I have a Shaw’s Original Fireclay sink and it is chipped, has rust stains and the rust staining is from the $60.00:sink strainer basket that rusted after i made a paste of Barkeepers Friend and water and left it for a few hours hoping to whiten the chipped places prior to using Porcekafix which was recommended after calling everywhere including the Shaw's dealer to find someone who would repair the sink. i had a kholer cast iron sink for years and NEVER had an issue. I found someone who could come and spray epoxy on it to the tune of $650.00 but it would cover up the Shaw's Original blue diamond logo and actually decrease my homes resale vakue. So i just spent $460.00 to try to rescue the sink. $259.00 of which was for the Shaws original sink strainer basket only to read in the instructiins DO NOT use any cleaners with bleach and it is made out of plastic on the bottom neck of the drainer that connects to the plumbing. and the sink part is supposed to be Oil Rubbed Bronze but it is very light brown and cheap metal, and has the blue diamond Shaw's logo on it.....it is most assuredly it is NOT worth $260.00!! i also purchased a sink grid for the bottom of the sink to the tune of another $150.00 that is supposed to prevent chipping but it is made out of stainless steel which your not supposed to leave in a Fireclay sink overnight due to rust staining (which nothing removes rust) .when i tried to order the white plastic coated sink grid, i was informed do not get that one as the plastic peels oftf of them...GRRRRR ..well then how in the hello jimminy crickets do you keep this sink chip, stain, rust free and white!!!!!! I hate this sink and just had beautiful quartz Countertops installed and I tried for MONTHS to find another sink to replace this sink with. The cabinets are all custom made from the previous owner who had the Shaw's sink installed and because the profile of the Shaw's Original sink is already cut into the sink base cabinet, i would have to get another one custom built just to change the sink...or buy another Shaw's Original sink......#£|| NO!! I am a Builder/Designer and would NEVER spec or recomend another Fire Clay sink and feel that the advertising pertaining to them is fraudulent at the very least and i wish the previous owner who purchased this sink had it stuffed up her nose....and another part of her anatomy.. as well as Shaw's themselves....

cotehele- That one is pretty. I have been trying to find something in a rsutic/weathered pewter finish, which has been pretty tricky, so I am starting to rethink. I definately don't want to do the ORB on the ss countertop, and I wonder what everyone would think about doing a finish to go with the mercury glass shade, which will be above the faucet. So what would look best, chrome, polished nickel, stainless, or brushed nickel?

Check out my blog. I'm remodeling my kitchen and bathroom, and my new kitchen sink is a Rohl Shaw's Original porcelain farmhouse sink. I never considered installing it any way other than upmounted when I started designing my kitchen 6 years prior to actually beginning the remodel. I think an undermounted sink looks too modern for a vintage-style kitchen, but that's just my opinion. My new countertop is glazed porcelain tile. Although it does involve a sizeable monetary investment, these sinks are very solid and durable. I don't anticipate any problems regarding its being upmounted. Here is a link that might be useful: Cracker Rose Cottage

In order to use a Waste King disposal with a Rohl Shaw's sink (or any sink thicker than 3/4" for that matter) you will need to use an ISE flange and an adapter. I just installed mine after trying many different flanges, and finally found this solution: Parts you will need: 1. Extended ISE compatible flange (part #FLG-SSLG) 2. Waste King 3-Bolt Mount Adapter (part #3101) 3. ISE Quick Lock Mounting Flange (part #QLM-00) 4. ISE body flange (part #5298) 5. EZ-Mount Waste King disposal (I used the Waste King L-8000) I ordered all of these parts on amazon. Installation: 1. install the ISE Quick Lock Mounting Flange per the package instructions, except substitute the ISE extended flange. 2. Next assemble the adapter portion -- in order from top to bottom: splash guard (from 3-bolt adapter kit), ISE body flange, adapter (from 3-bolt adapter kit), mount ring (included with disposal). I found it helped to smear a small amount of dish soap between the splash guard and mount ring or else there was too much friction between the two. Press this whole assembly onto the flange installed in step 1 and twist the mount ring to lock into place. 3. Garbage disposal will now twist into place on the mount ring. See my assembled disposal below: