Better to vent furnace out wall or chimney?
hollan
13 years ago
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kalining
13 years agolenvt
13 years agoRelated Discussions
have any of you taken out your furnace vent pipe?
Comments (3)thanks mr.havac & zl700 ~~ hadn't thought about the water heater ~ i now have it on my *list* i didn't know the name of the furnace i was thinking about was called a *high efficiency 90 plus* ~~ i put that into google & studied a million or so pages - or so it seemed! ~~ the furnace we have now is gas & is ancient ~~should have died long ago, but it just keeps on keeping on despite our cold chicago winters ~~ thanks, phyl...See MoreSmell from heating vents / also gas furnace closet not vented....
Comments (3)"The closet the gas furnace is in, is not ventilated. The closet does not have a roof, but opens up into the attic. He does not think there is enough fresh air making it down to the furnace, and he does not think the fumes from the furnace are making it up into the attic." the closet is actually very well vented if it is open to the attic at the ceiling (roof?) of the closet. "He has instructed us to nail some gutter pipe (gutter pipe, because it is square, and will fit the limited space better than round pipe, but to mee gutter pipe seems awfully small diameter) into the closet to increase circulation. One peice going 12 inches into the attic, and another peice 12 inches off the floor. To me this seems awfully suspicious, I cant see how this will work, and I'm scared." I usually install a ceiling in gas furnace closets using ductboard (doesnt burn) from inside the attic. Usually a 5 or 6" vent pipe from inside attic..12" above insulation with a bug screen. the pipe goes thru ductboard ceiling to where the air intake of the gas furnace is located. I've started putting an inline manual damper..open when furnace is in use..closed for cooling season. "He also noticed that someone has stapled fibergalss insulation to the inside of the closet door, and we should remove that. That the entire door needs to be replaced with a very tight fitting door." Someone was trying to overcome the temp transfer from top of heating closet being open to attic. Bat insulation is not a good idea..but ductboard works well. and door should be weatherstripped. while the venting will supply the air needed for the furnace, it won't vent fumes. there shouldn't be any fumes if furnace is operating properly..there are vent pipes attached to the equipment that vent out of the roof. as for the smell...it could have been a sealant that he used or many things. I would call the original person who did the install and tell him your concerns. Granted there are better materials to use but it sounds like he/she was on the right track. better to close in ceiling and make it air tight and bring fresh air to the furnace than to leave the ceiling open to the attic. just my experience here in hot humid La. it may vary if your area is different. best of luck....See Moreventing into a chimney vs. indirect venting
Comments (4)An 80 gallon water heater certainly sounds large. Enough for a very large family. Just as Brewbeer said, an indirect water heater is fed from your heating boiler. It has a temperature gauge, which operates just like your indoor thermostat with the boiler, a domestic water feed in & out and a pair of water lines coming from the boiler that are used to exchange heat with the drinking water in the tank. There's no venting. Modern high efficiency boilers, also called Condensing Boilers, are not suitable for use with brick chimneys. Their exhaust is condensing as it leaves the unit, which would eventually crumble a brick chimney. A moisture resistant stainless steel flue would be used, instead. The boilers are designed to capture condensate and dispose of it in a drain. One major advantage of a Direct Vent (aka Sealed Combustion) unit is that it draws no air from the home. The fresh air is piped in to the combustion chamber from outdoors and is then exhausted directly to the outdoors. A blower fan is used to create the draft. A naturally aspirating boiler, which uses an old fashioned chimney, essentially leaves an open hole in your house for the exhaust to casually make its way out. The draft continues in the winter whether the boiler is running or not. All this air is made up through ventilation coming into your home through all the cracks and crevices. If you use a naturally aspirating product, your local code may likely require that you have a large hole in the wall to supply make-up air for the boiler. A modern house is built so air-tight that an older boiler may have trouble, such as CO production. My boiler is vented outward through the roof and draws in its fresh air from the attic. It helps to keep our garage warmer just because it's not sending warm air up the flue from the indoors....See MoreVent hoods. Wood like cabinets or a stainless steel chimney vent hood
Comments (11)Heh! Yes, mattress is a very good example. This is why ca. 2007 I started reading up on kitchen ventilation so I could ignore the magic that was being asserted and determine for myself what was needed. In a hood, most of the effectiveness is embedded in the sheetmetal shapes and the blower motor and fan. I rarely hear of fan failures (I can only recall one on this forum). Broan absorbed NuTone that used to provide a lifetime guarantee. Wolf uses Broan. If the hood exterior is non-magnetic stainless steel, it shouldn't ever rust or develop surface staining. What tends to fail in lower quality hoods are fan and light switches. These hoods may have thinner sheet metal, but that is not a point of failure. It might have a relationship with rattles. Mean time to failure with electronics will typically decrease with increased parts count. So some risk of shorter lifetime may be present where fancy motor control circuits are in use. It is fine to go shopping and look at hoods from the point of view of ease of use or lighting or construction quality, or aesthetics of design, but nothing should be purchased until you have gone through the process of understanding what you need a hood system to do and what its parameters have to be to achieve it. Since modern higher performance residential hoods for pro-style cooking equipment derive their requirements from commercial cooking ventilation, you may wish to start by downloading and reading the first dozen or so pages of the Greenheck Guide: https://www.tagengineering.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf...See Morecountryboymo
13 years agogennut3
13 years agomike_home
13 years agokalining
13 years agoibilled_yahoo_com
13 years agoveesubotee
13 years agoJack Hazel
2 years agosktn77a
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoJohn Hazel
2 years agomike_home
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago
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