"I'm reading here where RedMax might be a suitable replacement." From what I posted earlier, and like loger says ("retired" stuff) for the money, many old and current Stihl gearbox fit like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-STIHL-GEAR-BOX-ASSY-FITS-FS80AV-TRIMMER-4112-SERIES-OEM-OLDER-STYLE-/390614902818?hash=item5af2766822:g:wNUAAOxyKsZRxOjv but this one should also fit your trimmer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-STIHL-GEAR-BOX-ASSY-FITS-FS80AV-TRIMMER-4112-SERIES-OEM-OLDER-STYLE/282070630079?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36860%26meid%3Dc5b7da46c7684c1a944e6497d70d37d6%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D390614902818 measure your shaft diameter jic. as I have posted before, look for (old) fs60-5 fs80,1,6. fyi: yours looks like my Zenoah also sold as stihl fs86...

I am a seamstress. The previous posters were correct in suggesting you may need more panels to make your drapes sufficiently full. No "professional" is going to hand sew your drapes together. As a professional, to do a professional job, she will have open the seams at the sides, which means undoing the top and hem as well, to stitch the panels together. She should either serge the seams together or use a French seam. The entire top seam will have to be ripped open to add the pleating tape and re-stitched. Generally, there needs to be four inches of fabric at the top to cover the pleating tape. You can have her make the pleats for you, and they will be permanent. Or you can buy the more expensive hooks that make the pleats by themselves. The work of the seamstress is greater than you'd think, because she has to take the vertical seams apart before she sews the panels together. The entire top hem will need to be picked or razored apart, the tabs removed, pleating tape added and a new seam at the bottom edge of the pleating tape. She will then re-stitch the hem where she took it apart to stitch the panels together. Razoring all the seams apart carefully and putting them back together, adding pleating tape, re-doing the hem, I'd estimate $250 to $275. She should ask to see them, first, though, to make sure there's nothing that would make them taking them apart more difficult.

Though a repeat from another site, this is what I did with a few: An old wooden framed window, a few sheets of glass, clear caulk and a glass cutter are the basic tools you will need. Simply remove the clear glass panes (if present) from the window. These will provide great templates for your colored glass. If there are no existing clear glass panels, a cardboard template will work wonders. If you purchased a multi-pane window, never assume all of the panes are the same size. Simply cut the stained glass to fit into the sections of the window. You would be amazed at how easy it is to cut glass, though I do suggest using a pistol grip cutter and not the typical cutter one can find at any hardware store. You can find easily find someone who has cut glass and will be happy to show you. My husband is actually the one who showed me, and on the second try I had it down pat. Simply cut the panels to fit the windows, use clear caulk to seal them in, and wa-la! Inexpensive first try at working with stained glass. Very simple, basic, easy to do and colorful! You can use all the same colored glass if you wish, or mix them up. I used various colors in one of my first projects, an assortment of various clear colors I had in the glass supply box. I have numerous thin strips of stained glass which I have in mind for another window created with these strips. In stripes. I'll simply cut small pieces of wood to go between the strips of glass. Though I have a few panes left to fill in (waiting for the right colors to show up at the craft store) this gives a basic idea of what I'm talking about. (copyright from another site, but this is my picture) Recently I found old wooden windows with many tiny windows, but have yet to begin that project. We live in the country, so this particular window set did not get the full treatment of sanding the windows, painting them, etc. I was going for the "Trash to treasure" feel. The picture I'm showing was taken in the shade, but you should see the colors when the sun sets on the windows! :-) Here is a link that might be useful:

I do think the dispersal of counter around the sink will be a LOT better for the clean-up use, and I agree with you that it looks nice visually. The counter dispersal was the main reason I suggested this. I really think only 15" or even 18" between the sink and the wall is going to be awkward and annoying. However, setting the issue of the counter aside, the dishwasher placement -- middle, left, or right -- is more of a judgement call for you. In the middle, it impedes both doorways. I agree it's not a full blockage of both doorways, but for me (a clumsy person), impeding is worse than blocking. Because if I can squeeze by the dishwasher door, I will try, fail, and bash my shins. And if I tried to do it fast enough, probably bash my shins, trip, and kill myself. If dishwasher door were just flat-out blocking my way entirely (as opposed to merely impeding), I'd either have to enter the room at another time or close the dishwasher so my way is completely open to enter. The fact that I am totally uncoordinated would never come into play. If placed to the left, the dishwasher blocks the dining room door, but is out of the way of everything else. This means you can easily and freely use the entire kitchen and go in and out of the pantry while the dishwasher is open. To the right, the dishwasher blocks the pantry door, but is out of the way of everything else. This means you can easily and freely use the entire kitchen (one of the fridge doors couldn't open quite all the way, but you could still use the fridge) and go in and out of the dining room while the dishwasher is open. So, if you were only considering the dishwasher placement, you'd just have to decide between those three options (middle, left, or right) which works best for you. As I said, this is more of a judgement call. Is it better for you to keep the use of of all doors and walkways at all times, even if it makes some agility/grace necessary to use them, or is it better for you keep only one walkway open, but having it be wide open and easy to use. And if you pick the latter, then is it better to have the pantry door always open or the dining room door always open? This decision would be easy if you go in and out of the pantry 10% of the time and in and out of the dining room 90% of the time or vice versa. So deciding to block a door and which door to block would be a no-brainer. But if both doors are in constant use, that makes keeping the dishwasher in the center more attractive. However, I think the counter space weirdness caused by having the dishwasher in the center makes that option so unattractive that I would be looking exclusively at which door I want to block. If you are thinking that it makes more sense to have the dishwasher block the pantry, you could have both doors -- pantry and exterior -- swing out. Or you could make the pantry door a glass door so someone coming in can see if the dishwasher is open rather than discovering that upon opening the door into it. Or you could just not have a door to the pantry -- it could be a doorway only. (As an aside, I'd personally rather a bigger sink. There is a difference between the space you need in a sink to simply physically fit your largest pan and the space you need to manipulate it easily as you flip it around washing it. The latter is quite a bit larger.)