My husband does the painting in our house. (He says I'm too messy.) What I know is that its important to use a high quality brush for cutting in.

Remember its only paint. Easy to fix if necessary.

Good luck.

ML

It's not that difficult, but like any skill, takes practice to master. I wouldn't make my first attempt on a wall/ceiling juncture. Practice where it's a little easier to see and control, like around door or windows/trim. And yes, it's VERY important to use a good quality brush. It's virtually impossible to do a good job otherwise and you'll only frustrate yourself trying.

I would buy the rollers, painters' tape, and brushes. I spend far more time preparing to paint than the actually painting. It's the old "An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure" issue.

I'd definetly use tape around the window, and remove all switch and outlet plates, remove or mask off all baseboards and door trim.

As for the walls next to the ceiling, that can be tricky, for me anyway. I tape off the ceiling for at least 4" in, and then try to "draw a line" about 1/8 inch down the wall when cutting in. I tape off the ceiling edges so I don't bump it with the brushes or rollers.

Would you consider putting crown molding in the room? For one, it really makes a room shine to have crown molding, and two, it makes the wall paint meeting ceiling paint issue far less important. The crown will cover up any small boo-boos!

Painting a room can turn it from boring and plain to "Wow and Wonderful"! Putting just a bit of effort into the paint prep makes it really sing.

Don't waste your money paying someone to do it.

I have learned that painting can be really enjoyable...it is just another aspect to the decorating we all love.

I am called the "Queen of Trim" by my family..lol...but its not because of my skills (heck no) I have just learned that you need the right tools.

I highly recommend getting a good "ANGLED" paint brush - not a straight cut. I actually love the STYLETTO brush line which you can get at HD. They are great for cutting in.

"PURDY" - makes great rollers too.

and just take your time. Take the money you would spend on a painter and put it towards a little something extra in the room.

Call me nuts but I really love the whole painting process...just get the right tools and its half the battle.

Haley

Go for it! Paint it yourself! I agree, that you need to practice to do a quality job. However, you will feel empowered and will be able to paint for yourself in the future. Get your supplies, basically drop cloths, paint rollers tray, a small handheld bucket for standing on a later and cutting in around the corners. You do not need anything fancy like paint sticks, or paddles, or anything else claiming to make the job easier. Buy a small quality paint brush for the cutting in, not nylon. I would just buy one of the top two expensive ones at the store. If you're not sure, ask for help at your store. Keep damp paper towel handy for quick boo boos, and wear your old paint clothes. Practice your cutting in on a big area first. It's all in the wrist. You want to load a small amount of paint and push it up to your trim or ceiling with the brush while going in a line. Give it a try and you will see what I mean. If you have trouble, adjust your wrist. I don't tape off anything, unless I'm paint stripes. It takes more time than the painting itself. Practise edging and you can eliminate that step. I love the idea of the crown molding. It would add value and hide mistakes. Good Luck.

I'm a perfectionist and my cutting isn't perfect but it's good enough. For me, it's not worth the extra money to call someone. I don't tape at the ceiling (do around the windows, doors, and base) but that might be a good idea if you're really nervous about it. I was pretty confident I could do it. Again, not perfect but good enough. You might have to ask yourself how much it will bug you.

My walls and ceilings are all smooth.

Like already mentioned above, get a good brush. I bought the Purdy cub thanks to Faron's suggestion and I love, love, love that brush.

Here's another cheer for you! YOU CAN DO IT!

Like MaddieLee said "Remember its only paint. Easy to fix".

I was *hating* the painting in our new house  the cut in part that is  until I bought a tool for that purpose from Home Depot. It has little rollers on one side that slide along the ceiling. ItÂs small and flat. You can attach it to a long handle, but I found that too difficult. Using it by hand however turned a drudge job into a fun one. IÂm sure professionals would not need this, but I donÂt have their experience. This truly made the cutting in fast, easy and fun.

Also  Be sure to look closely at rooms that were professionally painted. If you look close, IÂm betting you will see that it is not perfect. ItÂs just that unless one scrutinizes the ceiling, it is not noticeable. IÂm suggesting you do this so that you will have realistic expectations for your self. :-)

I agree with everyone else  paint it yourself! Jeez  you have most of the hard part done with the good walls and empty room!

