Besides from the Normal (moisture sensing) cycle not working on a 100% synthetic load of gym clothes....Every other load (shirts, pants, shorts, towels, sheets, table cloths, napkins, jackets, etc...) come out flawlessly using Normal (moisture sensing). Does it annoy me that I have to use 45 Min Warm + gentle to dry synthetics? Yeah, a little. But, I think it is similar to the Miele washing machine quirks...Pre-Wash is labeled Heavy Wash, No soak option, after a cycle is complete, the drum does not tumble to "un-stick" clothes that are literally plastered to the stainless drum after a 1400rpm spin cycle, Cannot activate the drum light during a cycle, etc. etc.. My washer and dryer though, IMO, perform better than ANY OTHER make or model. As we know, or should know!!!, nothing is perfect. If Miele hadn't sent a Technician out, I would be very worried and upset, but since I was with the Tech the entire time during service...everything checked out. If this is a specific "problem/issue" with my T9802...then I'm just gonna have to deal with it, because I love this dryer!!! ;)

Been there, done that...lint is such a HUGE annoyance to my life. We're in a 2nd floor condo where the dryer vent ducting goes to the roof through the attic over 20 feet and several elbows. My husband bought the condo years before we met, and the ducting was clogged after several years. At the time, he decided to disconnect the vent from the duct. The resulting moisture did some damage to the cabinetry (swelling of the particle board, even under layers of oil-based paint). Soon after we married, he decided we needed to fix the problem correctly. He went up into the attic and disassembled the ducting, brought it outside, and blew it out with his air compressor. I pushed some cleaning tool through it as well. We can't be doing this regularly! I mean preferably, never again! So, I had him put a filter -- a gallon paint strainer -- over the dryer vent where it connects to the machine. This clogs every month or so, we pull the machine out, disconnect the vent, clean the strainer, and put it back. This is still an annoying chore, but not the nightmare of dealing with the whole duct run. My husband had a cool idea, that what we need to do is sew a new, longer strainer that tapers to a skinny point, so that even when it clogs at the point, there can still be air flowing past the clogged strainer, and we should be able to go longer between cleanings. We got a new dryer last summer, and pulled the ducting out of the attic to clean it -- but it was already clean as a whistle. So, our secondary filter system has kept the duct run clean for 9 years. I found you can buy secondary lint traps with a door that opens to clean them out, but we don't have room to install the box in our laundry room, and I don't think it would work any better or be easier to clean than our homemade filter. When I redo the floor, I plan to put magic slider thingies under the dryer feet to make it easier to move in and out, plus I won't want to gouge my new floor. I have researched other solutions. People claim that solid metal vent will maintain better airflow than pleated, but I think it will still clog because we need 2 90-degree elbows to get it connected to the duct in the wall. And if it clogs, how do we pull out the machine with a non-stretching vent? If we could move the duct in the wall to match the dryer vent outlet, that would eliminate 2 elbows and would probably help... I also found you can install a secondary fan in the ducting near the exit, increasing the airspeed in long ducts so the lint won't clog. They cost $150-200, but if I never had to clean out the duct run or pull out the dryer to clean my makeshift secondary lint trap ever again, it would be well worth it. I also think that our ducting is leaky somewhere, because rooms on the other side of the wall (our master bath) get crusted with lint all the time. Finding and sealing those leaks would probably improve airspeed some, plus save me tons of work cleaning the lint all the time. I think the additional fan is the way to go. In 2 other areas where we replaced an ineffective low-cfm cheap fan with a high-cfm good one, like the hood over our cooktop, it made an amazing difference, night and day. Here is a link that might be useful: example of dryer duct fan

Thanks all for posting. I have stalled out on the remodel but will be back in action this next week when my carpenter can start. I have a new carpenter coming to appraise the progress of the job and start next week. Long story, but this new carpenter is actually the one I wanted originally but not unavailable so went with someone else (who didn't work out). Here is a plan view as asked for, and an elevation. The two walls that create the corner where the W/D sit are both load bearing walls. The blue square in upper left corner is the Miele W/D stack. The gray square to the right of W/D is the cabinetry and where I plan to access the shut off valve and dryer venting. These utilities will be in the back wall accessible through the shelving inside the cabinet: This elevation shows cabinets to the right of the W/D and will have the shut off valve inside the cabinet, reachable through the shelving. This elevation rendition is not current. Instead, I plan to have doors above counter height, and have the below counter area open, without a door: Shut off Valve: I have a manual shut off valve with the drain hole (all in one box) mounted by the plumber. This will be easily accessible from the side of the set, inside the cabinet. Hoses: I have the Floodchek hoses on site and ready for installation. Overflow Pan: I was thinking of a overflow pan such as this one I have linked below. It has a 5 gal capacity and has a 24x24 outside dimension. Anti-Vibration: I still have not made a platform for the set but was thinking of 2 plywood 3/4" sheets with a sandwiched mass loaded vinyl sheet in between as recommended by Mongoct on the bathroom forum. Otherwise the anti-vibration feet that Deke mentions might work and a lot less trouble. I have see some anti-vibration feet on the Grainger web site for heavy machinery. I might try those. Here is a link: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ecatalog/K-16/N-/No-0/Ntt-anti+vibration+pads?Ndr=textsearchesinbase%2Btrue&sst=subset Dryer Venting: I have been planning to bring it out the right side of the set, and accessible in the back of the cabinet, for cleaning ease. I may not be able to place it in the wall as the studs are in the way of the joist space for the ducting. If I can have the carpenter frame out the stud wall for a dryer vent I will. I want ridged venting, and have it accessible to the side of the dryer (not behind the dryer). If this can't be done within the wall space, I will have to put a hole in the floor in front of the wall for the venting, concealing it behind the cabinet. though this will make it vulnerable to bumping with the laundry basket that I plan to keep in the lower area below the counter. My machines are at the warehouse waiting. Any comments or recommendations are welcome! Thanks again :) Here is a link that might be useful: slide-n-fold pan

"I am also doing the unthinkable... I'm going to follow the technician's advice and use no more than 2 TBSP of detergent per full load. " Well, it's worth a try. Your laundry won't come out as strongly perfumed, but that, too, will become the new normal. It's all relative, and what we're accustomed to. When he posted on the CR forums, John Shipkowski always said: 2 Tablespoons of regular HE 1 Tbsp of 2x HE 1 tsp. of 3x HE detergent was all a person needed. He seemed to have a lot of experience repairing and looking inside FL washers. The only variables not discussed with his dosing recommendations were: 1.) the size/capacity of the drum and 2.) liquid or powder. It is possible I missed that in my research. His suggested amounts work for me with a 1/2 to 2/3 full drum. Those amounts are pretty close to what I'm now using. I always look at a particular product's dosing, and pro-rate up or down, based on size of load and judging how dirty the clothes are.