This recall is about users selecting the wrong cycle (Normal or Heavy Duty) when washing bulky or waterproof/resistant items such as bedding (comforters, mattress pads, bedspreads), shower curtains, sleeping bags, parkas, and the like. Every video I've seen on YouTube or news feeds covering an exploded washer that still has the load in it, the item(s) are as such. The explosion happens when the machine balances for spin, revs up to maximum 1,000 RPM (or whatever it may be), and the balance condition shifts due to sudden release of a pocket of retained water from the item. The manufacturer is cited as being at fault for not designing a safety system to stop the spin. Seriously ... there's NO WAY to INSTANTLY stop the mass of the washer drum and clothes load from spinning at 1,000 RPM (or higher in some cases). The electronics and sensors did their job for balancing the load at the start of spin. There's no way to anticipate that the balance conditions would change. The recall involves adding a security bracket to further secure the machine top, AND stickers that 1) relabel the cycles such that the Delicate cycle is designated for Bulky/Bedding, 2) warn that catastrophic damage may occur if the wrong cycle is used for such items, and 3) that waterproof items are not to be washed. Delicate runs a slower spin speed which serves to avoid the high g-forces and catastrophic explosion if balance conditions change after-the-fact at higher spin speeds.

I don't think Sshrivastava was talking about the hose configuration you mentioned on a post.. Posted by dave1812 (My Page) on Tue, Jan 17, 12 at 18:35 I warm up the COLD inlet water by using a wye adapter at the cold inlet, and a faucet and check valve, that bleeds in any amount of hot water that I want. It works great! You'll need to buy some more hoses, and two wyes, also. Besides that arrangement, I installed another wye at the HOT inlet, so that I can bleed off cold water sitting in the HOT water lines. For that you will need a wye at the hose bib on the wall, and a wye at the HOT inlet, a facet, and a METAL check valve (about $10 at Home Depot). Be sure the check valve is oriented properly and that it sits horizontally so that the slight back pressure of the cold water doesn't get past the check valve when the machine calls for hot water. I initially made the mistake of not taking that into account (the positioning of the check valve), so that all water in my home was cooled down by about 25 degrees until I quickly determined the problem, which was that I had the check valve pointing downward. Because the type of check valve I used has a hinged "gate", it has to be oriented properly or it won't seal off the slow flow of water in the reverse direction. I can now get very hot water for my washing. I have the hot water heater set to provide 150 degree water. http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/laundry/msg011203391073.html But what she is questioning is where you mention actually removing the top and adjusting a set screw.... Posted by dave1812 (My Page) on Sat, Mar 31, 12 at 2:24 of "too much of a good thing". As some of you know, there are Youtube videos that describe how to easily adjust the water level on a Samsung FL. the adjustment is done by turning a sensor adjustment screw clockwise to increase water level, or CC to decrease it. Some of the online videos go way overboard, by suggesting that 6 full turns is "necessary" to obtain a good water level. For grins, I decided to just how sensitive the pressure switch is to adjustments. Turns out that one to two full turns makes a big difference! I have found that my particular washer is a bit sloppy with it's water level--some loads have no extra water, while others have an adequate amount. I found that a bit more than 3 turns from factor gives a whopping amount of water--several inches up the door. Now here is the thing: in order to get good washing results, the clothes need to be "lifted" upwards during agitation. If you have the water level too high, the rotating drum will be unable to do anything but spin around the clothes sitting in a large puddle of water, with just the paddles passing under them. That is not going to give you a good wash, IMO. You want there to be "adequate" water, but not so much that the clothes can't be lifted/tumbled. I ended up setting the switch to 3/4 turn clockwise from factory. The water level almost reaches the front rim of the drum. Having the water an inch or two above the bottom of the door seal simply doesn't allow the clothes to be lifted up correctly. Having said all that, I don't recommend that anyone start monkeying around with the water level settings, but IF you decide to do that, I think you may be disappointed in the washing efficacy, and you'll certainly be using a LOT more water if you see water several inches above the bottom of the seal. More is not always better. It seems that Samsung chose a water level that gives it a great efficiency rating and decent cleaning prowess. Obviously such low water levels (Samsung's) aren't going to give maximum rinsing ability---everything is a trade-off. http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/laundry/msg0302245323076.html Posted by dave1812 (My Page) on Tue, Apr 10, 12 at 13:50 nerdy, it's really easy to adj the water level. remove two screws that hold the stainless top on. slide it aft, and off. looking at the unit from the front, you will notice a sensor at the right front corner that has a hose going to it. turn the screw (use the correct sized slotted head screwdriver) CLOCKWISE about 1/2 to 1 turn. DO NOT FOLLOW THE CRAZY VIDEOS ON YOUTUBE SUGGESTING YOU TURN IT SIX TURNS!!!!! Even 3 turns is too much. You don't want so much water that the clothes sit in a huge amount of water, because they won't wash properly. They need to be lifted by the fins on the drum. I know have a bit of "extra" water, besides what it takes to wet the clothes. Water level barely comes up to the bottom rim of the stainless drum. Don't go overboard!! http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/laundry/msg0222100626515.html

