Hi Dave, Just curious as to what explanation the Samsung folks are offering? It doesn't seem like the techs have been able to diagnose the problem. What do YOU think is going on? with your machine?

hi. The problem with no Hot wash in Normal seems to be bad programming (ie, I suspect all FL520's suffer the same issue), but as far as the Pure Cycle no longer completing, due to a bogus fault that there is supposedly a water supply problem, that seems to be a highly unusual issue. No one has heard of this issue happening only in Pure Cycle. Logically, I can't imagine what would cause that cycle to fail, given that all three modules have been replaced, unless a replacement module has the same fault. Keep in mind that Pure Cycle used to work fine.

The techs aren't diagnosing the problem-- they come out to the house with parts that Samsung wants them to replace. I even went so far today, to remove the hoses and verify that the inlet screens are clear, which they are. water pressure is around 90 lbs and there IS PLENTY of water going into the washer--the techs remove the dispenser tray and we have both watched the water flow into the compartment with a lot of force and volume.

From your description, does sound like most likely pure control problem....as opposed to anything mechanical. You haven't reported strange sounds or mechanical stuff so I suspect the physical unit is probably ok.

It's a machine. It CAN be fixed. Seems to me the issue may be depth of knowledge of the repair folks....noodling out why the control modules aren't doing what they're supposed to do.....or if some other downstream component isn't responding to the signals being given....or their willingness or lack thereof to undertake time/dollars to get to the bottom of it.

You posted previously about modifying your plumbing to the machine. Do you think those modifications may be a component of the trouble?

Please do come back with outcome report.

PS to previous......just noticed this from your post........

90psi is getting up there for household supply. I have little doubt it's within operational range for the machine, but getting pushy for the overall household system. Suggest you might consider dialing it down a notch as a separate issue.

Folks over at the plumbing forum far more expert than I on the topic. I'm sensitive to it because I've had over-pressure problems in the past that caused considerable heartburn.. They were expensive.

the plumbing is back to "normal". :) plumbing never was an issue in relation to the problem with Pure Cycle

I'm waiting for the repair shop to call me back.

By profession, I was an auto tech. I never had anything I couldn't fix. :) so i agree, all machines are fixable. but my patience is worn out and it isn't my job to fix this unit.

just spoke with the repair shop. they are coming out this afternoon and the plan if for me to start the cycle about an hour before they arrive so they can see it fail.

For curiosity's sake you might try posting this on Fixya.com or the appliance guru site. It is free, unless you want to pay one of their tecs to answer, and it seems to be a great place to find answers to odd problems.

My BFF had some water supply issues with a just delivered Samsung FL a few months ago. The tech told her that SOP is to replace the boards. If that didn't work she was to call him back. It didn't work and the problem was that the drain hose was too far into the drain pipe. Did your tech offer any possible reasons for you issue?

sandy, the tech just arrived outside my house. I'll post the results of today's visit in a while. Pure Cycle is running at the moment and should fail within the next 20 or so minutes.

Samsung has no ideas at the moment

samsung is clueless. their suggestion is to not use oxiclean, as they THINK the problem is that there is too much suds for the purecycle to work to completion. that is SO bogus. there is about an inch to two inches MAX, of suds during the hot water cleaning portion of Pure Cycle.

there are actually fewer suds now than the first few months that I owned the unit, because we have cut down on the amount of detergent to about an ounce to 1.5 ounces. oxiclean amounts are also reduced.

suds level during normal operation is LESS than three inches for a small load. for a large load, there are hardly any suds.

no other cycle is affected by the "water supply problem--ensure water valve is open" error.

i forgot to mention that the tech was at the house for the last 40 minutes of the Pure Cycle and naturally, it didn't error out, which is a first, in the last 9 attempts.

Of course I don't know the ins and outs of Samsungs or how, exactly, suds would affect any particular function.....which is to say, I don't know if repair-guy's opinion has any veracity or not. However, I would regard 1-3 inches of suds using HE detergent in any FL as an indication of overdose.

Does your machine have a "clean machine" cycle or equivalent procedure? If so, I would suggest running one of those and examine amount of suds seen. Whatever seen will, of course, be un-rinsed residual. If there's an issue that way, I think it would be good to know about.

FWIW.....In my seven-year-old Duet with soft water, I use Tide HE powder and, sometimes, Oxyclean. I don't see suds at all other than a few bubbles on top. I get clean clothes -- at least cleaner than any other machine owned or used in the last four decades -- and good rinsing.

Basically, HE detergent shouldn't be generating suds. May I ask what you're using?

