What still puzzles me about this stair is that given a 9ft. ceiling height and 7 3/4"+ risers, the thickness of the second floor (ceiling to finish flooring) would be over 16" if there were 16 risers and it would be about 8" if there were 15 risers. For the smaller floor thickness the floor joists could not be larger than 2x8's and for the larger floor thickness the floor joists would be about 14" Since a typical floor thickness is about 12" I am greatly puzzled about your stair construction. Is there something unusual about the floor joists at the second floor? Is the ceiling height 9 ft. plus a tray or coffer? To accurately define the stair riser height you should give us the floor to floor height and the number of risers. To increase the distance from the front door to the stair by turning it, you must put one more riser at the lower run which would extend it farther into the lobby. If this doesn't make sense to you, you should ask your designer to draw the two conditions to scale before telling the builder to modify the stair. I could draw it if I knew all of the dimensions of the existing conditions but what you have posted doesn't seem to add up.

Push the master bedroom wall right up against the stairwell and create a diagonal entry to the MB. If you want some separation of space between the MB and stairwell, then make that space closet space and use the other walk in closet space on the left for an upstairs laundry room. It can vent straight out the back through a small chase in the other closet. Others have already mentioned the size of the bathrooms and Green also mentioned the lack of tubs, but I'll emphasize that again. These will not appraise at the value that a full bath will appraise at, and you will already have trouble appraising for what it will cost to build this home in most parts of the country. Don't make it harder on yourself. With the laundry room gone from downstairs, move that wall out to be in line with the breakfast room bumpout wall and move the powder room to that location. If that entry is ground floor, then that's going to become your main entry to the home by default, no matter how much you try to channel people to come in a basement entry. You'll have a much larger and more useful pantry/mud room space in that location with the laundry moved upstairs. I really dislike the whole tall center entry area. It looks like someone raising an eyebrow to look down their nose at you and doesn't work sylistically or functionally in a smaller home. Plus, the rooflines where the two gables come together will be a problem and will have to have a BIG gutter right there to handle the runoff. Even then, because of the height of the entry way, your door won't be really protected from the weather.

We have been crazy busy this last week removing all the steel studs, furnace and two 50 gal water heaters from the basement to make ready for the new concrete floor so sorry I am just now getting back to here. We just finished late yesterday and we are both really sore from all that manual labor getting everything out. The company that will be putting in the concrete started at 7 a.m. this morning welding the iron that will hold the corrugated steel sheets that will hold the 4" concrete floor. When they are done with that, we will spend the next three days laying in the vapor barrier to cover the dirt and we also have to put extensions on the two sump pits. Prior to this, we had to have the OSB flooring removed and about 1 foot X 2,200 square feet of expansive soil removed, new helical piers drilled, the second sump pit installed and new perimeter trenches dug and new french drains and rock put in so this has been a horrific costly project. We have done any and all work we can do ourselves to defray costs. Thank you all for so much helpful advice...I appreciate all of it!! We did check into having tubes put into the concrete to carry heated water to heat the floors but about 80% of the floor will be carpeted and we have been told that heated floors would not be efficient with carpet. There may be some great pad to use under the carpet that provides more insulation too. There will be a tiled bath and a work/hobby room that we will put the heated mats under the tile. We may put in a high efficiency stove/fireplace in the future. I have been reading about all kinds of concrete sealers, one has tea tree oil in it which protects against mold and it seals against radon too so I think we will seal the concrete floors for an extra layer of security! We will also have this super heavy duty vapor barrier down on the soil. We live in Colorado so it can get very cold here and we also have radon issues. Back to the stair issue...I have received about 50 responses to the ad I put on Craig's List. One guy said he was experienced with stairs and it was probably a half day job and would be about $100 labor plus materials. That sounds really low but I plan to call each one back and screen them - or at least the ones who answered my ad in the way I asked them to - and the ones that look good I will have come look at the stairs and give me a bid. I realized that it doesn't make much sense to have them look at it until the concrete floor is in which will now be the second week of June.

Keep in mind that building code requires handrails if you have >3 steps. So if you go with the 4-step option you'll have to put in more handrails than you're showing in your drawing. With the 3-step option, you can keep the steps clear. I don't think 7.5" risers are too tall. That's standard for interior stairs.