Do you have an overhang for dining/stools on the far side of your peninsula? Depending on code, it might be possible to put the outlet under the overhang, but close to the corner. That could help hide it a bit in comparison to the end panel. Of course ours are going to be on the end panels. I've decided to be zen about the whole thing.

In our state, it can't be under an overhang and count- so you may want to check code...
option 1- blend the outlet color with cabinet color (so if you have a dark brown, use dark brown plugs and cover?)
option 2- I was able to make the case that I didn't want an electrical outlet at the end of one of my islands due to safety.... The kids would potential pull anything off if I plugged anything there, or put a pen/pencil in it and get shocked. I just had to sign the permit that it was a safety issue, and sign/date it. (BTW, the inspector agreed with me!)

We have a peninsula and didn't put in any outlets. The electrical inspector advised it was in code and had to be on an end or under the overhang. I was so happy with the panelling work that was done that I was heartbroken to even think about cutting a piece out.

In the end, our electrician spoke to the inspector and it was signed off with a notation on the permit that there is no outlet on the island. Done.

We have an outlet on the wall at the start of the peninsula and it did not make sense to any of us that an outlet should be on the end where someone walking by could catch an electrical cord. Our peninsula is about 5' long.

Good luck.

jakabedy, I think I may have to be zen about it too - good attitude. :-)

I don't have an eating overhang and I was going to put it on that far side anyway. I really need electric there since the peninsula is my main prep area.
I think I'll have to just suck it up and put it on the end.. The matching outlet cover would help some.

I don't think silletes are code where I am, but I think these would be a better option if they were. http://www.sillites.com/

found this other thread too:

Here is a link that might be useful: outlet on peninsula

How about a Mockett, which is an electrical outlet that pops up from the surface of your island counter? I think igloochic has one so you could ask her if she likes the one she ordered. Check them out at www.mockett.com. You could drill the hole for the outlet so that it will fit between the back of a drawer and the cabinet for the drawer. When not in use, the outlet slides down below the counter surface so it's not visible.

There is also a device called a Sillite (www.sillite.com) that is now available in "tamper resistant" style as required by the 2008 National Electrical Code. These provide a circular look, protrude only slightly, and are UL rated to perform as a combination electrical box and receptacle. You just need to find a place where a 1.75-inch diameter hole can be drilled and electrical cable can be run to. I think white and black are the only colors available, although the snap-on covers can be painted.

kas

We have an outlet at the end of our peninsula, right at the top, so the granite will slightly overhang it. We also have one at the bottom of the outside of our peninsula. I was worried that they would spoil the look, but it looks fine. This is after all a kitchen, and a 'working room'. IMO the more outlets the better.

Something I learned here about sillites is that they are 15 amp outlets. Some kitchen circuits require 20 amps. The sillites can be wired to meet GFCI requirements.

There's always the option of an outlet cover matched to the island cabinet material for when the outlet's not in use. See the photo of segbrown's island (pics of her v. appealing remodel posted within the last month).

Here's the image. There's a pic on the original thread of the island with outlet covered (link below).

Here is a link that might be useful: Thread with segbrown's redo

Re: Sillites rated ampacity

The requirement for 20-A circuits determines the ampacity of the cabling and of the protective device. Both 15A and 20A receptacles can be used on a 20A circuit. See NEC (NFPA 70 2008) Table 210.21(B)(3).

Individual loads at these receptacles cannot exceed 12A for 15A receptacles or 16A for 20A receptacles per Table 210.21(B)(2).

If the island receptacle is the only receptacle on a 20A circuit, then the receptacle has to be rated at 20A. Just put another receptacle somewhere on this circuit and a Sillite can be used.

Generally, one wants to use a lot of receptacles to ease connection of small appliances without resorting to extension cords. More than the minimum two 20A countertop circuits are a good idea, if the area to be covered is extensive. Other circuits should be added if possible for refrigerators, garbage disposers, microwave ovens, hood fans, lights, etc.

I cannot recommend too highly the NEC 2008 Handbook to use for planning. It combines the entire National Electrical Code with explanatory material and graphics.

kas

To make an outlet less noticable, place it horizontally instead of vertically. Use the outlet that most resembles your cabinet color. They come in LOTs more colors than just ivory, brown, and white. Special order is worth it for this! For the cover plate, use the clear ones designed to accept paint or wallpaper and paint them the cabinet color or take a color copy of one of your doors to use as "wallpaper" for the cover.

Appreciate the info on options for blending in outlets, live wire oak. I'm astonished at the glaring outlets I see in photos of backsplashes and islands from remodels where many tens and in some cases hundreds of thousands of dollars have been spent. Some of these are in portfolio pics of big-time designers, and that astonishes me even more. I began to wonder if there just might not be many good alternatives, but found that hard to believe...