Oh! And listening to a book on my IPod made if fun too. :-)

A painters trick that I learned and used many times since then:
Take off any switch plates etc. Tape ceiling, window and door frames. Tape it well with long streches of tape. In other words do not use many short pieces of tapes.
Take a white paint, like a ceiling paint and paint with a brush(angled brush is the king) going over the tapes edge that will be painted, covering the trim line. When this paint dries, start painting your room: First cut along the trims and ceiling edge, then roll the rest of the walls. I always do twice of cutting and rolling. After the last paint dries to touch, take off all the tapes. Do not let it dry to the bone.
When you take the tapes you will see that you have perfect lines and no bleeding at all.
Painters cost quite alot, much more than paint brushes and trays.

Wow, thanks for each of your thoughtful replies! You're psyching me up to paint! I've spent so much money on paying people to paint, it makes me sick to think about it. Maybe it IS time to try to do this myself. Your words of encouragement and solid tips & advice really boost my confidence.

I think I will need to tape everything very, very carefully, take my time, be patient, and use a Purdy brush!

Thanks again everyone!

Practice in the corners where wall meets wall ... pretend you are painting them two different colors.

Take it slow, and if you get shaky, QUIT for a while.

Don't try to work over your head - use the right height ladder.

For the real teeny spots, like between window casing and ceiling, clean it well and use a cheap artists brush.

Like all DIY efforts you get better with practice. And, when we don't do it often, we get out of practice. For what you're planning some basic tools are all that are necessary and purchasing them will be less costly than hiring and most can be used again on future efforts. Latex paint washes with water so clean-up is easy. Here are the tools you'll want - a step ladder, roller handle and roller tray, 2 roller covers, a trim brush, tape and a drop cloth (this can be an old shower curtain, sheet or piece of plastic if you don't want to buy one.
Cutting is especially troublesome but here is what I have gravitated to.

Paint ceilings first and allow to cure at least a day. If you're refurbishing the room, I'd freshen the ceiling too if the existing paint is several years old. Little cutting involved here. 1/2" nap roller cover works well for me. Enclose in a plastic bag and continue using for a second coat, then throw away. I never wash roller covers!

When beginning the walls, apply blue, delicate, painters tape on the ceiling set about 1/32" away from the wall. Burnish the edge to assure adhesion. This will disguise imprefections in the ceiling/wall corner and give a crisp line appearance. I tape the window and base trim too. Brush along the tape and corners about 1" wide, a fairly stiff, short bristled, Purdy brush is my preference, then roll using another 1/2" nap roller. Remove the tape as soon as you can while the paint is still wet. I know the pros free-hand and make it look easy but that's why they are pros. And they do this daily.

Repeat the taping on the walls to paint your window, base and door trim.

Good luck.

Here is a lot of links to video's showing cutting in techniques. You definately can do it yourself and will love the results with a bit of practice. As said, it's only paint.

Here is a link that might be useful: how to cut in videos

No matter how much I take care, I find that I get paint on the ceiling when I'm painting the walls. So here's what I do: I tape waxed paper to one side of the painter's blue tape and fasten the waxed paper to the ceiling every so often with more blue tape. That way I have a whole 12" out from the wall-ceiling boundary and even as messy as I am, I get the paint on the waxed paper and not the ceiling.

A couple years ago, I was preparing to paint a number of rooms in a new house. I spent hours on the Paint forum where several guys who paint for a living hang out and give advice. I did countless searches on that forum and collected a ton of wonderful info. I cut and pasted and saved everything that interested me - about 6 pages worth. Let know if you want me to post it here.

I found the EASIEST way to cut in, no taping and no hassle. All you need is a diagonal 1-2 inch paint brush, a CHEAP diagonal artists brush and a wet towel. Cut in the with the larger paint brush and if you make a mistake brush it off with the artists brush and wipe the brush on the wet towel to clean the bristles. Works like a charm.

I never tape. I learned to paint in a house with textured ceilings and the paint often leaks behind the tape anyway. I just pull the paint by hand, use a wet paper towel for mistakes and go back and correct with a smaller artist's brush.

Forget taping.....
Purdy 2"angle.....
You can do a very light sanding where the wall meets the ceiling if the texture is too rough ....
Yes get up as close to eye level as possibly...
If need be paint up onto the ceiling ...OOPS are hidden better there(unless someone puts their head against the wall and looks up )...
It's the opposite when going around base boards stay a pinch up the wall...OOPS are hidden better there (unless someone lays on the floor to admire your painting skills)..
When you load the brush start and inch or so away from the ceiling and wipe brush against wall to remove excess then paint towards the ceiling..Don't try to get coverage in one stroke....
I only use the tips of the 2" angle brushes ..I'm right handed so I paint left to right with the short side of the angle leading....(This part is hard to explain )
One thing for sure all painters have an opinion....
One more thing... go to a paint store not HD type..(where the contractors buy) Don't even ask the sales guy..Ask the guy in the white overalls with the most paint on them for advise...
Painters are like fisherman .... Both like to think they do it best and love to teach the newbies.....GO FOR IT....