I too have recently purchased the 328's and love them. The they are in a main floor laundry room (wood subfloor with wood laminate flooring) and the washer is very quiet. The only time I hear it is when it is filling for the rinse cycle. Don't know why that is noisier than filling for the wash unless it is the sound of the water going thru a different compartment of the dispenser?? Its unbelievable how quiet it spins when its really revved up. Sometimes it will wobble slightly when its first starting to spin and then once it gets balanced and takes off - doesn't move at all. I don't think there is any cycle other than sanitize that will heat the water, but I don't understand why that would be an issue?? I mean, if you want the water that hot, why wouldn't you just choose that setting? I really like the dryer also. As far as the wrinkle release option, I think it heats for awhile then cools down. The refresh cycle I think just heats. The wrinkle prevent will intermittantly tumble on just air for 90 minutes after clothes are dry. I didn't see spending $300-400 more for the set for the steam option. We don't have alot of clothes that need to be dry-cleaned, so I don't think I would have used that option enough to warrant the cost. I have used the SilverCare option once. Just wanted to see if there's a difference in the way the clothes smell, but they smell fresh regardless of the option I use. I think SilverCare is great for scrubs that would be ruined if they were bleached but yet they need sanitized. I just forget to use that option :) Overall - thrilled with my purchase. We were replacing Maytag Neptunes purchased on '01, which are still fine (gave them to son and DIL) Never had a mold issue with them, so don't intend to have one with my new ones. I do leave the door open on my new Samsung washer so it can dry out. I didn't do that with my Neptunes because it had an interior light. Hope this helps in your decision making. I don't think you can go wrong with the Samsungs.

I spent over a thousand dollars on an HE TL and it was so awful I sold it for $100 less than two years later.. A couple of months later a friend called to tell me the lady who bought it and her daughter were taking their clothes to a neighbor's house to wash because the washer was not cleaning their clothes and they smelled and they didn't want to use it anymore because it was gross. Mind you when I sold it to them it did not smell and looked brand new so this was yet another new development. After research it is suspected the hot water intake valve had stopped functioning. I felt so bad that I offered to give her her money back. The machine was top of the line had a huge "looking" capacity but you couldn't use it to full capacity. Sometimes when I took clothes out they were not even wet all over. I did not overload the machine. It ruined many items of clothing and it destroyed sheets as if it hated them. It would tightly wrap clothes in a knot and then get out of balance. What a horrible machine. It caused me much financial setback and also many days of frustration dealing with this POJ. The matching dryer was loud and could be heard all over the house as if it had no insulation it also was top of the line companion to the washer and had the steam which was sort of a joke. I finally ended up buying a front load GE middle of the line that I had used in a condo while on vacation and loved it. It was so quiet and did such a good job. I rewashed everything in my suitcase that I had brought with me. My clothes seemed gross from using the top load machine, I never felt that anything was clean and maybe even dirtier since going through the TL wash. Not to mention they are loud sounding like an airplane engine spooling up and the water is coming in from the top of the machine of course and is a long way to the bottom so it sounded like water falling onto flat rocks in a cave when it was going through the machine. I still have bad memories of this awful machine and would not wish one on my worst enemy. It was the machine you first mentioned when considering a TL. Don't do it!!! In addition, don't fall for the extra large capacity. The larger the drum the more easily it will go out of balance. Think of spinning a small bowl on your finger as opposed to a great big one. I have the 3.5 capacity and only on occasion do I miss a larger capacity. The front loaders do take more time to do laundry, a fact of life with these new HE machines. The less water the longer it will take to do the job is the reason they are set up that way. I am really happy with this set and got it on sale at Home Depot, the washer and dryer for about $1100 including delivery and the extra stuff like hoses etc. WASHER GFWN1100L2WW GE DRYER DGFDN110ELOWW GE If you like this set, be aware that you will have to empty the detergent drawer of water after using for the day so it will empty a small bit of water left in the tray. Very easy but some people might not know this. It comes out easily and just dump it in sink. You probably don't have to do it but I do. There may be different model numbers now since my set is about two years old.