"Miele W1, Miele Little Giants or Miele Professional will all provide proper heating of the water to the temp selected. No need to set house common water heater to an unsafe temperature." Miele has temp options Cold tap, 85, 105, 120, 140, and sanitary 170. Very customizable, and heater wastes no time going to work. Most machines you have no idea what the temps are at all period. If a huge drum which most do not even utilize is not important to you, Miele is the bomb. It will hold as much as a full size top loader.

Is the model MAV6451AWW? The MAV models are what's sometimes called a "Norgetag" (and also referred to as "Herrin" machines, being built in Herrin, IL) ... meaning it's not the tried-and-true Maytag design of old, but a different mechanical design that Maytag obtained from purchase of the Norge/Magic Chef product line (from Goodman Industries, as I recall). These machines are known for several trouble areas, including failure of the tub seal ... although it's not necessarily a given as some of them do run for some years without a problem developing. You say the machine's progress hangs and it overfills at the rinse phase. That'd normally indicate a problem with the water level control, but a bad water level switch would/should also cause overfilling at the beginning wash phase. The timer can also go flaky and cause such behavior, and you also say that manually advancing the timer at rinse continues the cycle normally, so that's a clue pointing to the timer. You can get a timer from several online sources ... searspartsdirect.com, partselect.com, repairclinic.com, and others. Some of those sites will also have parts/assembly diagrams. Check prices at several sources. One source lists just one timer, but a couple sources list two timers for your model depending on what is the revision series of the machine. The model tag will either directly state a series or revision number, or the beginning digits of the serial number indicate the series. Series 21 if the serial is 21 or higher ... or Series 12 if the serial is less than 21.

It is the intention of a drain rod to do two things: ream the pipe wall and promote the normal flow of waste to the sewer (aided by water.) As such, the direction of work would always be from the fixtures outward. Again, this is about, technique (technical.) It canÂt be suggested that you actually do it, because of the fact that the receptor is not an acceptable sewage treatment system. Running sanitary waste to an open drain is wrong regardless whether it was caught by inspection or not. In an earlier time, it was often allowed to run a septic line from a building to a Ânatural drain. Today we call that "the Proverbial Creek." To my knowledge that is no longer lawful. But that does not mean that all the old systems have been upgraded. As such, it is equally wrong to use either caustic or biochemical remedies. I am just enough of a free spirit to violate some code restrictions for the practical benefit. This is too far outside the codes, because it represents a clear and present danger to people who may not be otherwise protected. A washing machine can be expected to carry some organic waste including fecal material. While it is not the same degree of hazard as a toilet, it is properly disposed only in a sanitary drain. That is why my continuing advice, FWIW, is to repair the drain with a suitable change in the handling of the waste, instead of trying to make Âplumbing out of something that isnÂt. Pinoke

My house is 1300 sq feet, one story, The pipe from the washer would be a straight line from the washer through the kitchen to the two bathrooms. We have sewers. Why am I just now hearing it, I've lived here 46 years?