Dandridge.....Sorry it took me awhile to get back to you. I'll try to respond to the points you made. When I get a chance I'll also email KA. But actually it would be good if I got another customer service rep.....just to see if their 'stories match'. :-) Yes, I've also heard that the vent is supposed to stay closed for 4 hrs. But then why have SO many people had their counter tops ruined from moisture? I can't figure it out. Maybe they didn't install the moisture barrier that apparently came with old model dishwashers with vents on the top. If indeed the vent is at the bottom and blows straight out (as opposed to down on the hardwood floors), then that sounds like an improvement to me. As far as being a 'guinea pig' for a new product, I wouldn't worry about that. I get the impression that the workings of this new model are basically the same as the old model. I think they've only tweaked it a bit......changing the fan because that's the one consistent complaint they have received, and lowering the decibel level (which is to compete with the Miele, which has been quieter). This is just my non-technical opinion. :-) Like you, everything else I've heard about the dishwashers has been outstanding. There are so many people who rave over this machine, so I think I just need to go with it and pray that I don't get a lemon. And on that subject, I will absolutely buy an extended warranty for every appliance I buy. Consumer Reports says it isn't necessary, but it's cheap insurance for the unbelievable hassles that can result from an appliance that does go bad. I think you'd be fine with either the 60 or the 70 model. I'm not the kind of person who needs the top of line anything....my other appliances will be KA refrigerator, Monogram single oven and Advantium, Bosch 30" induction cooktop. They're good appliances, but certainly not the top of the line or as expensive as Wolf's, Thermador's, etc. But I do think I'm going to buy the 70 model KA because of our circumstance. We're down-sizing to a small home, and I'll be in close quarters with my dishwasher. I want to run it and not have to listen to it. Also, I'm not SURE it will dry plastics.....don't know if any dishwasher will. But I'm so sick of my current dishwasher.....I have to dry a bunch of my dishes by hand after the cycle is finished before I can put them in the cabinet. It's very annoying. So the fan on the 70 sounds good to me. I had to laugh at your last paragraph. Yes, me too!!!! The dishwasher, the sink (believe it or not), and the range hood and getting the right CFM's have all been insanely problematic for me. But I'm whittling everything down now, and we're close to a decision on everything. Whatever happened to the good old days before we had the ability to research like this? We just picked out the color or style we liked, or we asked the Sears salesman which one he recommended. Voila! Now we almost have too much info at our disposal, and it can get overwhelming at times. Good luck with your purchase. If you can wait to purchase, you may eventually find one in a store that you could take a look at. Let me know what you ended up doing. BTW, Lowe's has an extended warranty program that sounded pretty good. You can for instance buy 4 appliances from Lowes, but buy an extended warranty for only 2 of the appliances. You don't have to designate WHICH appliance you want the warranty for. Probably all 4 appliances won't go out, so you're saving a little (and gambling) by buying the extended warranty for only 2 appliances and using it only on an 'as-needed' basis for whichever appliance should happen to go out.

I can post a picture! I'm heading out for the day, but once I'm back I'll try and figure it out :) The doors need replacement too. Sadly, the last owner put an ugly door on the front of the house, with a fake "stained glass" storm door. Ugh, awful. I don't even want a storm door. I'm looking at Jeld-Wyn's line of Arts and Crafts doors - in wood. Also, I am adding a sliding glass door to the kitchen, as there is no access to the back yard area at all. It's a corner lot, and there are 2 doors to each side of the house, but no convenient way to get into the Kitchen from the detached garage. That part of the Kitchen, used to be the back porch - previous Owners enclosed it ages ago (good for me as it added much needed square footage to the Kitchen). Those two doors on the side of the house? One leads to a portico (Possibly once a car port?) and the door is French door, paned glass. We need to find something more appropriate and more secure but good looking since it can be seen from the living room. We think this door was actually one of the doors from upstairs which lead to the balcony shared by two of the bedrooms (they closed off one entrance, which we are going to open up again). It needs repair; which we'll be doing. So does it match, in the other bedroom. The other side door leading to the basement and Kitchen, is a mangled mess - and; get this - is basically a door for "inside" the house! Apparently easy to break into, the lock is just a basic bathroom/bedroom type of lock. Unbelievable. We just need a decent serviceable, safe door there.

There is a lot to be said here but I will restrain myself. For only charcoal filtration, any faucet should work. Use a charcoal filter that is standard size (guessing without moving my keister to measure that standard means 3 inches in diameter by about 10 inches long.) Pressure drop should be modest until depleted so flow would be high. With R.O. water, one needs a pressure tank and at least 3/8 poly tubing to use with a standard faucet. One may also need other active components to keep the pressure up. My R.O. system feeds a Brizo Venuto, a Brizo pot filler, a plant wand, a refrigerator ice maker, and eventually a bar sink faucet. However, I have a peristaltic brine-driven pump from Spectrapure, and two pressure tanks. With R.O. filtration, it is possible in some cases for the resulting water to become soft and acidic, and this can leach lead where present. For such cases, a lead free faucet is needed. My R.O. input is municipal water that has been dosed at the source with alkali chemicals, and pH measurements show that it is still alkaline after R.O. filtration. kas

It depends on your faucet....so you need to have both the sink & the faucet picked out. In general, a faucet w/the handle on the side that goes front-to-back to turn water on/off will need more room behind it than a faucet w/a handle on top...but it could still be an issue for this one as well. Have you ordered your cabinets yet? If not, consider ordering a sink base that's 3" deeper than normal (i.e., 27"). If you've already ordered it (or have it), then look into pulling it forward 3". That's actually a nice look, btw. If I hadn't had the bay window behind my sink I would have done just that. If you cannot do any of the above, then you need to be very careful what sink & faucet you choose since they need to accommodate the window sill above it. Counters are usually 25-1/4" deep or so, but assume 25" Next, figure the sink will sit 2" or 3" back from there. How much does the window sill stick out? (1-1/2"?) 25" - 3" - 1.5" = 20.5" to work with. Now, look at your faucet specs and see what clearances you need. (Clearance usually includes width of faucet base & handle "swing".) 20.5" - clearance = maximum depth of sink. If you get the 105 and don't center the faucet, instead put it b/w the two sinks, then I don't think you'll have anything to worry about. We have the S405D and did that. The 205 may be more problematical since the bowls are equal sized with no "dip" in the rim, which means the faucet may have to be set further back. Have you considered that if you center the faucet over the 105 that it might not reach into the small bowl completely (again, depending on the faucet you're using)?