I have a bosch and I had a real problem with suds when I used oxyclean.
I can use ecover, the pure oxygen bleach just fine. I guess it was the washing soda in the oxyclean.
my water is 6-8 grains.

" It didn't work and the problem was that the drain hose was too far into the drain pipe."

Sandy, did pulling the hose out work to help your problem? Just curious as we have a new Samsung WF350ANW FL in our new addition in which I installed the 2" waste pipe on the high side (10" higher than the top of the machine). We have vibration problems as the spin cycle starts (washer walks a few inches) and the tech claimed this was the problem, not so. I cut the pipe back to level with the washer top and still had the vibe problems, also adjusted the hose to different depths within the pipe without success on the vibration and walking. A couple of tech visits later with adjustments to the leveling (which was already level) and it seems to be a bit better even though the level bubble isn't as precise as it was before, odd? Another odd thing is that the second tech placed rubber feet under each foot to reduce the vibes, not sure if that makes sense as others have said that these FLers work best on concrete floors (ours is 1st floor wood and it's level). So why would rubber feet help?

Dave I empathize with your problem but sorry have little to offer, that 90 psi does sound excessive but may not relate. Our pressure is 40/60 psi on well pump which delivers a strong enough stream for washing operation.

One note on Samsungs, the display models at Lowes are all made in Korea whereas the model we were delivered was made in Mexico, not sure if the specs are different?

vgkg - It wasn't my unit and the issue was that the machine wouldn't finish the cycle. The machine would stop and give a water inlet fault.

I am not at all understanding how excessive vibration could have anything to do with your pipes. I posted that because it seemed like there must be some known issue if Samsung's standard advice to techs is to replace the boards. In my friend's case it was a mechanical issue not electronic and simply shortening the drain hose fixed it.

Pure Cycle IS the clean cycle, asolo.

When washing clothes I usually see LESS than inch of suds. Much less. It was a direct Samsung employee who told the repair guy who was at my house yesterday (o0ver the phone), that I shouldn't use Oxiclean. WHAT A CROCK!

I'm looking into calling a lawyer that specializes in class action suits, including one against the washer mfgrs. Perhaps little details like how Samsung blatantly lies about features on the 520 that aren't actually on it, and my problems with getting my unit repaired, will resonate with their ongoing case.

Sorry about your grief with this. Nothing further to offer, except......

If you're really thinking about legal action, I would suggest careful consideration. I know you're pretty miffed about the whole thing right now. However, I can tell you the time, money, and aggravation entailed in taking legal action hoping for recovery -- compared with the cost of absorbing the failure and moving on -- seldom makes sense. Your machine cost less than a grand. A lawyer could bill you more than that after a single morning.

I wouldnt pay a lawyer. I just sent a detailed letter outlining three issues with the washer, to the fellow leading the class action suit against Samsung. Hopefully, it will be of SOME use.

the washer, even on sale, with sales tax, and extended warranty, cost roughly $1250, IIRC. I know how expensive lawyers are. :) Glad I didn't pay full retail for this thing. It washes well, but the issues with failed cycles and never getting hot water in the Normal Cycle is maddening.

Is the issue resolved as far as the repair man is concerned? Meaning, will he be returning? The cleaning cycle worked but is the heater supposed to kick on during the normal cycle? Is the Pure cycle still working?

the heater wont necessarily kick on, Sandy. the heater works only on Sanitary and to gradually warm up the cold water that begins the Stain Away cycle. Other cycles simply rely on metered water, based on the programming of the ATC. No one at samsung will admit to the problem on Normal.

However, because one of the boards that was installed recently has a bad switch (Pre Wash), the tech yesterday agreed to replace that board.

I'm stuck with the issue of no hot water during Normal, and a very iffy Pure Cycle. I am not a happy camper, because Samsung refuses to admit there are these two problems. They want to blame Oxiclean for one and they simply have no answer for the other.

FWIW....my Duet's "normal/casual" cycle does not activate the heater. It is one of the ATC-controlled cycles. When I use that cycle and select "hot", run the tap hot so that 130F water enters from the first drop, my "hot" wash temperature measures out at about 105F. If I want a hotter wash than that, I have to select one of three cycles that utilizes the heater.

I'm wondering if your Samsung's "normal" cycle is like my "normal/casual" cycle.

.....posted that before seeing your latest. Sorry.

Not that it will solve your issue but on my old LG we reversed the hot and cold lines. This gave me a pure hot wash when running cycles on cold/cold. My hot water wasn't all that hot unless I ran the nearest faucet. So, hot wash, warm rinse. Washing on warm still gave me warm.
My new machine uses the heater on all cycles and will wash at any temp from 85 to 205. I got really angry about the techniques required to get my LG to do what I purchased it to do. It is about time there was a class action regarding wash temps. I don't think it will be successful as somewhere in every manual I have read there is a way to explain why it isn't working. Water not 150 out of the tap perhaps? Stated only to reach the target temp within 10 degrees? Heater timed out because your water took too long to heat, etc. The biggest thing is that most people don't know that their washer isn't doing what they assume it is. My MIL told me her washer felt lukewarm on the hot setting because the glass on the door was so thick!

I'm now working with corporate of Pacific Sales. I've requested a replacement unit due to the number of failed attempts (pacific sales says that units may be replaced after three repairs for the same thing). I should know their answer in one to two days. wish me luck. tired of these problems!

I have my heater set to be hotter than 145 degrees. sometimes it measures over 150. it sits next to the washer. i have a valve next to the washer that I open for a few seconds, to purge the line right up to the washer inlet (thru the use of a wye and extra stainless braided hoses, at MY expense) of cold water, immediately prior to running a hot wash. I get PLENTY of HOT water in the Heavy Duty cycle. and only tepid (79 degrees) water in Normal.

local repair shop just scheduled another visit for tomorrow--but just to replace the board that has a bad pre-wash switch on it, which was caused by them recently replacing that board (it has the screen on it)

I assume there is a water level sensor. If there are too many suds, the sensor may not see that the machine is filling when it actually is, leading to the 'no water coming in' fault.

weedmeister: there are NOT many suds! I am aware of the sensor and issues with excessive suds.

Good Luck Dave! Hope they agree to replace your unit. I also use Ecover instead of Oxi. It's available at most health food stores and on-line. Generally only need about 1 T per load.

Neither washing soda or the peroxide cause suds. Clorox 2 does have surfactants. Oxyclean may foam once activated by heat but it would be a short process. The problem is during the Pure Cycle only.

Dave - seems like a while back you altered the water levels on the washer. How long after filling is the Pure Cycle error happening? Just wondering if the suds sensor is somehow being tripped by a higher water level? On my LG I could have the water level high on rinses but it would trip the drain feature if I played with the wash cycle water levels. Almost like the oversuds feature disabled during rinse cycles.

Do you add anything when running the Pure Cycle?

the water level is the same as it was when I got it.

i don't add anything to pure cycle except bleach ONCE, several months back. the problem is not me; it's a fault in the washer that wasn't present for the first few months.

samsung is at a loss and I am working with the store's corporate department to get this POS replaced...

a tech replaced the front control panel/board. ran pure cycle to completion after the installation. keep in mind another similar board was installed last week. now i have eight failed Pure cycles and two successful. go figure. and they left we with a dented stainless top plate which i will take up with samsung soon.

Have you seen the new Samsung 457 washer/dryer? Has the touch screen and washer has "Speedspray technology"? Just saw this today for the first time.

"I am not at all understanding how excessive vibration could have anything to do with your pipes."

Hi Sandy, it was the 2" waste drain pipe that the tech guy thought was too high, it was 12" higher than the top of the machine. His thinking was that being that high that the washer pump wasn't able to fully pump out all the waste water and that it resulted in waste water backing up into the drum thereby throwing off the drum's balance during the spin cycle. I thought it was lame too and lowering the waste pipe by 12" didn't help anyways.

yes, vgkg, the tech's comment about the drain height throwing off spin balance is on a par with the comment by Samsung tech to my repair guy that I shouldn't ever use Oxyclean. what a moron. oxyclean has ZIP to do with the many failed Pure Cycles I've experienced. i never have more than about an inch of suds during pure cycle. wash cycles have between no suds and under an inch. samsung must be hiring the worst of the worst or they are training them all to blame the customer instead of wanting to properly fix the products.

glad i didn't have this much trouble with repairs to my Samsung 61" DLP...oh wait, I fixed it myself recently--it had a dead red LED module. it was actually kinda fun to dig into the guts of the TV and replace the offending part. I had to stand there for a while figuring out just how to remove the bad LED module, but I did...

I have a two year old Samsung FL and the only cycle that the on board heater works on is Sanitary. I have read posts about this FL that said the hot water setting dilutes the hot water with a bit of cold. In fact, someone posted a way to use Ys and valves to let the user put hot water into the cold line during the wash cycle, then switch to normal operation. It sounds like you want pure hot and I don't think you will get the machine to do that. The Sanitary cycle runs about 2 hours to give time for the on-board heater to get the water to 150 degrees even though my hot water is set to 150 degrees at the tank.

