar 1, 14 at 9:40

The numbers in Tom999's post are the Janka hardness numbers for commercially available US hardwoods. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia The Janka hardness test measures the hardness of wood. It involves measuring the force required to embed an 11.28 mm (0.444 in) steel ball into wood to half its diameter. This method was chosen so that the result would leave an indention 100 mm² (0.16 sq in) in size. It is one of the best measures of the ability of a wood species to withstand denting and wear. It is also a good indicator of how hard a species is to saw or nail. As the numbers Tom999 posted shows Black Walnut is not much softer than Red Oak which is widely used for floors, which see much harder service than a kitchen counter. It might well be fine as a kitchen counter. Although hickory is listed as the hardest commercially available US hardwood, it doesn't even make the top 100 hardest woods from around the world. The wood I used in the vanity shown above has a Janka hardness of 3684.

I think you'd need 25" so as to have a bit of overhang, but kitchens do vary. Red oak itself should be a fine material, but not knowing how the one at Menard's is assembled, I can't say if it would work. If you can order a one-foot section and test it out a bunch before the big leap, it could be worth doing.