Thank you for all of your helpful advice! I have decided I am going to lop off the top three branches today but I have one more question/concern before I take the plunge. I have been reading a lot about pruning on the internet and it has been suggested that I should have between 4-8 scaffold limbs spread at least 8 inches apart with no limbs above or below each other like spokes of a wheel as Herbert also suggested. Since I have so many limbs that are close to horizontal, and they are so close together, I just can't see how I can get the limbs to be at least 8 inches apart from each other when the distance from the lowest limb to where I am going to lop off is only 14" long. The distance from the lowest limb to the ground is 33". Instead of lopping off the three branches would it work to lop off two of the tree at the top and then shorten the leader to force more scaffolds to develop along the trunk so then I can choose at least 4 scaffolds spread 8" apart? Then when I get there, lop off the leader. Al, the reason I have the tree staked is because I had to move it last year and I did not want it to blow over as the tree is in a really windy area between two houses and I planted it in a mound partly above my heavy clay soil to assist with drainage. The ties are actually ladies pantyhouse which allow the tree to flex in the wind and do not girdle the trunk. In the picture they just look tight but the tree can still sway. I plan to remove them this year as the tree has been staked for about a year now and seems to be doing well. The picture below is during the winter so you can get an idea of the branching structure. Thanks again. Carrie

WOW! Lots of varying information here! I searched the web, and found lots of data, but this about sums up what I could find; Neem oil is derived by pressing the seed kernels of the neem tree. It is very bitter with a garlic/sulfur smell. A single seed may contain up to 50 percent oil by weight. Neem oil is an excellent moisturizing oil and contains various compounds that have insecticidal and medicinal properties. It is used in making shampoos, toothpaste, soaps, cosmetics, mosquito repellants, creams and lotions, pet products like pet shampoo, etc. It also contains vitamin E, other essential amino acids and some percentages of fatty acids. Neem oil is used for treating many skin diseases viz. eczema, psoriasis, skin allergies, etc. and is being studied for making contraceptives in India. A compound found in Neem Oil and neem leaves extract- 'Salannin', has been proven to be safer but more effective insect repellant than DEET. Neem provides protection from not only mosquitoes, but also from biting flies, sand fleas and ticks. Neem oil has been used for hundreds of years in controlling plant pests and diseases. Many researches have shown that the spray solution of neem oil helps to control common pests like white flies, aphids, scales, mealy bugs, spider mites, locusts, thrips, and Japanese beetles, etc. Neem oil also works as a fungicide and helps control powdery mildew. Some people have also experienced good results with neem oil spray on black spot. Orchid owners use pure neem oil spray to control pests like mealybugs, spidermites, etc. One of the main ingredients in neem seed oil is Azadirachtin that works as an insect growth regulator, thus preventing the larval stage to molt into an adult. As neem is very bitter in taste, it also works as an antifeedant thus making the leaves sprayed with it very distasteful for the bugs to eat, and the bugs choose to starve themselves than eat the leaves treated with neem. Neem oil is bio-degradable and has proven to be non-toxic to mammals, birds, bees or earthworms. It is biodegradable and breaks down easily and quickly. Neem has also proven to be not harmful to adult beneficial insects, since it primarily affects only plant sap-sucking insects, which feed upon the treated plants. However it is recommended that care should be taken not to spray neem oil solution when honey bees and the larvae of beneficials like ladybugs, etc. are present. Neem oil spray like any other oil spray can also burn leaves if sprayed in sun.

Cat'sRose has it right. These guys are transient, so the problem is self-eliminating. But the damage IS annoying -- so if you want to stop them in their tracks, just squish them with your gloved hands (or bare fingers, for that matter). This isn't a pest worth the collateral damage you'll do by spraying with pesticides. Jeri

Gigi, Is the Caudex soft at all? Does not look like it in photo. Unfortunate to have lost the one grafted branch. With the other. Is it soft and squishy or dry and shriveled? If dry and firm, then leave it. If it is soft and squishy. You need to cut it back a little bit (1/4") by bit until there is solidly clear white tissue. Not biege marks or areas around the edges of the cambium layer. With each and every cut w a razor blade, Wipe w Rubbing Alcohol. Bare root plants when you receive them can take a very long time to show signs of grow and particularly if you receive them in the fall (living in a changing climate through out the year). The soil needs to stay on the dry side until they start to show signs of new growth at tips or sides of branches. They will not start this until they are getting higher light levels and warmer temperatures, until then you need to just lightly feel the caudex and if it gets to feel softer like a older Potato when squeezed, then give it about 1/4 cup max. Your soil sounds like it would be fine. The coconut coir in the mix is one that would be best not in it. Holds alot of moisture. As far as the other plant. It could stay in this pot, but it is a bit large for the caudex size. Will just have to be very careful not to water too much. More soil to dry back and not the root mass to use it up quickly. I like to have my plants in pots that are no more than 1" - 1 1/2" of space from both sides of the caudex and sides of the pot. This plant look to be in good shape. Rick