@ dave1812

Didn't you start a thread about how you physically modified your Samsung machine to provide you with higher water levels? Do you think that making your own hardware modifications may be causing your issues? Did you inform your technician as well as Samsung of the modifications you made so that they could factor that into the diagnosis of your problem?

the warm water I had going into the cold inlet is not a causal factor, sshrivatava. the washer worked fine for many months, AND the Pure Cycle is once again working (go figure). Having said that, keep in mind that they just replaced, for the second time, the control module. Don't get hung up thinking that warmer-than-normal cold-water inlet temp has an detrimental effect on the operation of the washer. it doesn't.

I don't think Sshrivastava was talking about the hose configuration you mentioned on a post..

Posted by dave1812 (My Page) on
Tue, Jan 17, 12 at 18:35

I warm up the COLD inlet water by using a wye adapter at the cold inlet, and a faucet and check valve, that bleeds in any amount of hot water that I want. It works great! You'll need to buy some more hoses, and two wyes, also.

Besides that arrangement, I installed another wye at the HOT inlet, so that I can bleed off cold water sitting in the HOT water lines. For that you will need a wye at the hose bib on the wall, and a wye at the HOT inlet, a facet, and a METAL check valve (about $10 at Home Depot). Be sure the check valve is oriented properly and that it sits horizontally so that the slight back pressure of the cold water doesn't get past the check valve when the machine calls for hot water. I initially made the mistake of not taking that into account (the positioning of the check valve), so that all water in my home was cooled down by about 25 degrees until I quickly determined the problem, which was that I had the check valve pointing downward. Because the type of check valve I used has a hinged "gate", it has to be oriented properly or it won't seal off the slow flow of water in the reverse direction.

I can now get very hot water for my washing. I have the hot water heater set to provide 150 degree water.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/laundry/msg011203391073.html

But what she is questioning is where you mention actually removing the top and adjusting a set screw....

Posted by dave1812 (My Page) on
Sat, Mar 31, 12 at 2:24

of "too much of a good thing". As some of you know, there are Youtube videos that describe how to easily adjust the water level on a Samsung FL. the adjustment is done by turning a sensor adjustment screw clockwise to increase water level, or CC to decrease it. Some of the online videos go way overboard, by suggesting that 6 full turns is "necessary" to obtain a good water level. For grins, I decided to just how sensitive the pressure switch is to adjustments. Turns out that one to two full turns makes a big difference! I have found that my particular washer is a bit sloppy with it's water level--some loads have no extra water, while others have an adequate amount. I found that a bit more than 3 turns from factor gives a whopping amount of water--several inches up the door.

Now here is the thing: in order to get good washing results, the clothes need to be "lifted" upwards during agitation. If you have the water level too high, the rotating drum will be unable to do anything but spin around the clothes sitting in a large puddle of water, with just the paddles passing under them. That is not going to give you a good wash, IMO. You want there to be "adequate" water, but not so much that the clothes can't be lifted/tumbled. I ended up setting the switch to 3/4 turn clockwise from factory. The water level almost reaches the front rim of the drum. Having the water an inch or two above the bottom of the door seal simply doesn't allow the clothes to be lifted up correctly.

Having said all that, I don't recommend that anyone start monkeying around with the water level settings, but IF you decide to do that, I think you may be disappointed in the washing efficacy, and you'll certainly be using a LOT more water if you see water several inches above the bottom of the seal. More is not always better. It seems that Samsung chose a water level that gives it a great efficiency rating and decent cleaning prowess. Obviously such low water levels (Samsung's) aren't going to give maximum rinsing ability---everything is a trade-off.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/laundry/msg0302245323076.html

Posted by dave1812 (My Page) on
Tue, Apr 10, 12 at 13:50

nerdy, it's really easy to adj the water level. remove two screws that hold the stainless top on. slide it aft, and off. looking at the unit from the front, you will notice a sensor at the right front corner that has a hose going to it. turn the screw (use the correct sized slotted head screwdriver) CLOCKWISE about 1/2 to 1 turn. DO NOT FOLLOW THE CRAZY VIDEOS ON YOUTUBE SUGGESTING YOU TURN IT SIX TURNS!!!!! Even 3 turns is too much. You don't want so much water that the clothes sit in a huge amount of water, because they won't wash properly. They need to be lifted by the fins on the drum. I know have a bit of "extra" water, besides what it takes to wet the clothes. Water level barely comes up to the bottom rim of the stainless drum. Don't go overboard!!

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/laundry/msg0222100626515.html

You are barking up the wrong tree reread my recent replies

there is more variation in water levels between various loads, than there is between the original setting and the .6 of a turn that the switch is set to now.