Wow, so much good information!

Y'all have shared so many good tips. I'm going to print this thread out & have it handy when I go shopping for supplies & when I start working in the room.

Thank you all!

I just finished painting my bathroom. This was the second room I have ever painted in my life. I used the Shur line edger tool that is sold everywhere paint is sold (including home depot). Love that tool. It is basically a flat 5x3 sort of a pad with tiny bristles, which goes into this little red and black tool which has a an edger on wheels. The edger needs to be taken up to load the brush pad, then lowered before painting. This tool has saved me a lot of time, I have done zero taping in both the rooms that I painted.

New member and this is my first post!

This may be not the most recommended way to do it but I just finished painting all of the rooms in my house and the best tool is this one. We have smooth ceilings and I used it to edge the ceilings and around all trim.

First I painted the trim and celings white, and didn't worry about if the white bled beyond just a bit. Then when it was all dry, I went back and used the edger with the wall color. I got a crips and clean line every time and could do a whole room really quickly. I just had to be careful that I didn't get the little wheels in the paint - I brushed the paint on carefully instead of dipping it.

It was an impulse buy at the last minute and saved me a ton of heartache and time. And you can't beat the price (buy extra inserts)

However you decide to go, good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: Shur-line paint edger

I always tape, but you have to be really careful how you do it and definately long pieces of tape. This takes me alot longer than the actual painting. I also love the Shur line tools. They work great! Definately do it yourself- it's not that hard and you get better and better at it.

Sonalia, congrats on your painting success! Thanks for telling me about that tool. It sounds great.

Heddarosa, welcome!! I feel honored that you posted here first!
That tool really must be effective. Yes, and it is quite inexpensive, which is great. Thanks for the link(& encouragement!)

Hope this will be the first of many, many posts from you. See you around!

PPS...another Shur line fan! My goodness, I must get one of these gizmos asap!
Yes, I imagined that taping was very time consuming. Maybe I'll tape one day & start painting the next.
Thanks!

Form what I remember in the past, textured walls and ceilings are more of a West Coast thing??? Sometimes I wish I had flat walls but I have become somewhat of a pro at patching texture that I am no longer a hater.

Our second home has rounded corners which make it really hard to have two areas two different colors. I learned a great trick similar to other poster using white paint on the blue tape.

Tape the side you do not want to paint on. Really rub the tape into the texture. Then take a tiny bit of calk and run a bead on seam. The caulk, just like the white paint, fills in whatever tiny holes that are left. Only difference is that the caulk dries faster. By the time I am done caulking I am ready to paint. I do recommend taking tape off pretty quick otherwise the paint pulls off and makes a mess. If done right you might have just a few tiny dots to touch up.

Cutting in where baseboard or crown molding meets textured wall is a nightmare. But again, using a bead of caulk to close the seam gives a somewhat flat line to cut the paint in. But that is easy to touch up depending on how OC one is.

My approach is to apply long strips of tape. Then, briefly dip a 2 -3 inch paint brush into the ceiling paint color. Use this almost dry paint brush to very roughly paint the tape. This seals the tape.

When the tape is thoroughly dry, dip the brush into the wall color and paint the edge with the wall color. Paint a second coat if necessary. Wait until it dries and remove the tape. It works.

I also never tape... find that even when using the very best 3M marine painting finish tape, the paint will STILL bleed in places, and you often don't find out till it's set well enough to be a PITA to remove. Practice free-handing along the corners of painted walls (which won't really be an "edge" since you're painting the other wall, too) before you try it at a trim or ceiling juncture. Like others have said, a good, angled brush, proper height (on a ladder, etc) and a steady hand are all you need.

Also, I noticed you're using a BM color. Don't forget that if you use BM Aura, you need a totally different strategy for cutting in and painting than with "regular" paint. With regular paint you want to keep a wet edge, so you just cut in a bit, then paint that section of wall. With Aura, which cures much faster and has a funny in-between time where you CAN'T work it until it's dry, you should first cut the entire room in. By the time you're done doing that in a normal-size room, it'll be dry. (Wait a day if you want with no harm done.) Then go back and fill in. It's seamless.

Thanks, Shannon, Delta, & Stacey!

Stacey, thanks for bringing up the "Aura" issue. I was thinking that I really wanted to go ahead & do all the cutting in first, so I could relax & do the easier part afterwards. With that strategy, using Aura is the better way to go? I am an Aura fan, but heard it's difficult to work with. Would Regal be better for a beginner? I thought I'd do two coats of "cutting in" paint 1st, letting the 1st coat dry before doing the second (even w/Aura, I'd do 2 coats) then roll on the rest. Sound o.k.?

