Exactly--to each their own. Our current house and previous house have/had two story family rooms that are open to the upper level. The house before that had a story and a half or two story vaulted family room. My FIL never felt comfortable in the space, but I suspect he never felt comfortable in the entire house. It represented too much psychological baggage for him. He didn't visit often. For us, the two story space was a practical choice. We have some original artwork that is large. The smaller piece is about 4 x 6 ft. Artwork that size demands a larger wall space. On a smaller wall, it would make a room claustrophobic and could not be displayed properly. The room is comfortable without echoes, heating/cooling issues, etc. Our family benefitted as we always felt we were "in touch" with each other although we might be in different areas of the house. When our children were young I was able to keep tabs on them very easily. If it became too quiet upstairs, I knew to check on things. The noise from the main level never disturbed their sleep. It's just how they grew up.

Chipsa, if one climbs stairs from one habitable level to another habitable level there are two (2)habitable floor levels. What we may have here is a real estate/consumer terminology vs. the building code/architectural terminology. In determining floors, it matters not if the second level is under the roof, has pony walls or full height walls. Horizontal or sloped ceilings have nothing to do with the number of floors. The historical Cape Cod simply was an economical approach to a 2-story house, with the second story in the attic, under the existing roof framing! Dormers may or may not have been added for light on the rake side of the roof. But it was clearly a 2-story house with habitable floors on two levels. History is full o examples of buildings with unusual floor definitions. The mansard roof, for example, was a device to add a floor in Parisian houses without having to pay taxes for another floor in the house (it was under the "roof", not a normal floor enclosed by walls as defined by the tax regulations). Today, no one questions that it was a habitable floor despite the fact that it was under the sloping "roof" and illuminated by dormer windows. To determine floors, just count the floors connected by stairs--it's that simple! If there are stairs connecting two habitable levels it's a 2-story building. Conncecting three habitable levels means a 3-story house. The definition of floors really has nothing to do with wall types, wall heights, types of ceilings or types of windows. The only way one would have 1.5 stories is if one floor is only a half level above the next. Sometimes these are called "split levels", but even these most generally have a portion with one habitable floor above another. All of that said, it's really not that important whether one prefers to call something 1.5 stories or 2 stories. It's just important to remember whether one is talking in marketing terms or in terms of the building code and design/construction. Whatever floats one's boat!

Hi Dmaull and ptaylor, Unfortuantely we never got around to whitewashing our house, but, I did an enormous amount research on the subject and discovered that you do NOT want to paint brick. Why? Because the paint doesn't allow the natural breathing to occur with brick. Brick is partially pourous and paint changes the game... Instead if you are going for that aged look then you want to use a product that simulates lime washing. Lime washing is the actual technique used in the 1700 and 1800s to protect buildings (including brick). Some still practice this today, but it is messy and potentially dangerous (your working with slaked limeor calcium hydroxide a natural chemical. The reason however you want this kind of finish is that it allows the brick to "breathe". Unfortunately the lime wash eventually wears off so you have to reapply ever few years. What I did find however was the ultimate solution I planned to use (until we deferred the project). It's a modern product that produces a finish identical to lime washing but is PERMANENT! It works at the molecular level and the minerals in the product permanently bind with the brick. What this means is that you do it one time and one time only! Additinoally the brick can literally be power washed later with NO ill effects on the white washed finish since it is permanent! Below are the notes I made to myself for later reference when I was ready to proceed. You'll want to contanc this firm and research the product yourself, but I am 100% confident that this is the BEST way to achieve a permanent, old world, white wash finish on your brick! Hope this helps! bradesp Jeff at Eco House 877-ECO-HOUSE Must apply in 46 degrees or warmer - needs four hours in 60 degree weather to fully dry-out Apply Primasil first as base "coat" Then apply one coat of Salizur. Will need to mix pigments to desired color and translucency. http://www.eco-house.com/silazur.htm Eco House can't ship if temperatures are going to freeze. Products can easily be sprayed. Will need to custom mix and keep mix "suspended" during spray.

I agree...but it got worse. The people who remodeled this house took some interesting approaches - to include leaving that fan with no switch (it runs off of a remote control) and wiring it before the drywall was in...so we can't access the wires to change that. In other words, it can't go in the alcove. I switched gears completely. I am redoing the guest bedroom as a parlor/family room and going all out - velvet chairs, silk curtains to the ceiling, and floor to ceiling books on one wall. They are hanging the light in there as we speak. It is too big for the space...but centered over the coffee table that goes in the center. It is either going to be crazy dramatic or a hot mess - but I risked it and figure worst case I can take it down.