HomePro01, thank you for the suggestions. A lot of what you have suggested, I plan on doing. Glad to know that my ideas are shared by others! My sink cabinet is only 30 wide but I found an ELKAY 24 wide undermount that I am really excited about. And we are indeed installing a reverse osmosis (with the main components in the basement so as to save on under cabinet space). Trying to decide if an air switch for a disposal next to the faucet is worth having for $60? We are going to move the coffee pot/grinder to the open shelving InterMetro unit and the microwave will go on a shelf over my new work table which will become my baking prep zone. I want to take full advantage of the new undermount sink and want nothing in my way on the counter! I looked into the induction cooktop but ultimately decided I would go for gas (and I got it for a bargain). I think the middle burner on the KitchenAid got to me -- I so look forward to using my wok again. I have a small portable induction that I have been using and while I like it very much, I decided that I would get more flexibility out of the gas cooktop. I love the idea I will be able to move pans across the grates as well as use my beloved cast iron without fear of scratching a very expensive induction. Unfortunately, there is no room to carve out space in the cabinet next to the cooktop since it adjoins a lazy Susan unit. But I have two great carts I built that store just a few steps away in my former laundry room that will provide some additional landing space when cooking large meals. We are a household of two and do not entertain a lot. I already outfitted the closets in the laundry room into my pantry with Elfa shelving last year with pull out drawers. I love that stuff! Now that the washer/dryer is in the basement, I plan on doing some more. I actually called Barker this week after looking at new doors on their website. They seemed like a good company and were very willing to answer questions. But I also discovered that the original maker of my cabinets (Coppes-Napannee in Indiana -- one of the original makers of Hoosier cabinets I believe) is still in business and could make me new doors as well and at an extremely reasonable price of $125 for the large doors (less for the smaller ones) and match the stain! But this would be the last thing I would do and possibly not until next year and only for the uppers that remain. Another option I looked into is replacing the recessed panels with glass (but only in the cabinet I store my dishes). I called a local cabinet maker who would charge $60 a door after I purchased the glass. I am fortunate to own a beautiful set of all-white dishes from Germany and I think that would like nice against the brown stain. In case anyone is interested in building a cart for themselves, I am attaching some pictures of what I assembled. I used the chrome wire shelving that can be easily found almost anywhere but getting the poles to connect the tops was a bit tricky. I finally found some connectors at Bowery Restaurant supply but now my local supplier of chrome shelving is fabricating them as well (their website is Shelving.com and you can find the connectors under wire chrome accessories). I waited until Williams Sonoma sent me a 20% coupon to buy the John Boos walnut top (final cost to make around $300) and the other top is a scrap piece of marble (cost about $75).

I think if you got a shallower fridge it would. counter depth. even now that current one sticks out far too much. The cabinet that it's in just accentuates that difference. perhaps if you had a cabinet made that better fit that fridge, it wouldn't look as noticeable. Is it a walk in pantry? if not, you could do a double pantry next to the fridge and put the oven next to the stove. that would work better while cooking. Otherwise, you could do the oven in place of fridge. It's not the perfect work triangle, but unless you want to get into cutting granite, cabinets and rearranging, I don't see another solution. I have mine set up with fridge, wall oven, small countertop, then my stove top. Wall oven is in a cabinet. could you order one to match your cabinets? or yes,,,deal w/the 30" oven! get a newer, sleeker one.

To do a wood surround like that, your Kitchen Designer will need to duct the air flow generated by the insert to somewhere. You’ll need a duct and exhaust grate similar to a HVAC return, positioned either at the top of the hood, or ducted 90 degrees through a wall into an adjacent pantry or utility room. Since tecirculating does not typically provide the air flow that a ducted hood can provide, you will also end up with more effluent on the surround and cabinets. That means more frequent cleaning, and the possibility of damage to all of the surrounding wood surfaces over time. That is why that most who need to do recirculating end up with a stainless under cabinet hood or stainless chimney hood, as it will withstand the care regimen better over time. Function rules over form. Be sure that the hood capture area is wider and deeper than the cooking zone below, as that will help with capture and cleaning both. Finally, consider the scale of the kitchen and ceiling height both when designing the kitchen. Most large mantle hoods appear overbearing in a smaller kitchen with a shorter ceiling. A 30” range often appears dwarfed by the typical proportions needed for a mantle hood. Be very careful here, and be sure that your KD helps you to visualize this through their software. It’s a pretty significant upgrade expense over a stainless hood, and you do not want to have regrets.

First of all, thank you everyone for taking the time to address my issue. So per suggestions from the post, i increased the hole size in the cabinet and was finally able to attach the hood to the cabinet with all screws in. As the new hole size is approximately 8 inches, so i bought a 8 inch to 6 inch duct reducer. Now my problem is that the if i try connect one 6 inch adjustable elbow with the 8-6 inch reducer.. it is just short (they don't connect) - Shown in the picture and if i were to use 2 adjustable elbows then the part of hole in the cabinet will remain exposed.. I am not sure, What are my options? can i buy one 6 inch piece somewhere, what is it called? Any suggestions or thoughts are much appreciated. Thanks