When researching the F&P dishdrawers, one interesting comment that was made that really hit home for me was something along the lines of "if you are going to get dish drawers, why NOT get the ones made by the company that has been doing it the longest and has the benefit of its own research and improvements". So, I thought about that, and did some more research and learned that indeed F&P did have some issues earlier, but worked hard to improve and correct any problems. I bought the F&P dish drawers about a year ago and couldn't be happier. Just the other night they once again proved themselves to me: in the top drawer I put in a scraped of large chunks only dish that I made scalloped potatoes in and in the bottom were the baffles (greasy) from the range hood. Everything was sparkling when done.

Cycle sequences and temps depend on the model machine involved and the target sales market (US/Canada, NZ/Aus, European, Orient), and the details may vary a little throughout the production of a given series (control board revisions). The best reference is via the specific user guide packed with a given machine. F&P has some user guides online but not for all older models. I have a few "historical" user guides and service docs. Citing my US-market DD603 bought 8 years ago: Heavy 132 mins -- prewash, rinse, rinse, main wash 150F, rinse, rinse, final rinse 163F Heavy Eco 112 mins -- prewash, rinse, main wash 140F, rinse, rinse, final rinse 150F Normal 115 mins -- prewash, rinse, main wash 140F, rinse, final rinse 150F Normal Eco 88 mins -- prewash (or prerinse if no detergent), main wash 125F, rinse, final rinse 125F Delicate 86 mins -- prewash (or prerinse), main wash 120F, rinse, final rinse 130F Delicate Eco 72 mins -- prewash (or prerinse), main wash 115F, rinse, final rinse 125F Fast 56 mins -- prewash (or prerinse) main wash 115F, rinse, final rinse 115F Fast Eco 38 mins -- main wash 105F, rinse, final rinse 105F The newest models and some market areas may reduce cycle phases (such as eliminating the prewash/prerinse and starting directly with the main wash) and increase time to compensate.

No. I installed mine ... uninstalled, moved it to a different house, installed again. Never any trouble with that. Main things are follow the instructions for moisture-proofing the cabinetry cavity, route the drain hoses properly, level it, and anchor the unit correctly with the side and top tabs.

You have two single-drawer units? Or one double-drawer unit? "Over 10 years old" covers a lot of ground for the various model revisions. Citing the specific model number(s) is more helpful than an imprecise age reference. Assuming you don't have one of the very early models that have inflatable seals ... The seal (for each drawer) is part of the drawer lid and does not contact the drawer rim until a cycle is started and the lid motors crank the lid down. The lid attaches to lid yokes at the left and right of each drawer, which in turn are connected to the screw-drive motors to raise and lower it. Could be one (or both) of the yokes on both drawer have broken. Could be one or both of the lid motors on both drawers have failed. A drawer can be forcibly opened if the lid motors fail and the lid doesn't open ... but it cannot be closed again without damaging the seal ... the lid motors must first be manually cranked to raise the lid. Could be the link support arm (which supports the wiring harness, fill hose, and drain hose) has broken on both drawers and something is dragging on the drawer ... but you didn't cite the model to confirm if you have the old-style plastic link support (which will eventually break) or the more-sturdy revised metal support. There may be a few other possible causes.