Since you now have a cable between the cable modem and your existing computer, you should disconnect it from the existing computer and hook it up to the router instead. If you still desire internet access for the existing computer, run an identical type of cable between the existing computer and the router. The laptop will use wireless so no more cables for it. Try to place the router in a location where its signal is not hindered by other objects that could block it or interfere. Then provide power to the router and you are good to go. Follow the set up instructions from the router manufacturer next. Call the router manufacturer's support hotline if you have questions or problems. Examples of object that could cause interference are microwave units and cordless phones that use the 2.4GHz bandwidth (for example, 5.8GHz phones do not cause problems). Solution: I switched all of mine cordless phones from 2.4 to 5.8 several years ago. This is not a problem with corded phones. The routers come in 'flavors' called classes: A, B, G, N for example. Each letter has had improvements over the previous one (more range, more speed). The newest is N, sometimes referred to as 'N-draft' or 'draft N' as well. Each letter version is downwards compatible to earlier lettered versions. Thus a G laptop will work on a N Router and vice-versa. A N router does this, for example, by lowering the speed it normally uses down to the speed used by the G laptops. If you use G and N laptops at the same time, the router will only transmit using G thus slightly slowing things down for the N laptop users. However, when most people buy new laptops, they get around this by matching upgraing old equipment to the router letter when/if possible. So for example, if the router uses "N" then try to use a "N" laptop and upgrade G laptops to N. You do not have any laptops so... you do not have to do this. The N Version is technically a "draft" version because the IEEE Organization (who governs the standards for transmission) has not adopted a final N version yet. It should not be a hassle when they do but some people may prefer to wait to buy the final draft N; I am not sure if you are one of those persons so I mention this as a fyi. I have different brands of G and N Laptops at home using the Belkin N Router and the mixture has not been an issue. At work they also use N in nonsecure locations with multiple devices and it has not been an issue either. Technically, it 'could' be a problem if the final N Version turns out radically different than the draft but you would expect IEEE not to cause such a stir and you would expect them to suggest that router manufacturers provide software upgrades for draft N Routers to compensate if there were a possibility of such problems.

I would think that any name brand wireless router will work fine. I have a DSL modem supplied by the phone company, and a 4-port Belkin Pre-N wireless router I bought separately a couple of years ago. The incoming signal goes to the modem, and then an Ethernet cable goes to the router. Hard wired devices plug into the ports in the back of the modem via Ethernet cable. My router can handle 4 hard-wired devices, and 32 wireless devices. I have 4 PCs hooked up to it (1 wired, 3 wireless), a Roku box (wireless), and a printer (wireless). The only thing to keep in mind about cable is that speeds can vary depending on how many people in the neighborhood are online at any given time. DSL is a constant speed, and since mine is 3 Mbps, that's enough for me. Have you checked to see whether your DSL supplier can provide a higher speed? Last year, my speed was 1.5 Mbps and I asked if they had anything higher in my area. They said they had 3.0 available for the same price. When I asked why they hadn't just bumped up my speed, they said they were only allowed to change my account if I called to request and authorize it first! I said: Who wouldn't want twice the speed for the same price? They said they just wanted to be sure this was something I wanted! At any rate, 10 seconds later I had twice the speed. Lastly, since you're mixing PCs and Macs on your system, I don't know if that would cause any problems. I have have friends with Macs who visit and they can get on my system (when I give them my security code) with no problem. However, if you are switching providers, you should ask first if there could be any problems.

Linksys seems to be the most popular, followed by Dlink. There are many others that are just fine & some way much better for way much more money. Usually the $40 deals are discontinued or obsolete models... which are quite usable for most people. There is a new wifi which isnt quite mainstream yet but eventually will replace the 802.11G with 802.11N which also do G for people with old stuff. Being that you are new to wifi, $40 sounds fine - however; if the isp supplies a router it may be programed such that you may not be able to hook another router to it and then you would want a wifi access point that doesnt do routing, maybe a network switch too,,, depends. ~ In a home with multiple computers usually the isp supply's a combination modem/router,,, if they know you have a laptop they would normally supply a modem/wifi_router. Free at install with no monthly rental provided you agree to an annual contract... which usually have a provision for a $100 or so early cancellation fee with return of the modem/router.

paradigm....here's the low cost wireless solution I was referring to....link below. These would have to be housed in a weather enclosure of some sort or inside your outdoor panel if there's room....inside the garage would also do the trick if that works for your setup. These RF systems use your existing home electrical wires to send the signals to any X10 dimmers/switches in and around the home to turn lights/appliances on/off and dimmer control. All from the palm of your hand with an RF remote that works through walls and does not need line of sight. Their standard package has 16 channels for control of 16 different devices from one remote. The key fob package below only has 2 channels, but you can upgrade to a handheld remote that has the 16 channels and expand your X-10 devices as needed....pretty cool! I use a lot of X10 devices around the house including the home theater as well. They also come in handy for outdoor X-mas lighting, blow-up outdoor holiday figures, etc. They are easily programmed...just select the same channel on the remote and the appropriate X10 device (dip switch selectable on each X10 device) and they are paired automatically. If you want to put your hands on one of these to see what they look like, Fry's Electronics carries an assortment of X10/Smarthome devices. There's several Fry's in the DFW area that I've bought X10 hardware over the years. Hope this helps! Switch plus key fob remote: http://www.smarthome.com/4003/X10-16-Device-Base-Unit-with-Keychain-Remote-for-2-Devices-RC6500/p.aspx Higher Current Switch (for larger loads >500 watts): http://www.smarthome.com/_/ProductResults.aspx?Ntt=110v 20A receptacle