Thanks!

I am a slow tedious painter but when I cut in it looks
amazing. It takes me 5 times longer but it looks perfect.
If I have a huge project I hire a painter. But if it is
just one room, I don't mind doing it slow and steady. Call
me the turtle.
~boxerpups

I use the same technique as deltabreeze when I need to tape off a nice straight crips line like this:

I am glad to see another vote the Shur line edger tool from heddarosa. Forgot to mention that this was all with BM Aura paint (regular one for the bedroom and the bath/spa one for the bath).

I stopped worrying about my edges not being razor sharp perfect after paying to have our first house painted and realizing that the painter didn't do it any better than I did. Second house I did most of the painting myself, but paid someone to do the 20ft foyer, back stairs and vaulted family room.

I also use a small artist brush, with the ceiling color and wall color, to make small touch ups that will give the illusion of a perfect line. I don't think anyone else notices!

Some excellent tips here that will surely benefit a lot of people who are reading....that includes me!
Thanks so much for all the sharing!

I didn't know how to explain the tip I had so I went looking for an example.

I am going to explain this from a crafter's point of view.

The example in this YouTube Video....at the 1:49 mark, shows what I was trying to explain in my head but didn't come out in type very well.

What you'll see at the 1:49 mark is what's called a sharp, Chisel Edge.

You get that from a Good Quality Brush Only. Don't cheap out when it comes to cutting in.
My personal pref is a Purdy Brush but I've used a couple others in a pinch, with good results.

I've tried every tape made, and probably almost every edge painting gadget made but just never could get the hang of a straight line.

Until.....
Someone told me to make sure I have a good quality, angle brush which will give you that nice sharp chisel edge, making it almost too easy to create a straight line....wall against ceiling, wall against baseboard, etc.

I still struggle with medium-textured walls against a heavily textured ceiling but I'm getting a little better because as they say, practice makes almost perfect. *smile* And I cheat and use my #10 Loew-Cornell Flat, White Nylon bristles w/yellow handle brush.
Again, that small brush makes a nice chisel edge and I can work that paint right up into each little nook of the wall/ceiling without getting any on the texture of the ceiling (well, almost never).

Whether you decide to use a small artist brush to fill in the areas you couldn't get in close to with the large paint brush, or you decide a non-angle brush feels better in your hand, remember the key is to get a brush that makes a nice, crisp chisel edge when the bristles are wet.

Also, play around with a few different paint brushes ......straight edge, angle, wide, 1 inch, etc.
You'll get the feel of the brush.........at least with me, with my artists' brushes, I like the feeling that my brushes are an extension of my hand.
Same with larger paint brushes.

Holding the angle brush almost like a pen, before you know it, you'll be able to adjust the straightness of the line just by putting a little presser on the first finger or releasing a little bit.

Have fun with this....it's a great learning experience!
Most of all, don't get frustrated if things aren't as perfectly straight as you'd like. There are so many ways to 'fix' the hills and valleys and as they say...."it's only paint". *smile*

Here is a link that might be useful: Sharp Chisel Edge @ 1:49 - YouTube

I think the whole key is like everyone else said - get a good quality brush. That is the single biggest key to success.

I too find painting to be an enjoyable and peaceful job - as long as you have the right tools - primarily a good brush. I use Purdy because my uncle who has been a professional painter for 30 years uses Purdy and recommends them. The last one I bought was probably 6 years ago and it was about $35 with his discount. I am sure they are more expensive now, but well worth it (and much cheaper than paying a pro!)

I hired a color consultant about 5 years ago to help me pick some paint colors and she told me she uses a hair dryer on the paint after she tapes. She said that ensures no seepage goes under the tape. I find it easiest to just cut in freehand without tape as long as it's a very high quality brush. I won't even attempt it with a low quality brush or one that is not the right size for the area.

Thanks again, Sonalia.

Chispa, good job, thanks for sharing.

Amity, wow, great tips, & thanks for the video link.

Needsometips, yes, I will definitely get a great brush! You & Haley sound like kindred spirits...you both actually enjoy painting...great! That's good to hear.

Thanks to each one of you who posted here, for sharing your time, expertise, and experience so generously! Y'all don't realize how much I appreciate it. I'm just overwhelmed by all the responses to my little question! I have read & re-read & will continue to review each of these posts intently. They are each quite a gem with very valuable information & inspiration!

LOVE Frog Tape for taping off. No seeping issues.