I have used wireless switches for many years to do exactly what you want to do. Very few stores cary them - your best bet is buying on line. I have used both X-10 and Insteon brands - my new house is loaded with Insteon switches. You can buy them at www.smarthome.com. For your application, look at the 3-way dimmer kit which comes with two switches that are pre-programmed to work together. They make both decora paddle type and push button switches. You will need a hot & netutral wire at each switch location for these switches to work. The switches communicate wirelessly as well as over the neutral wire to provide a dual network. To work with maximum reliability, the neutrals connected to both switches should connected to the same breaker (best) or at least on the same phase - this allows the over wire signals to pass between the two switches. If you can't get an over wire path via neutral wires directly, the switches will still work through the wireless path but depending on the seperation - you might get some intermitant results.

The reviews on Amazon don't give me that warm fuzzy feeling. :) There's only 6 reviews and half of them are bad. That is, if you read the actual review. There are a couple of 4 stars that don't sound like they should be 4 stars if you read the comment. Now that it actually exists, I wonder how many people are willing to spend 30 bucks plus shipping for it. As a side note, this thread seems like one that lots of people feel the need to sign up for a Houzz account, make one comment on this thread pointing everyone at SwitchFlip and then not participating in any other discussions. Is it possible that these people have an ulterior motive in promoting this product? :)

Replace your switch with a X10 or Leviton electronic switch with a wireless remote. The remote will be like a key fob switch that you open your car doors with. No wiring is required.

And I'd like to add one other thing to my overall question. So the entire knob and tube run is pristine. Very good condition, very nice Everywhere I can see it running (through part of the ceiling joist cavity in an open frame construction). I'm just going to leave it alone because I can't get new Romex up there. But our kitchen is attached to the backside of our foursquare house and as a result there is actually an extension off of the home that extends the kitchen out a little bit further. It was original and since it was original there's no insulation in the ceiling. The lighting fixture as well as the entire three-way switch loop is all completely in open uninsulated cavities which are compliant even according to the latest NEC. However we would like to be able to put insulation into the other section where there is just a hip roof above the ceiling. When the ceiling is up there will be no access which I know is a parameter in the code. I know that you cannot run knob and tube around insulation or have insulation over it even though in some states apparently there is a waiver. So I'd like to try to figure out a workaround again since I cannot rewire the connections to the fixture with romex what choice do I have? Is it possible to at minimum install conduit above the insulation with a new single neutral wire that connects to the knob and tube in two places? In other words just replace one section of the existing run so that it is protected from insulation that we would want to put up there? Optimally I would relocate the neutral and shorten its length, but cannot do that due to the restrictions of splicing in romex. There will be no other loads on the neutral because I will be re-wiring all of the others with new Romax from the basement. It's only this one stupid lighting load on this three-way switch. Thanks for your guidance!