Hi, there is an outlet in the cab above the range used to be for OTR microwave. Since I converted to range hood I have no use for that outlet. I put my surge protector in that cab and I bought my undercab fluroescent lights which are plugged in there. The cords easily fished down in my situation then pushed into the light fixtures. I used one of these remote surge protectors, it comes with a good looking switch, but most importantly it's slim so it be mounted upside down below the cabinets. Because I have multiple plug-in lights (3 so far) , the power bar's foot print was actually adequate. Here is a link that might be useful: Belkin Conserve

While the pull chain switch in a damp environment could be an issue here, I really don't know, and would rather leave that to someone more knowledgeable of any specific code that may address this. However, from a strictly utilitarian approach, the switch should be wired in before the receptacle in the enclosure that the plug on the fan unit itself plugs into, and of course on the hot side. Many bath ceiling fan/light enclosures are wired like this (with a plug-in for the fan) but they are then controlled by single, or individual, wall switches. Where is the current pull chain switch that you wish to replace wired into fixture?

You have lots of choices for wireless light control, from a simple gadget that goes between the socket and the bulb, to one that installs in the ceiling box, which in your case would have to be installed by an electrician. Your lease probably specifies that you need to clear that with your landlord. There are even wireless switching systems that you can control from your phone. Some internet searching should show you the options. As Sofa mentioned, NM or Romex is often used in modern residential work. But it was used as early as the 1920s, so depending on when your place was built or last renovated, NM could very well be in your walls. Also, it's not the only wiring system used today by any means. The real discussion to have (tangential to this one) is whether your wiring has the capacity to handle your electrical needs safely. If you suspect that it doesn't, you should get after your landlord to do something about it.

I'd like to be able to turn the lights in an outbuilding on and off from the house, as well, of course as in the outbuilding. I'd like a simple on/off switch (no dimmer) that I could install in the house, wired to power, so no batteries to mess with, that will work on its own, without any kind of home automation hub. It would be great if it could look (and work) like an ordinary toggle switch. The switch location in the outbuilding is about 150 ft from where I'd like to put the switch in the house. There's good WIFI signal in both places. RF would be fine if the range is adequate. Does such a beast exist that works relaibly? I'm finding much more complicated systems and a bunch with pretty mixed reviews. Thanks!